Loose Edge Connector

parkway

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I searched around, but didn't see my question answered. I noticed that the edge connector on my Track and Field is very loose in its contact to the board and it's causing issues. What's the best way (or is there a way) besides replacing the connector itself and/or the entire harness to rectify this? Is it as easy as sticking a screwdriver into the connector and trying to bend the pins out a little bit?
 
I would suggest it is! Although its a bit of a quick and dirty fix. Replacing the connector would be the best way to go

welcome to the madness



technically, there's nothing wrong with the plastic of the connector
it's the PINS inside the connector where the problem lies

replace the pins and you're good to go

you will need a pin extractor tool and new pins, they are readily available

i wouldnt bend the pins out with a screwdriver. no way, not me anyway
some pins are only rated for 25 on/offs, they lose their ability to grip the PCB solder pads over time
 
Depending on the type of connector, you can replace just the pins instead of the entire connector.

Definitely wouldn't replace the whole harness.
 
If its an AMP housing you cant get new pins for it. If its molex your good to go.

I have no clue what an AMP housing is. :(
I'll take a picture of the connector and post it here.

Edit: Here's what my edge connector looks like:

e1.jpg



e2.jpg
 
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The connector is definitely a problem. The 2/4 player jump button doesn't work. I traced it back to the connector. Crap. Looks like I definitely have to fix it to make the game functional (for more than one player anyway).
 
Ok. I pretty much have to replace the edge connector regardless. Part of the plastic is cracked and one of the +5 pins is loose. Ordered a new connector from Mike's Arcade. I'm guessing the "right" way to install the new connector is to solder to the tabs and then shrink tube over the new joints, correct? Never used heat shrink tubing. What size is best to use for something like this? Do I need a heat gun or will a hairdryer suffice?
 
The correct method is to clip the wire right at the pin on the old connector, strip it back, crimp it into a new pin, insert the new pin into the new connector housing, rinse, lather, repeat.

If you want a crummy quick and dirty fix, then take a couple of those big black metal binder clips and clamp them onto the old connector housing, to bend the housing in and clamp the thing good to the board. It's ugly, it's a stopgap solution, but it does work.

-Ian
 
The dirty trick I was shown was to shove flat toothpicks between the housing and the pins. pic the most populated side and do it. if its still loose, do the other side.
 
He stated his housing was actually cracked.....you're asking for trouble....just replace it.

Edward
 
The dirty trick I was shown was to shove flat toothpicks between the housing and the pins. pic the most populated side and do it. if its still loose, do the other side.

That explains a lot!! I found a couple of broken toothpicks in the bottom of the PCB cage when I cleaned it out and I was wondering what they were doing there! Thanks! :)

I didn't realize the housing was broken until I really took a good look at it. It's not broken at the P2/4 jump pin; it's bad further down. Regardless, I'll just be doing a new connector (it probably deserves one after 27/28 years). As I asked before though, what size heat shrink tubing should I use? Hairdryer ok to shrink it?

Thanks guys!
 
skip the solder and shrink wrap.

See if old Bob Roberts has a connector and crimp pins. He sells a little 44 pin kit for Pacman boards. It is wonderful. It's kind of a hassle to sit there and clip/strip/crimp/insert all those pins, but if you've narrowed down the problem, then that's the good fix.

You'll thank yourself after you're done and it's solid.

Kerry

Fuse block with 22/44 Molex connector with split pins $9.00
You need a good crimper too.
 
Ah, crap. I didn't even think that was an option. I already ordered the one with solder eyelets. Is it worth returning the one with eyelets and using the pins instead. Sounds like it makes for a much more stable connection, huh?

skip the solder and shrink wrap.

See if old Bob Roberts has a connector and crimp pins. He sells a little 44 pin kit for Pacman boards. It is wonderful. It's kind of a hassle to sit there and clip/strip/crimp/insert all those pins, but if you've narrowed down the problem, then that's the good fix.

You'll thank yourself after you're done and it's solid.

Kerry

Fuse block with 22/44 Molex connector with split pins $9.00
You need a good crimper too.
 
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