Linear or Switching Power Supplies

On a side note - what thread did that quote come from? My searching of this forum only turned up this thread in response.

LeChuck

I don't know if this is exactly the one (link). It was such a repetitive topic for a while I finally cut and pasted one of my responses into notepad. That was what I pasted into the above posting.

For some reason it is one of those topics that keeps coming up.

ken
 
I can understand not using a switcher if it doesn't meet the requirements of the system (e.g. it doesn't supply all the rails needed, or can't handle the load on certain individual rails). Is there some other technical reason beyond this for sticking with the original linear supply? I've seen mention of some games "not liking" switchers, losing high scores, etc - anyone got more details?

I'm all for keeping things as stock as possible btw, so this is just engineering curiosity.

LeChuck

MCR games, particularly Spy Hunter often have a loud HUMMMMMMM in the audio when you use a switcher. Even when you use MCR switcher adapters that claim to be not prone to this issue.
 
MCR games, particularly Spy Hunter often have a loud HUMMMMMMM in the audio when you use a switcher. Even when you use MCR switcher adapters that claim to be not prone to this issue.
I've seen various threads about this, but never any root cause - what exactly is causing the hum?

LeChuck
 
I've seen various threads about this, but never any root cause - what exactly is causing the hum?

LeChuck

i could swear by bad power molex connector pins to the pcb! when i wiggle my spy hunter and journey molex connectors on the the pcb itself i get hums....w/ or w/o a switcher and w/ or w/o the mcr adapter, so i don't think the problem is with the newer adapters at all! i replaced my molex pins(male and female both) and no hum anymore.

just my opinion for what i'm seeing though....not the gospel!!!
 
I guess this will continue to be a mystery for a while.
My Tron with switcher doesn't seem to do this (atleast not that I notice). But Spy Hunter is on my grail list; once I track one down I'll take a look .. I hate unsolved mysteries :D

LeChuck
 
Oh, i hate to step in this, but i'll give you guys my 2 cents worth on the audio hum.
Its the cabinet, or more specifically, the way the wiring is run inside the cab, combined with really aged capacitors. Dc voltage is dc voltage is dc voltage. A good switcher will put out power that's every bit as clean as a linear supply in most cases (or at least good enough to not hear an audio hum).
I've got a tron with one of Mark Spaeth's power adapters, and a spy hunter with the original power supply. On the spy hunter, the power supply pcb has been rebuilt a couple of years ago, but i haven't changed the big caps in the suitcase power supply. They both hum. One is about as bad as the other.
I also have a test bench that i built from scratch. It has a switching power supply and an original mcr dual amp pcb. When i first built it, it had a horrible horrible buzz in it. I finally replaced all of the audio signal wiring with sheilded wiring, and it is now quiet as a mouse. I've been tempted to rerun the audio signal wire in my tron with shielded wire physically seperate from the rest of the wiring, just to see if it helps the hum. I kinda think that the hum may be ac buzz picked up from somewhere in the harness itself. Either way, i know from personal experience it is possible to make an mcr amp quiet with a switcher, the key is (or was in my case) running good quality sheilded wire to keep any a/c bleed off the lines.

Now, having said all that, if i were building a jamma cab to satans hollow adapter, i'd just use an amp from a set of computer speakers driven off the +12v line. Before i built my new test bench, if i wanted to test sound, i just used a set of amplified computer speakers, and alligator clamps between the stereo jack and the pcb. It worked fine without any buzz.
 
Now, having said all that, if i were building a jamma cab to satans hollow adapter, i'd just use an amp from a set of computer speakers driven off the +12v line. Before i built my new test bench, if i wanted to test sound, i just used a set of amplified computer speakers, and alligator clamps between the stereo jack and the pcb. It worked fine without any buzz.

I'm assuming that you would go with computer speakers instead of the original audio PCB for reasons of simplicity, correct?

Anyway, you've convinced me to forget using the original power supply PCB, since it would be difficult to find a Satan's Hollow transformer assembly anyway, and instead use a switching power supply.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
I'm assuming that you would go with computer speakers instead of the original audio PCB for reasons of simplicity, correct?
I agree with recommendation, but it's for technical reasons (not simplicity). MCR has a goofy audio circuit, especially volume control. Some causes are discussed in this thread. But if you're able to use a different audio amplifier with built-in volume control, then you can eliminate a design flaw that adds noise.

Your thread has gotten scattered feedback -- audio issues in an original cabinet, audio issues in a modified original cabinet, audio issues in theory. You're doing something rather unique by running the game on something other than an original cabinet. Eventually you just need to wire-up your parts and see how your solution works.
 
I'm assuming that you would go with computer speakers instead of the original audio PCB for reasons of simplicity, correct?

Anyway, you've convinced me to forget using the original power supply PCB, since it would be difficult to find a Satan's Hollow transformer assembly anyway, and instead use a switching power supply.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Yes, that and they're a good deal easier to come by.
 
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