Loud pop, then no picture - what could it be?

Beastech

New member
Joined
Nov 28, 2008
Messages
163
Reaction score
0
Location
Alabama
It also had a burning smell. I KNOW that can't be good. I believe it is either the power supply or the monitor. I took some pics, maybe you guys can give me a hand?
 

Attachments

  • photo (1).jpg
    photo (1).jpg
    86 KB · Views: 103
  • photo (2).jpg
    photo (2).jpg
    88.9 KB · Views: 99
  • photo (3).jpg
    photo (3).jpg
    92.9 KB · Views: 116
  • photo (4).jpg
    photo (4).jpg
    86 KB · Views: 85
I'd examine your flyback. That big black thing in the 3rd picture. Look for burn marks on it. Flybacks smell terrible when they arc and fail.
 
Is there any white "fuzzy" stuff all around the boards somewhere? If so that was a cap. that blew. If not then your flyback may be bad.
 
is this the first time you've used this monitor?

EDIT: there's a good reason I ask, cause commonly people plug K7000s into cabs that don't have isolation transformers, which will definitely produce the "pop" sound you heard and the screen doesn't work anymore.
 
Last edited:
Man, you guys are the best when it comes to this stuff. Thanks again for the suggestions.

I'm not at the arcade right now, but I'll be at it tomorrow morning to try to get some answers. I'll post here as soon as I find anything out.

EDIT: Yeah, I've used the machine before. Used a cap kit a couple of years ago to get her back up and running, and it worked fine ever since with the exception of having a slight shake in the screen.
 
Last edited:
Wow that took a lot longer than I thought. I replaced the chassis a couple of years ago.

I checked to see if it plays blind and it does. So it looks like its about time to replace the monitor, install a cap kit, or get another chassis again.

I believe its a Wells Gardner K7000 19 inch. The sticker fell off the last time I replaced the chassis so that makes it a little tougher. I know the monitor is special in the case that it grounds itself when it is cut off. This IS the monitor I'm thinking of correct?

If anybody has any suggestions throw em' at me.
 
yea that is a 19" K7000.

i can repair it for you.
or sell you another chassis repaired and ready to go.

Peace
Buffett
 
Buffet i would love to get another chassis. How much are you looking for one?
 
My money's on a ceramic cap. When MLCCs fail, they usually short; if a lot of current flows through them as a result, they (literally) explode. Look for the remnants of a dipped-package component surrounded in white powdery crap.
 
That chassis has new caps and it looks like a "good" flyback. Flyback appears to be a late model replacement. I'd be very surprised if the flyback blew. You did use an isolation transformer in that cabinet right?
 
I replaced the chassis and still have the problem. I didnt build this unit myself or anything, not sure what an isolation transformer even looks like.

Root, ill look for that later today.
 
It's number 6 in this picture. It isn't always in this exact configuration, but most of the time its the biggest part on an arcade power supply and it sits on the bottom on the cabinet somewhere. Most arcade monitors require this to operate. Never plug an arcade monitor directly into the wall, because it'll usually fry without this. The only reason I mention this is because Nintendo monitors have a nice looking plug that looks like it's made to plug into a wall- just DON'T do it. They barely ever go bad- it's usually something else thats wrong with the monitor.

ac3a.jpg
 
Here is a couple of pics. One is the power supply, although not a very good shot. The other is where the monitor fits onto the little board. Its on as tight as i could get it but you can still see the pins a little bit. I was afraid of breaking something by jamming it to hard.
 

Attachments

  • ImageUploadedByTapatalk1329282996.035206.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1329282996.035206.jpg
    7.6 KB · Views: 32
  • ImageUploadedByTapatalk1329283047.193233.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1329283047.193233.jpg
    9.5 KB · Views: 32
Ok the isolation transformer is present and accounted for. I just bought a replacement power supply to see if that is the issue.
 
Back
Top Bottom