List of useful parts to get started fixing arcade games.

a few things

I dont think owon is worth money in any sense of the word. They are spec sheet monsters but are horrible to use. I still recommend the rigol 1054z as a much more usable scope.

I see no point in recommending a logic probe if you are recommending an oscope. Those probes are junk and will send you down false paths.

the TL866 is okay but the GQ-4X4 is a far better purchase since it actually supports more eproms that are commonly used than the 866 does.


I think the xtronic iron is a sketchy buy. While I am confident it would work fine for most people. I still find he Hakko FX888D a better overall iron with easy to get tips. Plus I don't think most people should have access to a hot air gun as those tend to wreck boards if you don't know 100% what you are doing.

Overall, great list that should help some people get started.
 
a few things

I dont think owon is worth money in any sense of the word. They are spec sheet monsters but are horrible to use. I still recommend the rigol 1054z as a much more usable scope.

What! That's what I have (an older discontinued OWAN (SDS7102V) I upgraded from a 1995 era Tektronics black and white LCD and LOVE it, it's go so many features that are useful. The menu's could be more intuitive but once you get used to them, amazing.

I have heard good things about the Rigol, but I"ve been super happy with my OWAN and the HUGE LCD is a beauty.

I see no point in recommending a logic probe if you are recommending an oscope. Those probes are junk and will send you down false paths.

agreed and disagree, agreed if you have an oscope, there's absolutely no reason to have a logic probe. The reason I recommend it is for people who want to get their feet wet but not spend 400+ dollars on an entry level oscope. I logic probe certainly will help you with certain faults and gets you started for a low price. I started with that same logic probe myself and made many fixes with it till I upgrade to a 90s model Tek oscope, which used for about 4 months before upgrading to the OWAN and have been using since.

I also don't recommend people get an ancient 1970s oscope from ebay etc. they are just too BIG and unfriendly to use. Got to get an LCD that you can easily put on your workbench and move around if you want to take it to your cabinet.

the TL866 is okay but the GQ-4X4 is a far better purchase since it actually supports more eproms that are commonly used than the 866 does.

Definitely, the beauty of the TL866A is the PAL/GAL etc programming and logic chip testing which the GQ-4X doesn't do, thats why I list it along with the GQ-4X. But for a EPROM programmer my first choice would be the inexpensive but amazing GQ-4X.

I think the xtronic iron is a sketchy buy. While I am confident it would work fine for most people. I still find he Hakko FX888D a better overall iron with easy to get tips. Plus I don't think most people should have access to a hot air gun as those tend to wreck boards if you don't know 100% what you are doing.


Works fine for me I had a Weller that I LOVED but it broke and I wasn't able to repair it, I got this one because it was inexpensive and had the hot air gun for surface mount work, overall I've been happy with it. Not my Weller, but oh well.

Overall, great list that should help some people get started.


Good comments, thanks for your feedback.

I should add everything on this list is on my workbench with the exception of the multimeter, for that I use a Fluke 117, but I cannot seriously recommend people drop $170 or whatever they are for that when there are so many better uses for the money.
 
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I see no point in recommending a logic probe if you are recommending an oscope. Those probes are junk and will send you down false paths.

I'd say a logic probe is the easiest, cheapest way to start looking at ttl chips, inputs and clocks. A logic probe, schematics and a data sheet can help you fix most ttl problems.
 
Yeah that's why you don't buy a weller!!!

Hakko's are the way to go up to about the $200 range and then the industry standard metcal (thermaltronic for a good knockoff) is the best irons to buy.
 
argh, my solder station just broke... well going to try out the hakko now. if it works as good as my hakko 808 desolder gun, I"ll be happy.

-brian
 
my Weller WES51 has worked out very well for me. I'm actually still on the factory tip too, for whatever reason.

Hakko FR300 can be a game changer, but at about $300 you do still get what you pay for. it's a lot of maintenance. if anyone has advice on how to prevent one of my tips from repeatedly clogging, that would be nice.
 
I'd say a logic probe is the easiest, cheapest way to start looking at ttl chips, inputs and clocks. A logic probe, schematics and a data sheet can help you fix most ttl problems.

I have a really nice TDS3054 scope and sometimes I just can't be bothered to set it up :). So the logic probe really comes in handy if I want to quickly trouble shoot something. Otherwise I'll set up the scope if I really get stuck.
 
Why a windows 10 machine? I've been using an XP machine for YEARS (not for video so much), I find a tablet to be extremely useful when working off/away from the bench.

No helping hands or Panavise? what about a desktop magnifying lamp? or a bench top power supply?

Decent start to the list, I have yet to use my logic probe or need an O-scope (tho i might buy one for another hobby).
 
my Weller WES51 has worked out very well for me. I'm actually still on the factory tip too, for whatever reason.



Hakko FR300 can be a game changer, but at about $300 you do still get what you pay for. it's a lot of maintenance. if anyone has advice on how to prevent one of my tips from repeatedly clogging, that would be nice.



I miss my weller it served me well for 10 years I would have bought another but I wanted to try a SMT combo but then I never used the SMT part.

Oh well just got my hakko today, seems nice
 
List of useful parts to get started fixing arcade games.

Why a windows 10 machine? I've been using an XP machine for YEARS (not for video so much), I find a tablet to be extremely useful when working off/away from the bench.

I generally dislike Microsoft products but windows 10 is amazing compared to xp in every way. For me the main draw of Windows 10 is I do not want to get pwned by just using my computer (I need to use a browser for things like research, PDF viewing, Netflix, pandora or whatever when I'm working) windows xp has no security patches and browsers such as chrome are no longer supported so if you use the internet on your workstation computer your basically owned as your vulnerable to a ton of n-days.

Windows 10 has modern mitigations built it, and gets security patches which is essential for any computer that acesses the Internet .Windows 10 was also a free upgrade as they did that free upgrade for like a year as long as you already had a supported version.

I have a tablet I use too but I like the large screen of having a pc and having dual monitors is great I can put up schematics and watch Netflix etc.

I have helping hands but I never actually use them. I do use a power supply but forgot to put it on there.
 
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Since the 9010A is hard to find and the probes just as difficult...

I picked up an AR81 which is a modern version of the 9010A made by Mark Andrews in England. Doesn't have all the Fluke features yet, but it's getting there. The Z80 Emulator board will be out soon which will allow running the board rather than just probing it.

http://www.jammarcade.net/ar81-tester/
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=UUdEYMmqrhlBwdcWm6Ve6L0w

Has a Logic Comparitor built in (up to 20 pins), Probe that does Analog and Digital, etc... I've been able to eliminate my bench top PC because I have it hooked up to my network and can browse the Internet, view PDF's, etc...
 
Since the 9010A is hard to find and the probes just as difficult...

I picked up an AR81 which is a modern version of the 9010A made by Mark Andrews in England. Doesn't have all the Fluke features yet, but it's getting there. The Z80 Emulator board will be out soon which will allow running the board rather than just probing it.

http://www.jammarcade.net/ar81-tester/
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=UUdEYMmqrhlBwdcWm6Ve6L0w

Has a Logic Comparitor built in (up to 20 pins), Probe that does Analog and Digital, etc... I've been able to eliminate my bench top PC because I have it hooked up to my network and can browse the Internet, view PDF's, etc...

Hey thanks for bring and demonstrating the AR81 at the Banning repair party!. Great piece of equipment. I know a few techs who are itching to buy one now.
 
Since the 9010A is hard to find and the probes just as difficult...

I picked up an AR81 which is a modern version of the 9010A made by Mark Andrews in England. Doesn't have all the Fluke features yet, but it's getting there. The Z80 Emulator board will be out soon which will allow running the board rather than just probing it.

http://www.jammarcade.net/ar81-tester/
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=UUdEYMmqrhlBwdcWm6Ve6L0w

Has a Logic Comparitor built in (up to 20 pins), Probe that does Analog and Digital, etc... I've been able to eliminate my bench top PC because I have it hooked up to my network and can browse the Internet, view PDF's, etc...

Would love to see this in action one day once the Z80 boards are available. Was on the fence for this and the 9010 and ended up going the Fluke direction. Still would be interested what it can do outside of the Fluke.
 
Would love to see this in action one day once the Z80 boards are available. Was on the fence for this and the 9010 and ended up going the Fluke direction. Still would be interested what it can do outside of the Fluke.

I should have the Z80 Emulator by next Banning Repair party
 
Kester 44 is the way to go IMO, for general use. Some folks recommend the clear flux or water wash flux types, which are fine too, but regular rosin core flows well, and honestly the Kester flux doesn't leave as much of a mess as other solders.

The 0.020 is a little thin though. It'll work, but I prefer 0.031. You can get it on ebay for a little cheaper, too:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/182652047074
 
Kester 44 is the way to go IMO, for general use. Some folks recommend the clear flux or water wash flux types, which are fine too, but regular rosin core flows well, and honestly the Kester flux doesn't leave as much of a mess as other solders.

The 0.020 is a little thin though. It'll work, but I prefer 0.031. You can get it on ebay for a little cheaper, too:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/182652047074

Perfect! Just what I was looking for. REP for you!

Thanks!
 
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