Lube for Joysticks?!

so I have 3in1 oil, white lithium grease, adn I just went and bought this stuff from harbor freight. (based on this thread).

Do I just take a small amount and rub it into the 'pivot ball' (for lack of knowing proper terminology) and call it a day? I've already completely disassembled and cleaned the joystick. (nintendo).

VERY light coat on the ball worked for me.
 
With a Nintendo joystick, the most important thing is to clean it thoroughly. The ball pivot socket is a trap for crud buildup. The easiest thing to do is take it apart and let the base (which contains the pivot ball encased in a socket) soak overnight in a solvent (gasoline is an effective solvent, and cheap enough to use in parts-soaking quantity).

Use stuff like a small brush, Q-tips, pipe cleaners, etc., to scrub down in the socket after it has soaked long enough to loosen the crud buildup.

If you use an oily type solvent like gasoline, kerosene, WD-40, etc., once you have all of the gunk out of the socket, clean off all the oily residue from within the ball socket with something like carburetor or brake cleaner. Those can be used for the initial cleaning instead of letting it soak in a solvent bath too, but you'll probably end up using a lot, and they're relatively expensive.

If your joystick has never been cleaned, you'll notice a world of difference after cleaning. You technically don't even lubrication, because there is pretty much no load or sustained rapid motion, but for good measure, I use 3M dry silicone spray on my Super Punch-Out joystick, and have for about 10 years. Whatever you use, you want it to be light. Silicone spray or light oil is fine (such as 3-In-One oil). A bonus with 3-In-One is that it smells awesome (almost as good as Hoppes No. 9 gun cleaning solvent). If you use grease, you only want a very light layer of it. If you pack the socket full of grease like you would with wheel bearings, it will make the joystick feel sluggish.

By the way, Nintendo never mentioned 3-In-One oil that I know of, but Atari did. It is what they recommended for the bearings in Missile Command's trackball (and maybe for other games too):

g7lNACn.png


But 3M dry silicone spray beats everything in my experience. It adheres tenaciously to everything, even after the liquid carrier dries (hence the "dry" in the name), and is slippery as hell. Because it dries, it won't attract dust like grease and oil do. I was using some a couple months ago and some overspray got on my wooden floor. My foot still slips on that spot every time I walk on it.
 
+1 for silicone grease.

(Aka spark plug boot grease, or dielectric grease). Can be found at any auto parts store. One tube will last you forever, as you only need a little.

I use it on all of my Tempest spinners, Monroe sticks, Battlezone sticks, Pole Position shifters, steering wheels, and pretty much any other arcade controller. Super slick, stays put, and doesn't gum up.

Some other folks use white lithium grease, but personally I like the silicone better.

I was in a pinch for some light grease for my Nintendo joysticks when I took them apart and cleaned them and the only light grease I had was dielectric grease and used it with a couple drops of this which worked perfectly:

20150319_111319-small.jpg


Yea, they stock lithium grease Nintendo used on the joysticks turns hard and dries out bad, I wouldn't put lithium back on it. But you definitely have to totally dissemble the joysticks and clean each piece thoroughly. Cleaned and relubed what a difference! Joysticks feel like brand new!

Buttons get gummed up too over the years and should also be cleaned (I put a drop of that oil in them after cleaning)

20150319_104705-small.jpg
 
I don't think I've ever put a drop of oil on any of my Nintendo sticks or Monroe Sticks...

The fact that there isn't a load... nor rapid movement... AND the stick is in a HOME arcade environment ... I didn't think it was even necessary.

All my Nintendo sticks have felt fantastic after a rebuild... with no grease/oil.

Same with my Monroe.

I figured the oil/grease would do nothing much other than attract dirt/grime.

Hmmm...
 
I don't think I've ever put a drop of oil on any of my Nintendo sticks or Monroe Sticks...

The fact that there isn't a load... nor rapid movement... AND the stick is in a HOME arcade environment ... I didn't think it was even necessary.

All my Nintendo sticks have felt fantastic after a rebuild... with no grease/oil.

Exactly. When they're clean, they're slick as a smelt, even without lubrication.

I figured the oil/grease would do nothing much other than attract dirt/grime.

That's why I use 3M dry silicone spray. Even if the lubrication isn't needed, it certainly doesn't hurt anything, plus it helps protect the bare steel from rust.
 
HUO or not, the lube would prevent a lot of the wear.

The Superlube that HF sells is damn near close to the Nyogel.
 
this is what i use.

https://www.amazon.com/AeroShell-Ex...=1482056899&sr=8-3&keywords=aero+shell+grease

it is expensive, but it lasts for ever!!

i have had my tube for 10+ years and it is only 1/3rd gone.

it repels moisture, dissipates heat "not that that is a problem in the arcade world", but it is in the aerospace environment it was designed for.

i even used it to pack and lube the 4 wheel drive bearings and hubs in my 76 chevy pickup, they were smooth as butter from then on and stayed so cool to the touch.

best grease you can use IMO.

Peace
Buffett
 
Just found a note in the Radar Scope manual for the two way joysticks, also the same note is in both the Helifire manual and the Space Firebird manual.

--------------------------------------------------------------------
Following lubrication oil is used.

Shinetsu silicone grease "SILICONLUBE G31-L".
--------------------------------------------------------------------

The company is still around, but I think it is now Shin-Etsu.
 
Last edited:
Would anyone weigh in on lube points for a Wico leaf stick? It looks to me like the center hold in the grommet would be the main spot. Curious to hear any other tips for these.
 
I would not normally lube a Wico leaf stick. They weren't designed for it, and there's really no need, as there aren't really any friction points that require it.

The only exception is if you have the occasional stick that squeaks. This can happen from the spring rubbing on the shaft, or the shaft rubbing on the grommet, in which case I might rub the shaft down with a tiny bit of silicone grease, but then wipe it off, to just leave a coating.

You don't want to use any lube that will attract dirt and crap, and/or that will get the leafs dirty, if it seeps onto them.

If your sticks don't feel good, the best thing to do is to clean all of the parts in warm soapy water, dry overnight, and reassemble. You can soak the metal parts in white vinegar for 24-48 hours, then scrub them with a wire brush to remove any rust (or tumble them, if you have a rock tumbler).

You can also use steel wool on the shafts to clean off any light rust, or chuck them in a drill and use fine grit automotive sandpaper if they're really rusted (640, 1000, 2000 grit, then a final buff with metal polish will make them like new again).
 
We had to do a lot of research on lubricating our clean room tools. All lubes are not the same and as you can find out the same manufacturer can have several versions of silicon lube. The main thing you would be looking for is a lubricant that has a synthetic oil base, and has good oxidation, and moisture resistance.

In my personal beliefs based on LM guides, linear ball screws, Thompson bearings, vacuum seals.... The biggest reason for failure of lube in the arcade machines that I see is oxidation due to age or moisture due to humidity. You must also be careful not to over lubricate the friction points. This attracts dust, dirt, and other things that can oxidize the grease causing it to form varnish, and acids.

I found this table for thickeners that I like to use that McMaster Carr put together. They sell a grease DuPont Teflon® with Calcium Sulfonate Thickener
that really has my interest for a joystick, gear, or other surfaces. Teflon and calcium Sulfonate are both amazing for moisture resistance as well as oxidation.
I will be ordering a jar which is fairly cheap as well and test it out.
 

Attachments

  • image.png
    image.png
    131.8 KB · Views: 10
I would not normally lube a Wico leaf stick. They weren't designed for it, and there's really no need, as there aren't really any friction points that require it.

I disagree. Metal-on-metal contact should be greased. For a Wico, that's where the shaft goes through the grommet.
 
I disagree. Metal-on-metal contact should be greased. For a Wico, that's where the shaft goes through the grommet.

Grease is only required for parts that are under a load and/or are subject to high-speed movement, such as wheel bearings, and even then it is only needed if it's a situation where oil would drain away or be thrown off. In situations where large quantities of oil can be contained ("oil bath"), it is better than an application of grease, because of the cooling effect of circulating oil. That's why engines, transmissions, and rearends use an oil bath. Grease is nothing more than oil emulsified within a soap type substance.

For metal-on-metal contact in joysticks, where there is no significant load or speed, 3M dry silicone spray is perfect. If you use oil or grease it will be a dust/dirt trap, eventually creating an abrasive paste. But regardless of what you use for lubrication, the mechanism has to be clean first. This is especially important with Nintendo joysticks, which have a semi-enclosed pivot ball/socket where so much crud can eventually build up that it will barely self-center anymore. For example, this is a spare Punch-Out control panel that I've had for a long time; I've never done anything to the joystick; it is exactly as I got it:



If I were to thoroughly clean that joystick it would work like new (I've done it with ones dirtier than that one). The easiest way to clean them is to soak all of the metal parts in gasoline overnight, scrub the parts, especially inside of that socket, with a combination of brushes, Q-tips, and pipe cleaners until you could eat off of it, then hose it down with brake cleaner, and spray all the metal parts, especially inside the socket, with 3M dry silicone spray. Under typical home use conditions, you won't have to clean or lubricate it again for probably the rest of your life.
 
I disagree. Metal-on-metal contact should be greased. For a Wico, that's where the shaft goes through the grommet.


Well, you can do that, but IMO the risks outweigh the benefits.

There isn't much friction between the grommet ferrule and the shaft, as it isn't a pivot point, the way it is on Monroe sticks, and the shaft is just seated in the grommet. Also, the shaft is hardened steel, while the grommet is softer brass, so the grommet has some give, if there is any friction.

But the bigger issue IMO is contamination. Any lube used on the shaft will over time creep down the shaft, and get on the actuator, and in turn get on the leaf contacts eventually, along with whatever dirt it brings with it. And the contacts are sensitive to dirt.

Also, you need to be sure whatever lube you use has no long-term effect on plastic or rubber.

Again, you can probably do it and get away with it, but IMO if the stick is clean and assembled properly, there's no real need for lube on a Wico. I've disassembled hundreds of used Wico sticks, and none of them were lubed. They work fine without it, and none was ever recommended by Wico.
 
Well, you can do that, but IMO the risks outweigh the benefits.

Been doing it that way for 20 years now, and all my sticks are still working great. And yes, the shaft is harder than the grommet, so by lubing you are protecting the grommet from wear.

As for dry silicone spray, it's great stuff and I use it on a lot of things (to clean and lightly lube). But for joysticks (particularly Monroe) I find it just doesn't hold up as long as a light coating of grease (oil or silicone based).
 
Been doing it that way for 20 years now, and all my sticks are still working great. And yes, the shaft is harder than the grommet, so by lubing you are protecting the grommet from wear.

As for dry silicone spray, it's great stuff and I use it on a lot of things (to clean and lightly lube). But for joysticks (particularly Monroe) I find it just doesn't hold up as long as a light coating of grease (oil or silicone based).

3M dry silicone sticks aggressively to anything you spray it on. Even chemicals like isopropyl alcohol or oxalic acid won't take it off. I found this out when I made the mistake of spraying some on the track of a potentiometer. It made the pot behave erratically, which I didn't think was a big deal; I knew that was a possibility before I tried it, but I figured I could just wash it off if it didn't work well. I started with simple soapy water, since that will remove any petroleum-based lubricant. That did nothing. Then I soaked it in alcohol for hours; still did nothing. Then I scrubbed the track with a toothbrush and Bar Keepers Friend (active ingredient: oxalic acid; removes rust and oxidation from metals), and that did nothing. I believe I even tried oven cleaner, to no avail.

While I was spraying some on a door hinge several months ago, some of it got on my wooden floor. My foot still slips on that spot when I walk over it, and its a high traffic spot.

6 years ago the side window in my truck was hard to roll up and down. I sprayed some on the rubber weather stripping that grips the glass as it rolls up and down, and it's worked like new ever since.

11 years ago I thoroughly cleaned my Super Punch-Out joystick and lubricated it with 3M dry silicone spray. It is still slick as a smelt.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom