FS Parts: Major Havoc PCB fully working $1200 shipped

Xyla

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As the title says, I have a Major Havoc PCB for sale. It is 100% working perfectly. It is the conversion version, so you will need an adaptor (not included) to use in a Tempest or Space Duel cabinet... unless of course you want to un-jumper it.

The board is in great shape, although it has some sharpie scribbles at the bottom for some reason, and has a small chip off one of the bottom corners (both things visible in the photo). Also it has a real Quad Pokey chip, not a Quad Pokey Eliminator board.

$1550 shipped via regular Paypal purchase... I do not ask for gift payments or to have my fees covered. I will also guarantee this board for 30 days... if you have any problems with it you can return for a full refund.

Thanks!
 

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Drool... super nice. And great price. Awesome seller. Buy with confidence, wish I had a cabinet for this.
 
This is still available, and I need cash right now... So I'm doing a huge price drop...

$1200 shipped.

After today this PCB will be on eBay.
 
FYI you can run that in a dedicated Havoc cab without removing the jumpers. They run to unpopulated pins & don't disturb the ones the dedicated harness uses.
 
Acetone will remove the Sharpie and not harm the PCB. GLWTS.


+1 to this. Goof Off works just as well also (as it's mostly acetone), but you can get 100% acetone in the nail polish aisle at Walmart for a few bucks. I use this all the time to remove sharpie from boards (and oddly it doesn't seem to remove the factory hand-written sharpie used to number the boards, but will work on anything written after that).

I apply it with a q-tip, where I just wet the q-tip with a few drops, then rub in circles on the PCB. Repeat a few times with fresh q-tips until the q-tip stays clean, and most of it will come off, without soaking the PCB.
 
Whoops! I've seen sharpie on Havoc conversion PCBs enough times that I'm pretty sure they came that way from the factory. So either those were factory or maybe someone scribbled over the factory markings.

Your board just lost half its value.
 
Because what you said is so ridiculous, I'm going to assume it was a joke. But if not, let me know and on the next MH conversion board I sell, I will add sharpie scribbles to double its value.

Whoops! I've seen sharpie on Havoc conversion PCBs enough times that I'm pretty sure they came that way from the factory. So either those were factory or maybe someone scribbled over the factory markings.

Your board just lost half its value.
 
I like this part of the auction:

-I guarantee this board to arrive working 100%, so if you have any problems with it at all send it back within 14 days for a full refund.-

That is exactly how I used to sell things on ebay (14 days to return no questions asked), including a half dozen or so MH boards. Only had maybe 2 items returned out of hundreds (paranoid buyer in Canada who thought a pacman board was dirtier than in the pictures, whatever just send it back no probs, even then he thought he was somehow going to get ripped off, doh, and a 6100 monitor that was a hot mess to begin with, was described accurately, buyer just wasn't happy with it). Its a good way to do it and very fair for buyers. Guaranteeing like that gets good bidding too. Well done!
 
Because what you said is so ridiculous, I'm going to assume it was a joke. But if not, let me know and on the next MH conversion board I sell, I will add sharpie scribbles to double its value.

The part about losing half its value is a joke. The part about conversion Havoc PCBs having marker on them from the factory isn't.
 
The part about losing half its value is a joke. The part about conversion Havoc PCBs having marker on them from the factory isn't.

Glad to hear it was, in fact, a joke.

That said, I've owned 5 conversion Major Havoc boards and this was the only one that had sharpie on it.
 
+1 to this. Goof Off works just as well also (as it's mostly acetone), but you can get 100% acetone in the nail polish aisle at Walmart for a few bucks. I use this all the time to remove sharpie from boards (and oddly it doesn't seem to remove the factory hand-written sharpie used to number the boards, but will work on anything written after that).

I apply it with a q-tip, where I just wet the q-tip with a few drops, then rub in circles on the PCB. Repeat a few times with fresh q-tips until the q-tip stays clean, and most of it will come off, without soaking the PCB.
Isopropyl Alcohol is the safest thing for removing permanent marker (and ball point pen). Goof Off is scary stuff IMO, both in terms of the MSDS and it's ability to quickly ruin surfaces.
 
Isopropyl Alcohol is the safest thing for removing permanent marker (and ball point pen). Goof Off is scary stuff IMO, both in terms of the MSDS and it's ability to quickly ruin surfaces.

My Experience has been that Goof Off somehow won't attack the inks on Atari cabinets and will removes scuffs, etc. crystal Castles, SD, Tempest, etc. please don't do this without careful testing though.
 
Isopropyl Alcohol is the safest thing for removing permanent marker (and ball point pen). Goof Off is scary stuff IMO, both in terms of the MSDS and it's ability to quickly ruin surfaces.



Goof Off is mostly Acetone (according to the MSDS), <10% xylene, <5% ethylbenzene, and <5% methanol (wood alcohol). Per the MSDS, only ethylbenzene is an animal carcinogen, and 'possibly carcinogenic to humans'. Everything else is classified as N/A.

I looked into this because I do board repairs every day, so it's a little more significant than occasional use. I wasn't freaked out by what I found, but I did try switching to 100% acetone instead, and found it works just as well as Goof Off. (Plus it's cheaper.)

I've tried isopropyl too, and find it's less aggressive, which for me translates into time. Working on a lot of boards, I prefer the acetone. I also use Q-tips for everything, which decreases the amount you need to use, and it's always pinpointed to where it needs to go. (And they work nicely for scrubbing flux out of nooks and crannies between pins, etc).

Acetone is aggressive stuff, and does melt some plastics. But I haven't had any issues with it melting any electronic components, or plastics that any components are made of (e.g, pots, etc). And I've tested it on everything I use.

I do find it interesting how it doesn't seem to dissolve the factory sharpie Atari used on their boards. I don't know if it's because it's just so old (I suspect not, but that's just a hunch), or if it's specifically a kind of ink which is impervious (which I think would be more likely).

If you think about it, if you're marking boards like Atari was, you sort of want something that can't be removed, for legal/practical purposes, etc. It wouldn't surprise me if an electronics-grade pen was made for this purpose.
 
...it doesn't seem to dissolve the factory sharpie Atari used on their boards. I don't know if it's because it's just so old (I suspect not, but that's just a hunch), or if it's specifically a kind of ink which is impervious (which I think would be more likely).

They used NVINK.
 
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