lightning a coin door alternative

mungrin

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Can someone point me in the right direction or possibly suggest an alternative to light the i reject buttons without using the wiring from a jam a harness? My harness is a little messed up (previous owner did some kind of hack) and I cannot light the bulbs using the 12v or 5v. Is there any way I could retrofit some kind of led light that just plugs into a standard outlet? I tried radioshack and they have led bulbs that use batteries. I want something more long term. Any help or ideas are appreciated.
 
I'd highly recommend de-hacking whatever has been done to the harness and wiring it up properly. Adding more funk to an already hoopty wiring job isn't cool.
 
The 12v and 5v wires coming from the jamma harness look like this and I don't know how I can light the bulbs with this

Ideal-Spade-Terminals-Blue--10-Screw-Size-Wire-Size=-16-14-100PK-770034L815-1471.jpg
 
JAMMA harness doesn't power coin door lights. just saying.

I have a Midway cab that's got Tekken Tag Tournament in it now and the coin door lights don't work. cause the cabinet is wired to use the extra coin door header that Midway boards have. previous incarnations that had isolation transformers generally had another feed coming off the iso that powered coin door lights (6.3V if you're looking at the Williams/Midway variety)

you will have to wire up extra wires coming off your power supply. you can use either the +5 or -5 for coin door lights if I'm not mistaken, and then you'll need another logic ground wire. if you have a screw terminal power supply, this will be an easy mod. if you have a molex type power supply (like my Tekken Tag does) then you'll have to either pop the pins out with a molex extractor or lop all the wires off and redo the connector the power supply connects to. it's not the prettiest approach, but it's pretty much "permanent".

take pictures of your supposed hacked up JAMMA harness.
 
I'm using a PC power supply to power a 60 in 1. Not a normal arcade power supply. I'm new to jam a wiring so please forgive my noobness.
 
If you're using the PC power supply, then you can use it to power the coin door lights.

I'm still not sure what the question is. You have coin door lights. They need power in order to work. Hook them up :)

The PC power supply has plenty of current available to power the lights. Occasionally running lights off a switcher is a bad idea because of the draw - but a PC supply has ample capacity.

-Ian
 
As mentioned the JAMMA harness is intended to bring power from the power supply to the game PCB, and signals from various places to the PCB, and send audio and video to the speakers and monitor.... coin door lights are not in the realm of what a "JAMMA harness" will do for you. If you have a totally bare/stripped cabinet, with just a PC PS & a JAMMA harness purchaced from who-knows-where, then you're on your own to provide wiring for the coin door lights (and coin counters, but I doubt you care about that).

It can be done with either 5V or 12V, if proper bulbs are chosen. You will need a GND wire as well. These will need to be wired from the PS (along with the JAMMA harness, which will also need those voltages from the PS) to the coin door; ideally with a connector in between to facilitate removal in the future.

Google terms like "coin door lights" and you'll find many pages explaining some of the details, such as this one: http://retroblast.arcadecontrols.com/articles/coindoor.html
 
OK. Thanks. I think I'm getting it now. So I guess my question now is how do I power coin door lights from a PC power supply?
 
These are the wires that were originally hooked up to my coin door. The molex connections do not fit my PC power supply.

IMG_20111005_104656.jpg
 
The molex connections do not fit my PC power supply.

Uh... yeah. They're not going to. But that's where the soldering iron comes in. Either find a suitable mating plug for one of the PC power supply connectors to put on your harness (easily scavenged from a dead hard disk, or one of those fan "Y" adapters), or just cut and splice.

Depending on how you want to connect the lamps, and what kind of lamps you use, will dictate which voltage you connect them to.

-Ian
 
The little pink single-wire connectors are called "quick disconnects" or "QDs". There appear to be 8 of them. 4 were likely connected to the lamps (2 to each lamp). The other 4 were likely connected to either the microswitches under the coin mech, or to "lockout coils" which prevented the mech from accepting a coin when power was off (or whenever the PCB didn't want to accept a coin).

There's also a 2-position Molex connector which appeared to connect to something on the coin door--not sure what it might have been.

On the other end appears to be a matrix (grid) style Molex connector. I can't really tell from the pic, but I'm guessing it's either a 6-position or 9-position 0.093" connector.

You could re-install that harness on the coin door, re-connect the QDs up to the lamps, and trace the proper wires back to the Molex connector. To mate with it, you'd need to get some wire, crimp on the proper pin terminals using a crimping tool (not the common type of crimping tool used to crimp on QDs), and insert the terminated wires into the proper mating Molex housing (to mate with the lines you traced from the lamps). On the other end, you'd splice into whatever type of connector mates with your PS, at the proper voltage for whatever bulbs are in the sockets.

Or you could leave that harness out of it, and make you own wiring from the PS to the lamps.
 
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