M5000 Yoke Wiring Question

MonsterBash

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Does anyone have a m5000 that they could snap a pic of the 4 wires going to the yoke? I'm having an issue with a SID and a couple people suggested here it's probably a yoke wiring issue. I can tell someone took the tube out (the cut the anode wire) so I guessing they didn't hook the Red, Green, Black and yellow wires but up properly.

I've look at the schematics in the manual and all they say is 'to yoke'.

Thanks!
 
Doesn't the yoke have color markings on it to match the wire color that should go there? Most of the B&W's I see have that on the yoke...
 
The yolks usually have a color corresponding dot next to the connectors do you see them on yours?



I should have refreshed before I hit submit. Modessitt beat me to it



Does anyone have a m5000 that they could snap a pic of the 4 wires going to the yoke? I'm having an issue with a SID and a couple people suggested here it's probably a yoke wiring issue. I can tell someone took the tube out (the cut the anode wire) so I guessing they didn't hook the Red, Green, Black and yellow wires but up properly.

I've look at the schematics in the manual and all they say is 'to yoke'.

Thanks!
 
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It looks like the yoke was nicely cleaned...

I only have the red marking left.

On the RED side there are 2 spade connectors that line up with the red marking...What I would call the inside and out side connector. Does it matter which one? I can't quite get my fat head in there...I'll probably pull the tube this weekend

I'm fighting a Horizontal collapse...from what I've read and been told here if I have HV (which I do..measured at 73V and the 'squeal') it's probably a connection problem to the yoke.

I capped the board and reflowed a bunch of stuff including all the wires
 
You can use your meter to check which windings are which. There are two distinct windings in the yoke, and they are both separate from each other. The horizontal winding should have a much lower resistance than the vertical winding. The horizontal wires on the chassis should be red and black.

Another thing to check is the width coil or the horizontal linearity coil on the chassis, if one of those is broken or has a bad solder joint, you could lose horizontal deflection without losing the HV.

-Ian
 
Does anyone have a m5000 that they could snap a pic of the 4 wires going to the yoke?

IMG_0307.jpg

IMG_0309.jpg

IMG_0313.jpg

IMG_0317.jpg

IMG_0318.jpg
 
Thanks!

So it does look like I have the wiring correct. The horizontal coil looks to be good I did have some burnt trace issues on the bottom of the board. The one solder pad was lifted but..it looked like it was just an anchor as it didn't have a trace attached to it

Anyone know what the item is to the left of the horizontal width coil is? About an inch tall and about 3/4 in diameter..that also had some burnt trace issues.

Gonna comb through the schematics now
 
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So I OHMed out the yoke horizontal on the yoke and it was 2.5 which seems good.

The width coil has continuity at both sides of the coil.

I think the problem is in a small coil next to it. It looks like another coil with 2 wires coming out either side..those wires are then solder through the board. I have no continuity between the wires...I'm assuming I should. Is that another coil of some kind and are they available for purchase?

I'm half tempted to take it apart to see what it looks like

In the second pic you can see the small groves in the left and right side...coming out of each of those is a small copper wire that go to the board

Edit:

So tracing the back of the board the circuit comes out of the width coil...into the mystery coil..through the mystery coil...and continues to the red yoke wire. Me thinking this thing is bad
 

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That's the horizontal linearity coil. Unfortunately, the manual really doesn't give a value for it. You should get some kind of reading between the two connection points. It's a fixed inductor of some value.

I don't know of a source, but the manual just calls it by the Motorola part number - 24D25248A14. Unfortunately, no other designation or values printed that I can find.

Perhaps someone else has more information on this part? You might be able to track one down off a parts chassis. Or, if someone has a good monitor, and an inductance meter, they should be able to determine the value in microhenries - you might be able to get something close. I don't know how value critical that part is in this monitor.

If you can figure out what gauge and how many turns of wire, you should be able to re-wind it...

-Ian
 
Well I took the coil apart and found a coil busted...fortunately I only had to unwrap it twice.

I ran a couple jumper traces to repair the smoked ones...

And looky what we have here....

I'm still gonna try to hunt down a new one

Thanks for all the help guys...I gonna blast some invaders!
 

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Tell me about that..

When I moved last March EVERY I owned was busted...some before the move...some the results of the move. The best I had was getting a couple game in on Robotron before it rebooted. I barely knew which end of a soldering iron to hold on too (although I did learn that one pretty quick).

Fast fwd a year and now I pretty much buy broken games exclusively as that's what the budget allows....obviously without the KLOV this wouldn't be possible

It probably helps that I'm a stubborn fuck and refuse to let the game win =).

Next up...Sea Wolf!



Very cool Jamie, glad to see so many machines getting repaired so quickly with the help of others here.
 

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