Look what I bought today for $140.00

Klov

So today I purchased my first Vector game Battlezone!!!!!

The guy was asking $200 for it The thing is in amazing shape... All of the boards looked great, side art is almost perfect and all of the plastic parts are there and not scratched up.. I talked the guy down to $140.00

Chris

Thats a KLOVer statement.
 
BTW: Does the black light behind the half silvered mirror light up? If not, you're going to want to replace it. It's supposed to take a white-black light... though I am still on the fence as to whether I prefer a white or black black light.


It has the black light installed and it does light up.. The Marquee does not light up though...

Someone from here just emailed me about having an extra Regulator board for $25.00..

I am going to buy it and hopefully have a working battlezone by Thanksgiving...

Thanks,

Chris
 
I'd guess that game made most of its money in the first 2-3 years and hasn't made a cent since then. Those were the glory days....I remember a couple of these all lined up in a row in the arcade and a line of people waiting to play.

I guess if the game took tokens then maybe the gross is somewhat exaggerated. Back in the day arcades ran specials on tokens (10 for $1) so the game only cost a dime on those days.

Working Battlezone by Thanksgiving...hmmm...anything's possible. It's always nice when a project game like that fires up after a simple fix.

Let us know how it turns out.
 
I'd guess that game made most of its money in the first 2-3 years and hasn't made a cent since then. Those were the glory days....I remember a couple of these all lined up in a row in the arcade and a line of people waiting to play.

I guess if the game took tokens then maybe the gross is somewhat exaggerated. Back in the day arcades ran specials on tokens (10 for $1) so the game only cost a dime on those days.

Working Battlezone by Thanksgiving...hmmm...anything's possible. It's always nice when a project game like that fires up after a simple fix.

Let us know how it turns out.

I Hope so as well.. I just sent the money for the new AR board... Paid for 2nd day delivery..

This hobby makes me spend so much money......

If this does not fix the problem, then the wife will not be happy.. Yet another project...

Thanks to everyone who helped out....

I am pretty sure this machine did not accept tokens... Here is the price sheet found in the bottom of the cabinet.....

1 Susan B Anthony Coin got you 3 plays!!!!
 

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Those are various pricing scenarios which can be adjusted by the machine, probably with dip switches or a menu. A Susan B was very similar to a quarter and caused a lot of confusion, that's a big reason why there are millions of them that went uncirculated. The Susan B is probably the biggest failure in the history of the US Mint.
 
Those are various pricing scenarios which can be adjusted by the machine, probably with dip switches or a menu. A Susan B was very similar to a quarter and caused a lot of confusion, that's a big reason why there are millions of them that went uncirculated. The Susan B is probably the biggest failure in the history of the US Mint.

Sacagawea??

150px-SacDollar.jpeg


Up until recently (when they pulled out the stamp machines at the post office) you could get both SBA and Sacagawea dollars as change out of the stamp machines.

Edit: Or the $1 Presidential dollars that I have yet to see...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Presidential_$1_Coin_Act_of_2005
 
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I Hope so as well.. I just sent the money for the new AR board... Paid for 2nd day delivery..

This hobby makes me spend so much money......

If this does not fix the problem, then the wife will not be happy.. Yet another project...

Thanks to everyone who helped out....

I am pretty sure this machine did not accept tokens... Here is the price sheet found in the bottom of the cabinet.....

1 Susan B Anthony Coin got you 3 plays!!!!

Ok,

So I received the new AR board today and put it in.. Fired it up and I have the same problem...

A green dot and only around 4.2 volts on the boards...

Someone mentioned that replacing a big cap on the bottom of the cabinet is the other reason I would not see 5 volts...

Any suggestions on where to buy this cap?

Thanks,

Chris
 
Send an e-mail to bob with what your problem is and what you think you need and he will reply back. The guy has been around forever and knows all these old games very well.

Can't hurt to replace the big blue if it's original though. Some people replace the big blue as a pre-emptive procedure and replace the power cord.

There are a few LA people who work on these old games, Dave Shumard for one. Might be hard to get in contact with Dave though.
 
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Ok,

So after swapping out the AR board and still having the same problem, I went out and bought a replacement "Big Blue" capacitor on the power supply...

Crossing my fingers I turned it back on and no more audio hum..

The picture was still a dot, however I can now coin up and begin a game.. So now I can play blind..

I am still not sure what to do about the picture being a green dot. Should I recap the monitor?

Could there be a problem with one of the boards? Any help would be appreciated...

Thanks,

Chris
 
Ok,

So after swapping out the AR board and still having the same problem, I went out and bought a replacement "Big Blue" capacitor on the power supply...

Crossing my fingers I turned it back on and no more audio hum..

The picture was still a dot, however I can now coin up and begin a game.. So now I can play blind..

I am still not sure what to do about the picture being a green dot. Should I recap the monitor?

Could there be a problem with one of the boards? Any help would be appreciated...

Thanks,

Chris

You could check and or reflow all of the header pin solder joints on the monitor. Cold solder joints are pretty notorious on old vector monitors. Checking the solder joints is free and easy... If that doesn't fix it, then you need to move on to a rebuild kit IMHO.

Good Luck!
 
Don't run the game with the monitor disconnected. You can fry the R29 resistor on the AR board. It maybe already be burnt, and thats why your voltages are wrong. Check the AR board, for burnt parts.

There are test points on the boards that you can hook a meter to. Check your +5 at the boards. The adjustment for +5 is on the AR board. Also clean the edge connectors with a eraser. Dirty connecters can cause the sense line to fluctuate the voltage.

I'm just curious how running it without the monitor plugged in can burn the resistor at R29.
 
Always check the fuses in the transformer block too, corrosion there can cause problems. I have had more issues from corroded fuses than bad big blue caps.
 
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