Lost World sega model 3 power supply to ATX and happ 45 gun conversion

runawayabc123

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Lost World sega model 3 power supply to ATX and happ 45 gun conversion

Edit: This is now how to convert to an ATX power supply and Happ 45 light guns (from IR guns)

I have a lost world with no power supply and it takes the same voltages as other power supplies.

Most thread says to take the old sega model 3 power supply and use it as your starting point for wiring into your new power supply so you have the correct connectors to the sega harness.

Does anyone know what the correct connectors/part numbers are?

You can see them in the ebay link below if you scroll over a few pictures. The black ones on the power supply. One for 3.3v/grn, one for 5v/12v/grn and one for A/C stuff.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sega-Jurasi...D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

Thanks!
 
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Sega Model 3 PSU

At Sega we had many different revisions of these units all thru the M3S1 to M3S2 games. They were junk. Then we made a harness to use the Naomi style unit as retrofit. Still a bad idea though. These Amp connectors are difficult to get in USA. I always recommend hacking the harness and either putting the harness wiring to a buss bar or two 9 pin Molex connectors so you can plug and play a Happ 44-1095-00 unit. This PSU is ATX but has two 9 pin connectors for outputs. It has adjustable 3.3 and 5vdc needed for M3 systems.
 
Thanks for the response!

Do you know what the pin out is for the two 9pin molex connectors on the Happ 44-1095-00 is?
 
Sorry but I do not know pinout. Check there sights tech page and see if they have it. It may be on item page also but I'm not sure.
 
I have a lost world with no power supply and it takes the same voltages as other power supplies.

Most thread says to take the old sega model 3 power supply and use it as your starting point for wiring into your new power supply so you have the correct connectors to the sega harness.

Does anyone know what the correct connectors/part numbers are?

You can see them in the ebay link below if you scroll over a few pictures. The black ones on the power supply. One for 3.3v/grn, one for 5v/12v/grn and one for A/C stuff.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sega-Jurasi...D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

Thanks!

On the JQA power supply there is 3 connectors for DC, a 10pin, a 12pin and a 18pin as well as a 15pin AC input and a 9pin AC output connector. If you have a look at the webpage for my adaptor kit that you contacted me about, http://cwispy.com/sega-psu-to-atx-psu-adapter/ you will see near the top of the page an image showing the pin outs of the JQA power supply.

The proper crimper required to crimp these pins is very expensive too. Yes there is cheap ones on ebay, but they do not crimp properly and you end up getting arcing and burning of the connector which can, and does, do damage to the game boards. Also most of the connectors are pending obsolescence now due to their age.

The easiest solution if you still have the full wiring harness in the cabinet is to use the adapter I have made to use an ATX power supply.
 
On the JQA power supply there is 3 connectors for DC, a 10pin, a 12pin and a 18pin as well as a 15pin AC input and a 9pin AC output connector. If you have a look at the webpage for my adaptor kit that you contacted me about, http://cwispy.com/sega-psu-to-atx-psu-adapter/ you will see near the top of the page an image showing the pin outs of the JQA power supply.

The proper crimper required to crimp these pins is very expensive too. Yes there is cheap ones on ebay, but they do not crimp properly and you end up getting arcing and burning of the connector which can, and does, do damage to the game boards. Also most of the connectors are pending obsolescence now due to their age.

The easiest solution if you still have the full wiring harness in the cabinet is to use the adapter I have made to use an ATX power supply.

Thanks for the reply.

I actually chopped off the original connectors and replaced with 2 9position molex power connectors. (I got a bunch when radioshack went bankrupt, so those were about .80ea.)

I got a 24pin ATX extension harness (about $10 shipped from amazon) and wired that up to 2 9position molex power connectors.

Pluged those together and I have a working sega game.

Why 2 9position molex connectors? That is the power supply iRepairSega recommended takes. I didn't get the exact pin outs of the power supply, so I did it based on what the 24pin ATX standard goes to and what the wires were for Jurassic Park, Lost World.

I did:
connector 1: 5 wires for 5v, 4 wires for ground
connector 2: 2 wires for 12v, 4 wires for 3.3v and 3 wires for ground

Hindsight being 20/20, I think I might have just done 1 wire for 12v. But, each wire's contact is rated at 5amps and I wasn't sure if 5amps would be limiting or not.

On the game side (in my case Jurassic Park, Lost world), I evenly grouped out the wires to the contacts. 18awg each has its own contact (one 12v 18awg shared an extra 12v 24awg wire) and 24awg were either 2,3 or 4 per contact. 4 24awg wires is equal to a little less than a 18awg wire.

The ATX power supply is only tested for video. I haven't wired in sound yet (I have a "kit" of parts, no cab) and I'll be converting to happ light guns soon. I'll report back when I know how those work.

I want to say that the 5v wire for the start button was only at about 4.6v, so I may need to get a power supply I can volt up as ATX power supplies are known to run at about 4.9v-4.8v (never a true 5v as computer have voltage regulators in them to adjust the volts up).
 
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IR Gun to Light Gun conversion:

The IR guns in JP Lost World are expensive. The IR sensors for the monitor are almost as expensive too and you need a bunch of them!

You can convert to Light Guns!

You will need:
1)SEGA GUN I/O BOARD 837-12079 (House of the Dead 1 or Virtua Cop are donnors, I got mine by itself off of ebay)
JST-NH connectors:
2)2x5pin
3)2x6pin
4)1x7pin
5)1x8pin
6)contacts for the housings
Note: these are 25mm (.98") pitch instead of 25.4mm/.1" pitch. Sometimes with few pins you can get away with "forcing" them to a 25.4mm/.1" pitch.
7)2x4pin molex .1" housing and enough contacts for 2x happ 45s WITH 2 male/male z connector if you don't want to hard wire to the guns.

I had some extra H15P-SHF-AA connectors (15pin JST-NH for TMNT players 3/4) that I cut down to fit.

Molex has a similar line: 51191-1500 (15pin) or the "51191" series.

You'll want:
2x 51191-0500
2x 51191-0600
1x 51191-0700
1x 51191-0800
and enough contacts to fill them, maybe a few extras incase of a mistake or a bad crimp.

You'll notice that JP Lost World at Cn10 is unused and labeled "RS422 port".

This is the port you'll switch the guns to use. HOTD has a port "RS422 port" as well that is used.

Video has to be rerouted through this PCB (EGA only, game than must be run on EGA, not CGA/VGA). This is the same for HOTD, it is EGA, the gun I/O PCB works on EGA video signals.

In my next post, I'll fill in how to make a wiring harness. My gun i/o PCB is still in the mail, it should show up soon.
 
Thank you! This is something I wish I had time to do for everyone. Three thumbs up!

Ok now someone needs to come up with light gun system that will work on LCD / LED monitors . Wii?
 
ATX Conversion

This is the picture for converting to an ATX power supply.

Cut off the 3 connectors for 12v, 5v, 3.3v and ground. I wired them up to 2 9pin molex power connectors and those again to a 24pin ATX extension cable (a cheaper 24 to 20 will be missing some of the extra 3.3 and 12v wires).

Only 2x-12v wires (yellow) are present and they are on the bottom side of the 9pin 3.3v connector where you can't see them.

Note: the green wire when grounded turns on the ATX power supply. I'm using a jumper lead now, but will change to a real switch later.

Edit: if I was thinking, at this step, I would have added leads off the 2x9position to 24pin ATX connector of 12v, 5v, Ground to go to 1 or 2 molex power connectors for either the 5v needs on the light gun board And/Or the 12v needs for the 12v AMP (non-sega AMP). I instead used a 4pin molex/hard drive "Y" cable and cut off the "Y" ends to go to my 5v and 12v needs. Many newer ATX power supplies no longer include those old 4pin molex connectors, you would have to do something similar on the SATA power connectors.

Edit2: I got my hands on a Peter Chou UP-7 300 Watt ATX Power Supply 44-1095-00 (with independently adjustable 5v and 3.3v)
It's pin out is 2x9pin molex connectors, 3x5v on the ribbed side of the connector (the 3 little ribs), 3xGrn in the middle and 2x3.3v in each corner of the last row with 12v in the middle.
So:
|^^^|
|5 5 5|
|G G G|
|3.3 12 3.3|
-------------

Which is really close to the above's number of connections. (Same 3.3, one more 5v, one less ground same 12v)

If you pin this way, you can use either power supply in the future. :)
 

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RS422 cable

This was the not as fun part. I followed what I thought was the wiring diagram for House of the Dead and had this:
Gun I/O to Main PCB position mapping:
1-4
2-5
3-6
4-2
5-1
6 open - 3 open

This was WRONG!

I pulled out my House of the Dead wire which really is:
Gun I/O to Main PCB position mapping:
1-1
2-2
3-6
4-5
5-4
6 open - 3 open

Picture of port on Lost World to use and RS422 patch cable.
 

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Full Picture of the "new" gun harness:

CN1 is (I sourced this from an extra molex 4pin on the ATX power supply):
1 5v
2 5v
3 5v
4 open
5 ground
6 ground
7 ground

CN2 is: RS422 patch cable to Main PCB CN10

CN3 is: To happ 45 guns
1 5v player 1
2 Gun sensor player 1
3 open
4 Ground player 1
5 5v player 2
6 Gun sensor player 2
7 open
8 Ground player 2

By the existing IR Gun board are the blue/blue-white wires for players' 1 & 2 trigger (blue is player 1, blue-white is player 2).

On the "other" end of CN3 is happ 45 guns 1/2 (pick up the gun triggers as noted above)

CN4 is Video out to the monitor:
1 Red
2 Green
3 Blue
4 SYNC
5 Ground

CN5 is Video in from the Main PCB:
1 Red
2 Green
3 Blue
4 SYNC
5 Ground

These happ 45 guns are tested/working with an ATX power supply.

Note: I don't have sound working yet. I don't think this matters, and it wasn't working before either. I'm having fun with my pile of parts and learning about Lost World. :)
 

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Sound tested as working from the main PCB with an egg venture stereo amp on 12v from the ATX power supply. (You must use the "RCA" plugs for low level input!) This doesn't support a sub woofer, but I'm not sure that is that big of a deal to me.

So all tested working together:
ATX power supply conversion
Happ 45 light gun conversion
"Random" 12v dc stereo AMP in place of sega model 2 amp
 
Question

Please bare with me I am very new to this. I'm trying to do this exact same thing convert my lost world to use happ. For the connections that go from cn1 to the power supply. I have 4 open "holes" for +5v dc so no issue there but I only have 1 "hole" for GND. I was just going to put all 3 wires into the 1 hole ground and I just want to make sure this will be ok?
Thanks
 
So I bought a used happ gun on eBay for $20 and hooked it up to the house of dead board,when I first started using it it was working except I could not reload by shooting off screen. I went into the gun adjustments and messed with that for a while and now all the gun can do is shoot the center of the screen no matter where I point it anyone know what could be wrong?
 
So this is a complete original HOD1 game? Both guns inputs out? Did it ever work correctly? Or is this after converting type 2 system on LW to this type 1 light gun system from HOD1?
 
I now know it's not the gun since I got a new happ gun and it does the same thing. I try to calibrate the guns and they both will only shoot right in the middle of the screen. I included a pic of what I've done. This is a lost world with a hod1 io board with 2 happ guns
 

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Here is an attachment of cn2 hod1 to lost world cn10. I used the directions made by mancavearcade and I noticed it looks different from your pic of the rs422. Can you clarify how these two should be connected?
 

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Here is an attachment of cn2 hod1 to lost world cn10. I used the directions made by mancavearcade and I noticed it looks different from your pic of the rs422. Can you clarify how these two should be connected?

Yep, this is wrong. Switch the wires around to what I posted above. A little screw driver pushing on the pins works (push the wire in a little, just some pressure, push on the pin from the side, pull the wire out while still pushing).

What I posted above is exactly what the wires are in my HOTD wiring harness. Give this version a try.

(Thanks for PM-ing me, I wouldn't have noticed your post otherwise.)
 
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