Looking for advice on Guerrilla War..and Hello:)

[saleem]

if you get the wiring schems for the harness you will see what is what at the board connector,i mean if you want to save yourself the bother then just leave them joined.this midway door i got from usa had both coin microswitchs wired together,but,after reading the schems for this cab i saw that the 7 wires in the connector from the harness to the coin door harness had particaulr roles to play.so it was 2 microswitchs,coin 1 and coin 2 so i split them and used some of the connections up.

the midway coin door is hard to find and buy here in uk,as those that are around tend to be on cabs,so if you dont buy the cab (assuming you find one in first place) you cant get the door and if you can find one they cost a bomb.so i actualy got 2 from usa,1 off your ebay and another from arcadeboneyard.they were in pretty good nick,just the coin slots on the front need rechroming/silver,so i will get that done at later stage and a nice new midway badge.

the door for space zap upright cabinet was actualy originaly a dark grey (the original door had the locked cut out so only its frame was good,the door was a goner for sure) but,i couldnt color match it anywhere local so i opted for satin black which i had in tins already.like i say,i got 1 door extra and i am planning on getting that shot blast and painted the right grey for this cab.it came in 3 forms,cocktail,cabaret and the upright version which i have.the upright had the grey midway door whereas the other 2 were black.

very rare cabinet for united kingdom,i have spent a fortune on it so far.then its a balsteropids to sort,i cant get artwork though for it as it was never reproduced,then i got a gremlin/sega i want to moon cresta up.

and i got a midway space invader cocktail in bournemouth which is in south of england (i live in the north east) i am waiting on courier to pick it up,i won it on ebay.that will get the galaga conversion as that is my holiest of grails,we cant get galaga for s**t in united kingdom,so i am going to convert a cocktail.

enough to keep me happy.

i got a star castle also,got a monitor prob at the mo.

yes,i got enough to keep me occupied for quite some time.

 

[MaximRecoil]

I think there is only one set of wires running to the coin doors but I will make double sure of that. I haven't really looked at the wiring in the cab for it all that closely yet.

If the wiring works for one coin slot, then just jump the wires from it over to the other coin slot's switch (parallel). My Ikari Warriors (same machine as yours aside from the PCB and artwork) is like this. In the case of Ikari Warriors (and probably Guerrilla War), you wouldn't want to wire up both the #1 and the #2 coin pins from the board anyway, because they do different things, like 1 coin = 6 credits on the #2 pin (coin pin #2 allows for additional pricing options via the dipswitches beyond what is offered by coin pin #1). Whether you decide to use the #1 or the #2 coin pin from the board (only coin pin #1 gives you the typical 1 coin = 1 credit option), you only want to use one of them and wire it in parallel to both switches.

Parallel wiring can be accomplished by either running two full length wires from the coin pin on the board to both microswitches, or more conveniently in a machine that is already wired; by using the one full length wire from the coin pin that is already there, and then using a short "jumper" wire to go from it to the second microswitch.

I've attached a picture of mine. The yellow wire is a full length wire coming from coin pin #1 on the board, and the orange wire is a short jumper crimped together with the yellow wire in the QD, and going over to the other coin slot's switch. In this case there was an extra full length ground wire already there, so that didn't need to be jumped over; but if you don't have an extra ground wire up there, just make a jumper; same as the orange wire in the picture.

 

[ahkenatan]

We have GAME!

Thanks for the advice gentlemen. I had only one wiring harness going to the coin box. After a little bit of trial and error I now have it set to take quarters in both slots and my add credit button hidden on top of the machine works perfectly. Last night I got the bezel, plexiglass, t-molding and marquee all put in place. My fiance and I tried to put on the side art this afternoon but it did not go well and we took it off before it got damaged. I'm looking at different ways to apply it but I want to give the paint another few days at least to dry completely as it's been pretty humid here.

After I properly grounded the monitor the small bit of wavy lines and dots diminished almost entirely, there are still some tiny dots but tough to see unless the screen it black and then it's not really an issue. It's bright and clear - looks really good.

I ended up painting the cp again as it got dinged up a little while I was working on it. This time I taped off the trees as best as I could and gave it a light spray coat. You can see the black lines from the masking tape but I need to stop working on it now. Otherwise it will never end. If I ever see a cpo I will jump on it but for now it's good.

Still need to fix a piece of trim over the marquee, I have enough t-molding left to do it. Just need to dremel the channel out for it.


I'm very happy with the way this turned out, considering it's my first one.

 

[MaximRecoil]

Guerrilla War isn't a very good game. You should get an Ikari Warriors boardset to use in it if you plan to keep it; it is a lot more fun (and uses the same control scheme). Some Ikari Warriors boardsets were JAMMA (the ones that came with the Ikari Warriors conversion kit), though most of them are the older 44-pin SNK pinout. In my case I wired my Ikari Warriors cabinet so that I have both a JAMMA and an SNK edge connector, which allows me to swap both JAMMA-pinout (e.g., Victory Road, Guerrilla War, Heavy Barrel) and SNK-pinout (e.g., Ikari Warriors, TNK III) rotary games in there (though you can also make or buy a JAMMA adapter to accomplish the same thing without any rewiring):

Another fun game that will drop right in (because it is JAMMA) is Heavy Barrel.

 

[saleem]

nice job.i like the way you say its your first one!soon you will be getting on with your next project and before thats done the next in line will be stored away in the corner.so now your fiance is helping you she will probably want to buy a girly cab (pacman) if she ever sees one.

theres loads of little tuts and videos about applying side art to the cabs via google,seems to me most use masking tape or similar to tape it into place and then remove as they peel the backing away and stick the side art down.but,a cab without side art is not the same as one with,the art makes a cab look like something else.

 

[ahkenatan]

Here she is, side art applied. My fiance and I originally tried to put the side art on but it didn't work to well for us. So we managed to get it off and back on the paper, only had a tiny part of it applied. However it got wrinkled a little. This would affect things later on.

I found a vid on Youtube that showed how to apply side art. Decided to try it out for myself with the side I hadn't already tried to apply. It worked wonderfully. No bubbles, nothing. So I hit the side we tried before and it was not good at all. The vinyl of course was stretched and it took a ton of time to lay it down smooth, except it's not smooth. Lot's of little bubbles. I could not avoid them sadly. However I am going to use a pin to poke holes then try a quick hit with a blow dryer to see if that will tighten up the vinyl some. The pics are all of the good side.

Still need to route the channel above the marquee for the final strip of t-moulding and then it's finished.

I want to do another so bad!!

 

[ahkenatan]

Messed around with the small bubbles in the side art tonight. I just pricked a hole in the bubbles and they smoothed out perfectly. I managed to fix pretty much all of the imperfections.

I'm noticing now the left joystick isn't responding so well when pushed to the left. I'll need to take it apart and see whats wrong.