Lucky and Wild - missing a color

vintagegamer

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This game was flawless for years. It has sat for about a year now not being powered up, and when I powered it up on Sunday, I'm missing a color (the car shows at dark brown vs red so I'm guessing the red is what's missing...)

We are having a gathering this wknd, should I start at the neckboard? If I can't figure it out in the next day or so, it will probably get the dreaded OOS sign.
 
What monitor is in it?
it's kind of incredible how these threads all seem to start the same way now. lol

the red pin, being the outer pin, is usually the one where the solder takes the most abuse on the signal header. people now have this belief these games were made to put in their garage or basement. they're coin operated devices, a lot of monitors and boards got swapped around to keep the top earning games making money. the swapping process and overall age and use is the reason the factory solder isn't good enough anymore. missing red could be a dirty JAMMA connection on the red wire, or a wire break in-between, maybe a bad connection at the plug. or a little more obscure cause could be at the neck socket itself. or the obvious, the red electron gun emissions are poor. best case scenario it's dirty and rejuvenation (NOT clean & balance, stop wasting your time with this or acting like you're playing 4D chess "saving" the guns) will correct it; worst case the gun is worn out. then you can do a tube swap if you want to flex on your knowledge and skill or something.

I also find it incredible that people say they "rebuilt" monitors and don't apply any effort to sorting out signal or yoke header pin solder. or they don't do anything with resistors. but they're cool with dropping about $70 worth of parts they GENIUNELY didn't need cause they had a working monitor to begin with.

sorry for the rant, I'm hoping my message will stick eventually, but probably not.
 
I have to look up what monitor is in it, it's been so self sufficient I don't remember. Had the game for at least 15 yrs. I want to say it's a K7000.
 
Well, you guys were spot on, it's the header connector and pin. I pulled the connector cleaned up the pins, and hit the connector with electronics cleaner, and got my red back. Don't know if I'll have enough time to pull the chassis before Sat to reflow, but we'll see. Thanks for the quick help!!
 
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Glad you got it back going again! But certainly, if you haven't done anything with it for 15+ yrs, there is probably a bit of overdue maintenance still to be done... :)
 
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