Looking for 22 pin ram sockets

Rrcade

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For Midway Space Invaders can't find them on anyone's site.
 
Also looking for .1uf ceramic disc capacitors for this Midway Space invaders motherboard
 
Is 0.100" the correct spacing for Midway SI Ram chips?
 
Is 0.100" the correct spacing for Midway SI Ram chips?

I can't say for sure. Don't have a Midway SI. But 0.100" is pretty common on thru-hole ICs of all sorts. Does the leg-spacing of your RAM chips look different from the microprocessor or the TLL chips? What's the part number of your RAM? The datasheet should have a drawing showing the leg spacing.
 
They are 2107 22 pin, I'm trying to find a data sheet right now
 
It seems extremely unlikely that the LEG-spacing is anything other then 0.1", it's a pretty reliable standard. The ROW-spacing, on the other hand, could be 0.3, 0.4, 0.6, hell-if-I-know... but it doesn't matter with SIP sockets; each row is a seperate strip unconnected to the other row.
 
I bought a bunch of these some time back to shotgun some boards. A couple people went in on them with me, but then dropped out.

22 pin dual wipe leaf sockets .400"

Digi-Key Part Number AE10264-ND

I can send a pack of 25 for $15 shipped. Paypal to [email protected]
 
I bought a bunch of these some time back to shotgun some boards. A couple people went in on them with me, but then dropped out.

22 pin dual wipe leaf sockets .400"

Digi-Key Part Number AE10264-ND

I can send a pack of 25 for $15 shipped. Paypal to [email protected]

Those are the ones I use as well. I don't recommend using machine pin sockets because they are a bitch to rework if you ever need to.
 
Those are the ones I use as well. I don't recommend using machine pin sockets because they are a bitch to rework if you ever need to.

Do you mind expanding on that a little? I always thought machine pin sockets were high-quality... and desirable for use. What exactly about them makes rework difficult, vice other types of sockets? Would the same difficulty apply to machine pin SIPs used to replace a socket? (like this: http://www.pinrepair.com/begin/sockets.jpg)

I've really never had occation to remove a machine pin socket that I've installed, so I don't know what the problems are. However, even removing cheap-ass OEM sockets can be a real pain sometimes...
 
My opinion here - machine sockets are ok as long as you are not going to do multiple insertions / removals of the ICs. It just seems to me that they lose their retention a lot quicker under multiple use.

As Riptor said, they can be a bear to remove and replace during the desoldering process depending upon the PCB hole diameter and the machined pin diameter. You might not get enough suction to remove all of the solder. If you are repairing a board and have to remove the socket again for whatever reason, it might not be so easy.

If you will be inserting / removing an IC multiple times them use a dual wipe socket. That would be my preference. Desoldering a dual wipe socket is also much easier as there is plenty of space around the socket leg to suck the solder through the PCB hole during the desoldering process.

Again this is my opinion based upon my experience - someone who repairs boards regularly and likes machined sockets is welcome to chime in.

Aren't you glad you asked??

Bill
 
Do you mind expanding on that a little? I always thought machine pin sockets were high-quality... and desirable for use. What exactly about them makes rework difficult, vice other types of sockets? Would the same difficulty apply to machine pin SIPs used to replace a socket? (like this: http://www.pinrepair.com/begin/sockets.jpg)

I've really never had occation to remove a machine pin socket that I've installed, so I don't know what the problems are. However, even removing cheap-ass OEM sockets can be a real pain sometimes...

IC sockets is a "Ford Versus Chevy" type argument.
Some swear by machine pin, some swear by leaf sockets.

Personally, I prefer machine pin by far -- these are the only things to go into military and aerospace equipment. Dual leaf sockets have a limited number of insertion/extraction cycles just like machine pin... And I have never seen the machine pin sockets last a shorter period of time than leaf sockets.

Some people say that rework of machine pin sockets is a bear. I guess it depends on how much experience you have. The issue with machine pin sockets is when you solder them in, the solder ends up wicking to the top side of the board and soldering the shoulder of the pin down to the pad. This makes it harder to remove them. But, this also has a far better plus side to this. If you lose the plating within the IC pin's hole, this will actually make connection to both top and bottom of board. Plus, you can often manually solder a machine pin socket to the top of the board if you need ot. Can't do that with a leaf socket.

One thing we can ALL agree to is that single leaf sockets really suck. These are the ones that you find out there at a dime apiece, sometimes less... and worth nothing. Count on this type of socket only lasting a few months before going intermittent.

-New- machine pin 0.4", 22 pin sockets have become a difficult socket to locate at a resonable price. But, I have located a new manufacturer for my sockets and have a few thousand on order. Also have a bunch more SIP sockets coming in and will be listed at a quarter apiece again.

-- Ed (GPE)
 
I agree with you ED, I have no problem pulling machine pin sockets with my pace desoldering unit. However I find that a good dual wipe is more than sufficient for these games so thats what I use. The only time I use a machine pin is when im repairing a board with pulled traces that someone hosed.
 
Do you mind expanding on that a little? I always thought machine pin sockets were high-quality... and desirable for use. What exactly about them makes rework difficult, vice other types of sockets? Would the same difficulty apply to machine pin SIPs used to replace a socket? (like this: http://www.pinrepair.com/begin/sockets.jpg)

I've really never had occation to remove a machine pin socket that I've installed, so I don't know what the problems are. However, even removing cheap-ass OEM sockets can be a real pain sometimes...

The problem with re-working machine pin sockets on these boards is there's no good way to remove the pin housing before desoldering the pins, or remove the pins individually. I've found that removing the pins individually is the best way to keep from pulling pads and traces. With the dual-wipe sockets it's easier - the old open-frame ones Atari used are nice because they can pry right off leaving the pins still soldered. Then you can desolder and remove them. Even with the newer ones that you can't pry up you can still grab the leaf and pull them out individually while you apply heat to the lead.

You can still work machine sockets in this way but it takes a bit more work: :)

http://bitslicer.tripod.com/machine_pin_socket.htm
 
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