Lunar Lander: 2025.

cant you just re-pin the wires that are cut? or are they cut elsewhere other than the connector?
 
The CP is currently wired up like Phet's love bot, so it all needs to be gone over.

I think Ray Charles was the op.
 
My OEM manual and schems arrived yesterday, look like brand new from 1979!! Also includes some other flyers and info.

Anybody know a Tommy Hayes in the biz?
 

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My OEM manual and schems arrived yesterday, look like brand new from 1979!! Also includes some other flyers and info.

Anybody know a Tommy Hayes in the biz?
That last one (Supertop) looks like a rough draft of an eventual flyer. Really cool find!
 
The Asteroids donor harness arrived. I've never had to remove pinned wires from an Atari edge connector. I tried on one wire that I probably won't need, and it didn't fare well.

I can cut the wires, and pins, out of the Asteroids connector, but will be in the same predicament when I go to remove the cut wires from the LL harness. Anyone have any helpful tips for getting these buggers out? I was using eyeglass screwdrivers but couldn't get the blasted pin to come out.

EDIT: I will read here.
 
Got one out of the Asteroids connector now that I get how the process works. The pin shown would have had the wire on the right side (it broke off). The little mobob holding the thing in the connector is on the top center. Hard to believe it has the strength that it does!!

20251002_125803(1).jpg
 
Here's one that just popped out without mangling the pin, nor, connector. Smallest slot tip eyeglass screwdriver used.20251002_130443.jpg20251002_130636.jpg
 
Alot of the smaller gauge wires are breaking off of the pins no matter what I do, so we'll see what happens when I get to working on the actual LL harness.
 
Alot of the smaller gauge wires are breaking off of the pins no matter what I do, so we'll see what happens when I get to working on the actual LL harness.

Odd, I've never had issues like you're describing. They usually pop out without much effort at all.

I've used the extractor's you showed as well as a 1/2" staple bent flat. The staple method seems to work like a champ for me.
 
Alot of the smaller gauge wires are breaking off of the pins no matter what I do, so we'll see what happens when I get to working on the actual LL harness.
The right tool makes this easy.

I'm just saying.
 
Well, they're all out now (the wires I mean). I'll start identifying what wires need to go into LL next.
20251002_141122.jpg
 
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Yep. I'll need to repin whichever those wires were, or just connect them to existing stubs. Now mentioning for 2nd time that I've never had to do any repinning before, so it is what it is. :(
 
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Initial checks on the LL connector:


Position D, white wire (been cut)
Per manual, it says this is used for Audio 2. Someone can correct me, but I think I read audio 2 isn't used for LL, so that should be OK.

Position H, white/yellow wire (been cut)
This is supposed to be for lamp 3

Position 7, white/red wire (been cut)
This is for the start/select LED

I will continue to check once I get back out to the machine, but I believe the next slot down under H (J), has no wire present, and, should (for lamp 2).
 
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It really matters to have a proper extraction tool for those. A jeweler's screwdriver is not it, and won't bend the retaining tab cleanly, and you'll damage the pin. The proper tool fills the hole completely, which bends the retaining tab more cleanly, which lets the pin slide right out. If you're going to work on these, do yourself a favor and spend $10 to get the right tool.

If you extract the pins cleanly, you can reuse them, and solder the new wires to them. I've never needed to buy replacement pins, as I always repair them.

I just open the outer insulator crimp with some fine pliers, file the top of the inner crimp to bare metal, strip the wire so it's fresh, then solder it to the pin. Then manually bend the outer insulation crimp over the insulation. I also then cover it with shrink tubing, to protect it and mechanically reinforce the wire a bit more.
 
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