Phetishboy

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I hope this helps someone restoring a GORF in the future. I decided to try and replace the original wood screws that hold the upper cab to the lower cab, as mine were rusty and just looked like hell. Here are the original rusted fucks:

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First I tried replacing them with standard 1 1/4" Black Oxide sheet rock screws. Well, they sucked. I could tell when installing them that there wasn't really enough shaft thickness and thread to screw in tight. They went in too easy. So I hunted for the right screws and found them:

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And you can see the old ones in comparison:

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So, there you go. # 10 x 1 1/4" Phillips Flat Head Wood Screws (#3 bit). Make it easy on yourself.
 
I also noticed that after installing a white 40 Watt CFL in my back-lighted monitor marquee, it seemed a bit to bright/stark and caused a reflection on the actual monitor glass. I decided to try a 40 Watt Blue CFL (not black light). I think that did the trick. Still glows right but cuts down on the glare.

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Before:

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After:

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Any idea where to find an exact replacement for the 3 original style screws that hold the silver bracket over the control panel and below the bezel? I think I painted some Atari allen head screws to use.
 
Any idea where to find an exact replacement for the 3 original style screws that hold the silver bracket over the control panel and below the bezel? I think I painted some Atari allen head screws to use.

My originals were in good shape, so no.
 
What's sexier than a rusty screw? Oh wait…those are actual rusty screws…never mind.

You should have titled the thread "Rusty screws and Blue bulbs" It sounds so dirty. :D
 
Yeah, he's got a 'thickness' problem, alright... in more ways than one.

That's why they *still* call me dick fingers.

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The little tidbit that I wanted you to get from this thread was that the fucking screws were made in Sheboygan, WI. Didn't you date a guy from there when you were still living in Madison?
 
Another idea for the back light would be 25w replacement CFL's which run at about 4w... they are a little harder to find, but they're nice and don't put out as bright a light.

Another option would be to shoot a quick and light layer of paint on the CLF bulb.... don't lay it on... more like a light "splatter" type pattern... it will cut down light significantly.

That said, the blue in that cab does look awesome.
 
I also noticed that after installing a white 40 Watt CFL in my back-lighted monitor marquee, it seemed a bit to bright/stark and caused a reflection on the actual monitor glass.

Well, if the original screws are that important to you, I figure you'd be interested in this-According to my Gorf manual, the upper marquees Lamps are: Frosted 25W, 3 required, and the two lower marquees are: clear 15W, 2 required.
 
Another idea for the back light would be 25w replacement CFL's which run at about 4w... they are a little harder to find, but they're nice and don't put out as bright a light.

Another option would be to shoot a quick and light layer of paint on the CLF bulb.... don't lay it on... more like a light "splatter" type pattern... it will cut down light significantly.

That said, the blue in that cab does look awesome.


Thanks Fritz, I may try the blues in the lower marquee area as well. I like the light, but it would be better as a glowing accent rather than a harsh spot light.
 
Well, if the original screws are that important to you, I figure you'd be interested in this-According to my Gorf manual, the upper marquees Lamps are: Frosted 25W, 3 required, and the two lower marquees are: clear 15W, 2 required.

Might as well use lit torches as use the original bulbs. The blackened burn holes in the roof of this cab are more than enough proof for me that this cab NEEDS CFL's.
 
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Might as well use lit torches as use the original bulbs. The blackened burn holes in the roof of this cab are more than enough proof for me that this cab NEEDS CFL's.

Yeah, with as many bulbs are in that thing, plus the p/s and monitor, you could nearly bake cookies in there.

I put CFL bulbs in mine. Not worried about the UV fade, as I rarely turn them on, but I don't want a 60w incan bulb burning the artwork.
 
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