M.A.C.H 3 issue.

solo742

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My Mach 3 has been working fine, and then tonight I turned it on and got the following screen:

Disk Initialization

1. Stop Disk
2. Start Disk
3. Seek Frame

And that is it. I waited a few minutes and still the same. I turned off the power for several minutes and tried again. Same screen.

Please let me know if anyone has seen this and knows what to do to correct it. I wanted some guidance before messing around in back.

Thank you for any help.
 
My Mach 3 has been working fine, and then tonight I turned it on and got the following screen:

Disk Initialization

1. Stop Disk
2. Start Disk
3. Seek Frame

And that is it. I waited a few minutes and still the same. I turned off the power for several minutes and tried again. Same screen.

Please let me know if anyone has seen this and knows what to do to correct it. I wanted some guidance before messing around in back.

Thank you for any help.
Does the game still have the original PR-8210 laser disc player?
Does the LD player spin up and stop or do you hear a clicking noise from the player?
 
Disc Player

No clicking, When I went into the test mode I was able to do some of the tests for the video but not all.

As it happened, I did something to the video feed (it used to at least show the test screen) now the monitor is on, but there is no video feed at all.

I will keep working on it. I agree that maybe the player needs servicing, but I figure I need to get the video (even if it is only the test menu) up first.

Thanks.
 
If you haven't ever done it check all your plug connections epically the pin headers on the Filter bead boards. You need to remove them and re flow the solder on the back side of the boards for the pin headers. I also have seen the RCA jacks on the other boards have bad solder joints. So check all solder joints at all pin and jack headers. Sometimes you can have a bad connection where the wires crimp on the plugs so check all connections.
As for the player, unhook it and connect it to a TV with a video input and push play and see if the player works. It might not be getting the signal though the wire jack, the other end goes into the filter board which could have the bad solder joint.
The filter boards are the one's at the bottom.
 

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mach 3

Is there anyone who works on the laser stuff ? I have seen people mention to reflow the pins on the mach 3 filter boards a few times but I dont think that is a job for just anyone. Which would be why my boards never got done.
 
Disc player seems to play fine.

Ok, so I continued to troubleshoot tonight. Luckily, the man who sold me the machine gave me a massive supply of spare parts and I am confident I will track down the problem in the next few days.

Removed the disc player and hooked it up to my TV. Played the whole disc just fine, no issues so I think it may have something to do with the commands the game send to the player upon initialization/spin up. Also, the video output would not go to the tv, but the 75 ohm output would. I think this was just the appropriate signal for the tv, as it would not do so in the game.

Checked continuity over damn near everything and disconnected/reconnected everything as well. All the LED's are lit up on the power supply, all fuses are good, fans work etc... I did notice that the LED on the sound board was flasshing before and now it is solid on. Not sure what that means. Checked that RF board and at a point where the solder was scorched, the was no continuity. Saw on one of the spares someone had made a jumper on one of the boards and I did so as well. Seemed to move things along.

I ended up finding a spare in the extras wrapped in bubble wrap. switched it out and it seemed to be about the same so I think that problem is fixed. According to the troubleshooting guide in the manual, I will start checking the power to the color/sync pcb. Depending on the result it says I may need to replace either the logic board or the color/sync board.

We will see.

learning more each day.
 
Down to a picture issue

I checked every connection, this time for simple continuity. Found one broken connection of the RF filter board (The long thin one on the bottom) I made a jumper (Please see picture)

Well, at first I blew a fuse on the power supply. Replaced it and she came up working. couldn't believe it.

Only problem was the picture is all jacked up. (Please see other pictures) I looks like the image is "doubled". Game seems to play ok but I cannot hear the machine guns.

I do not know (thought it seems logical) that the jumper I made bypasses some of the filter on that board and may be causing the problems. Please let me know what you think.

Not sure how to repair the board other than the jumper. Please take a look at the screen photos and if you can make them out, let me know what you think.

There is no sync pot and I only see one unnamed pot on the sync board, unless you know where it is. Please let me know any suggestions.

I am looking for one of the RF filter boards if you have one, just to rule out the jumper.
 

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I checked every connection, this time for simple continuity. Found one broken connection of the RF filter board (The long thin one on the bottom) I made a jumper (Please see picture)

Well, at first I blew a fuse on the power supply. Replaced it and she came up working. couldn't believe it.

Only problem was the picture is all jacked up. (Please see other pictures) I looks like the image is "doubled". Game seems to play ok but I cannot hear the machine guns.

I do not know (thought it seems logical) that the jumper I made bypasses some of the filter on that board and may be causing the problems. Please let me know what you think.

Not sure how to repair the board other than the jumper. Please take a look at the screen photos and if you can make them out, let me know what you think.

There is no sync pot and I only see one unnamed pot on the sync board, unless you know where it is. Please let me know any suggestions.

I am looking for one of the RF filter boards if you have one, just to rule out the jumper.

I looked up the pin out of the filter board and the pins you jumped come directly off the power brick full wave rectifier which provides 11.5 volts dc to the power supply board which it uses to produce the regulated 5 volt line which is why the game died. I don't think their would be a problem with the jumper but all you really need to do it re flow the solder on the pins and sometimes on the other components in between the pins. You could have other bad connections on other pins too that could make contact part of the time. That's why it's best to re flow all the pins. The screen shots look like a vertical hold problem and maybe a color problem too which goes back to the filter board pin problem. Your red, green,blue and sync signals all run though the filter board. You might also have a bad color sync board. Did you just replace that board? Re flow all the solder joints and if that doesn't change anything try swapping the original color sync board back in as it was probably good as your problem was with the power because of the bad connection.
 
Got her up tonight. Need GO7 help.

Amazingly, it came up this evening and I was able to dial in the picture close, but I still need a manual for a GO7 to finish it up.

The video tests would not work (test locked up and had to restart) but game apears to play fine (aside from machine gun noise, there is none, but I will worry about that later)

I think I am down to the monitor adjustments (picture is off to the left, with garbage at the top and bottom)

Any help would be great. Thanks to all those who put up with my noob dilemmas.
 
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