Lethal Enforcers help!

doesbenfoldfive

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Got a Lethal Enforcers cab FOR FREEEEE! for working on 9 cabs and getting them back to working order.

Issues
-Left gun fires and the screen blinks, but it doesn't actually shoot.
-Right gun smells like electrical fire and started to smoke the last time it was plugged in.
-Right player button does nothing. (I switched the two switches (1st player start/2nd player start) The good switch didn't make the right player button do anything.
-No sound. (probably just turned down, haven't looked into how to adjust it yet)

Please help!
 
Unplug the smoking gun
Disassemble it to see what's burning.

Get the manual.
Read it.

Use test mode.
 
The gun will probably have the wiring inside of it shorted together, either from where the case of the gun pinched the wires when they assembled it last, or where the cable is able to 'twist' inside the case, stressing and cutting the wires. The 5v and ground are probably touching together, and that's where your smoke is coming from. I've never seen one smoke, though... so it's pretty strange, if you asked me if 5v to ground would smoke I'd say 'no' but that's all the voltage that's inside the gun!

The left gun probably has a bad optic in it, or it's cracked off of the pcb, or something. You'll have to get inside that one too.

The start button is likely just a broken wire, or it's not making good contact at the edge connector of the pcb.
 
Also, check the monitor... clean the monitor and mirror, and try turning the brightness up. And make sure the lens on the guns are present, and clean.

The guns need to see the monitor well... and if the optics are dirty or the monitor too dim, it won't work. And check the +5V to make sure it's adjusted properly (~5.1V at the board, at least 5.0V at the gun).

DogP
 
Also, check the monitor... clean the monitor and mirror, and try turning the brightness up. And make sure the lens on the guns are present, and clean.

The guns need to see the monitor well... and if the optics are dirty or the monitor too dim, it won't work. And check the +5V to make sure it's adjusted properly (~5.1V at the board, at least 5.0V at the gun).

DogP

Will do, thanks!

How/where do I check the +5V? I'm guessing with my multimeter (set to what?)... Stupid question, eh?
 
Will do, thanks!

How/where do I check the +5V? I'm guessing with my multimeter (set to what?)... Stupid question, eh?

Multimeter set to DC Volts, check with the red probe (in the V hole on the multimeter) on +5V and the black probe (in the COM hole on the multimeter) on GND.

You can check it at the JAMMA connector with black on pin 1, red on pin 3, and at the gun connector with black on pin 2, red on pin 4. +5V is usually a red wire, GND is usually a black wire.

DogP
 
Multimeter set to DC Volts, check with the red probe (in the V hole on the multimeter) on +5V and the black probe (in the COM hole on the multimeter) on GND.

You can check it at the JAMMA connector with black on pin 1, red on pin 3, and at the gun connector with black on pin 2, red on pin 4. +5V is usually a red wire, GND is usually a black wire.

DogP

+5.17v to Jamma connector.

I'm checking where the gun plugs to the board with the black on the second from the top and red forth from the top and I don't seem to be getting a reading.

So what's that mean?

Both guns register that I am shooting and use ammo, just don't actually hit anything.
 
Nevermind. Got 5.1 on both player gun connectors on the board.

Now what? Something in the guns? I know when I move around player two, there's something small rattling around inside.
 
9 times out if 10 when it shoots but does not register it is the optics. Depending on what type of gun you have it might be easier to find working replacement guns then replace the optics. Optics run about $23. Then you have to open up the gun and replace them. It is a big hassle and takes time. Decent working guns can be found for $40ish. It takes 5 minutes to replace the entire gun.
 
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You'll definitely want to open the gun and find out what's rattling. And make sure the lens (magnifying glass looking thing) is in place. I don't remember the phototransistor being that expensive... IIRC I ordered a few from Mouser a few years ago for <$1 each.

DogP
 
I think the phototransistor IS pretty expensive, but you can probably use a different part number. So like if you order the one that's advertised as for that gun, it's $10, but you can find the same exact thing on mouser for $4 or something. I think I tried to track them down last year but eventually found a working board in my stash so never looked into it anymore.

The thing rattling around inside your gun, actually may be the phototransistor broken off the board. Happens frequently.
 
Took them apart.

-Rattling was just little plastic pieces that broke off inside the gun around where the screws hold the gun together.
-P2 has a burnt rectangular part on the board that is black and split open.
-P1 board appears fine.

I adjusted my monitor with contrast and the color knobs. I don't see one for just brightness. None of this helped.
Gun still just shoots and uses ammo, just doesn't ever hit.

Pics coming in a minute.
 
Here's pics of both sides of the boards.

P1 on top. P2 on bottom.

PsgwS.jpg


Td90M.jpg
 
Looks like a 22uF tantalum cap that smoked... I'd personally just remove it and try again. It'd be a good idea to replace it, but should work just fine without it (it's just a bulk capacitor, added because there's a long wire run from the board to the gun). They sometimes short circuit on their own, but a lot of times they explode when the voltage is reversed.

To turn up the brightness on the monitor, there's usually a brightness knob, as well as the "screen" control on the flyback. What is the model of the monitor?

DogP
 
Looks like a 22uF tantalum cap that smoked... I'd personally just remove it and try again. It'd be a good idea to replace it, but should work just fine without it (it's just a bulk capacitor, added because there's a long wire run from the board to the gun). They sometimes short circuit on their own, but a lot of times they explode when the voltage is reversed.

To turn up the brightness on the monitor, there's usually a brightness knob, as well as the "screen" control on the flyback. What is the model of the monitor?

DogP


Wells-Gardner25K7184

Just 3 color cutoffs and 3 color drives. There is a board that is attached to a long wire to the chassis with...
-v-pos
-blk level
-contrast
-h-pos
-v-hold
-v-size

there's also a h-hold on the chassis not wired to the separate board like the others.
 
Wells-Gardner25K7184

Just 3 color cutoffs and 3 color drives. There is a board that is attached to a long wire to the chassis with...
-v-pos
-blk level
-contrast
-h-pos
-v-hold
-v-size

there's also a h-hold on the chassis not wired to the separate board like the others.

You can usually adjust the brightness enough using the Black level and contrast. You may need to adjust the screen know on the flyback a bit. Also, make sure the monitor screen is nice and clean. They get dusty on LE since it uses a mirror and the screen faces up.

The top pcb looks like it should work ok without modification. Check the legs of the phototransistor to make sure the arent loose.
 
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