This may help:
"there is a PC board in the bottom cabinet that controls
the flippers. it's bolted to the inside left side of the cabinet
usually. there are TWO transistors that control each flipper: a TIP36
for the high powered side, and a TIP102 (i believe) for the low
powered side. i had the same problem as above once; it was because
from lifting and lowering the playfield, somehow the TIP36 got
bent and broke a leg. replacing the TIP36 fixed the problem. "
http://groups.google.com/group/rec....gst&q=data+east+flipper+coil#2362608fc1f96c95
and:
There's actually a very nice write-up on the Theory of Operation for
these solid-state flippers in your game's schematics- one of the pages
right before or after the schematic for the solid state flipper board.
Very definitely worth reading.
In short, when you press a flipper button switch, the game sends high DC
current through the coil for an instant, then shuts it off and runs
about 9 volts AC current through to hold the flipper up. Really a neat
setup, and when you've gotten familliar with the circuitry, their not
too hard to repair or troubleshoot.
Check all your fuses first on the solid state flipper board. If ok,
check your main solenoid power fuse in the backbox (5 amp), and then any
secondary solenoid power fuses on the PPB board. The DC power for the
pull current on the flippers comes from standard coil supply voltage
which is up in the backbox- not on the SS flipper board. The 9VAC does
come from the SS flipper board, so each current has a different source-
this isn't real apparent unless you've backtracked your way through the
schematics.
Another thing to watch out for with DE solid-state flippers, is a
flipper coil staying energized (won't come back down after button is
released). This can be due to a bad (open) or broken diode on the
flipper coil.