Let's save a very rough Robotron.

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Leather texture t-mold on, starting to clean up the coin doors.

It looks like the front panels that clip into the reject buttons are missing. Does anyone know if there are reproduction fronts for these? They are not the FP-27-1038 found on pinball sites, those are too tall.

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My buddy hooked me up with a zombie g07 that had been buried in his shed for years. Tube is burninated but we only need the yoke and rings.

I transferred everything over along with the rebuilt g07 chassis but as I suspected I have blown the 1.25a small fuse (tested it out of circuit) so I'm waiting for some pigtails to arrive. Hopefully my tripping over my own shoes laces hasn't caused any other damage.

Sigh. 😔

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If the tube is toast and you're junking it, don't toss the frame. That neck guard was used on a # of G07s for games like Dragon's Lair and Space Ace, to name a couple.

Scott C.
 
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My multi Williams cab actually has original glass and marquee so I'm going to replace those with repro and move the originals to the dedicated cab.

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There we go. Pretty happy with the outcome here despite the general condition the machine was in. Now I just have to address my monitor woes.
 
Back to trouble shooting the monitor.

The yoke I had donated to me had been sitting out for a long time so I'm going to do some continuity and short checks.

On yoke
Grey Red 57.2ohms
White brown 2.5 ohms
Grey center 29 ohms
Red Center 29 ohms

Connector
Grey Red open
White brown open

Connector to yoke continuity
Grey good
White good
Red good
Brown good
 
Testing some components that seem to come up in other g07 vert collapse threads.

Out of circuit…

FR401 - 69ohms
R522 - Bridged wire (?)
R419 - 2,2339ohms
R420 - 6.7ohms
IC501 pin 9 to ground - Good
 
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Trying to test the x401 and x402 with my multimeter using ohm settings. Out of circuit

X402 -
B to E - 1.26kohm
B to C - 7ohm
E to C - 1.26kohm

X401 -

Can only get readings across B - E everything else seems open.

I pulled the 2SD1138's from three old none-working G07 chassis I had but none of them had continuity between B and C so I guess i will order some and see.
 
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I would use the diode setting. Red lead on B , black lead takes turns touching E and C. Should read .400-.500 ish if they are good.
 
Still fiddling. Not out of the woods yet. Checked the D1138s like you said and installed ones that passed. Also put a regular. 2.2 in c401
 
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Hrmmmm it's stable and behaving on the TPG but this is the best I can get on the game board. Horizontal freq is ultra twitchy
 
Hrmm. Robotron is positive sync, i thought that was inline for the main Pinout on the G07, isn't the separate sync block negative? Old brain can't remember.
 
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