OP
OP
Griffin
Well-known member
Thanks. Here's a quick walk around the bar which is outside the Theater.
Let's save a very rough Robotron.
- Thread starter Griffin
- Start date
Who is the manufacturer of the theatre chairs?
I like your taste in movies as well as your popsicle skills.
OP
OP
Griffin
Well-known member
Well thanks, all blasts from the past which is the best part about a home theater, watching all the classics the way they were meant to be seen.
OP
OP
Griffin
Well-known member
They are Fusion Jive seats, I don't know if they are still in business or not.
OP
OP
Griffin
Well-known member
Time to throw down the first coat of heavy primer. This Upol brand is my go to when I'm doing 3D printing so I'm sure it will perform just as well on cabinet work.
OP
OP
Griffin
Well-known member
First coat of filler on, now I can see the sins where I missed and can go back to catch them. Not exactly fun is it, but the end result makes it worth it.
OP
OP
Griffin
Well-known member
OP
OP
Griffin
Well-known member
Here is the plug I have
Vs the G07 molex
Vs the G07 molex
OP
OP
Griffin
Well-known member
I referred to the above images and have this order now which I think is right.
No neck glow or static though, I may have blown a fuse as things seem too quiet now.
No neck glow or static though, I may have blown a fuse as things seem too quiet now.
I'm not certain on the pairings. Green and yellow are typically a pair, red and blue are typically a pair. What yoke is that?
Ok,after reading through the thread…..it looks like you may be plugging a g07 chassis, into a k4900 yoke?
I don't think that works…the tubes are compatible, but I don't think the yokes are.
I don't think that works…the tubes are compatible, but I don't think the yokes are.
I don't think the OP has any idea what they are doing.
mecha
Well-known member
I've never seen someone trash K4900s like that either lol. must be a bigger G07 fan than even tron guy. but yes I don't think the yokes match at all.
there's multiple people that fix K4900s, there's kind of no excuse for not using it.
@Griffin is the signal plug wired for negative H+V sync, cause the Williams games all use positive H+V sync. post pictures of the signal plug. otherwise your cabinet restore looks good, I probably need to read the old posts closer to understand the popsicle stick joke.
OP
OP
Griffin
Well-known member
Thanks for the replies everyone. Yes I am absolutely terrible with monitors.
It's a 4900 yoke, so that seems to be the issue. I'll have dig around and see if I can find a compatible yoke.
The signal plug is the regular Williams positive sync.
It's a 4900 yoke, so that seems to be the issue. I'll have dig around and see if I can find a compatible yoke.
The signal plug is the regular Williams positive sync.
OP
OP
Griffin
Well-known member
This is the only other spare yoke I have which also has the 4 pin connector.
OP
OP
Griffin
Well-known member
Moving on with the cabinet side of things, I didn't get much time this weekend so I just worked on getting the joysticks apart.
The metal sleeves of the original rubbers didn't want to to shift, despite several long soaks in WD40. I even tried to get my baring pullers on them but they just didn't have the right reach to make it around the metal plate and still be able to grab the inner sleeve.
In the end I just accepted my fate, cut the rubbers and used a dremel and griding disk to cut away the old sleeves. Ordered some new ones from ArcadeShop.
They should clean up well enough.
Now the CP is clear of the sticks I can start fixing that up.
The metal sleeves of the original rubbers didn't want to to shift, despite several long soaks in WD40. I even tried to get my baring pullers on them but they just didn't have the right reach to make it around the metal plate and still be able to grab the inner sleeve.
In the end I just accepted my fate, cut the rubbers and used a dremel and griding disk to cut away the old sleeves. Ordered some new ones from ArcadeShop.
They should clean up well enough.
Now the CP is clear of the sticks I can start fixing that up.
OP
OP
Griffin
Well-known member
Some more pieces arrived. A beautiful metal repro speaker cover which fits perfectly, and of course the good old leather texture t-mold.
Here's a shot of the awesome work from @tron guy on a very nicely built g07 (which seems a bit wasted on me right now
but we'll get there).
Replaced:
Flyback
105* cap kit (10,000-20,000 hour caps)
105* filter cap
HOT
B+ pot
Main chassis pots, including 2 additional pots for fine-tuning the image.....replacing the jumper prongs.
Neck board color adjustment pots
FR401, C402, R908, as well as a bunch of parts behind the heat sinks that are almost always out of spec. R512, R517, R522, R414, R415, also R525.
Both fuses, other small parts as needed.
Neck board socket, and the wire that connects the socket to the focus block.
Here's a shot of the awesome work from @tron guy on a very nicely built g07 (which seems a bit wasted on me right now
but we'll get there).Replaced:
Flyback
105* cap kit (10,000-20,000 hour caps)
105* filter cap
HOT
B+ pot
Main chassis pots, including 2 additional pots for fine-tuning the image.....replacing the jumper prongs.
Neck board color adjustment pots
FR401, C402, R908, as well as a bunch of parts behind the heat sinks that are almost always out of spec. R512, R517, R522, R414, R415, also R525.
Both fuses, other small parts as needed.
Neck board socket, and the wire that connects the socket to the focus block.
Last edited:
