LED Questions, differences in locations

doodlesdaddy

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I have been researching here and the internet about the LED #44 replacement bulbs and am trying to understand the flickering. Correct me if Im wrong, but if I get the newer lamp driver board, does this fix the flickering? Also, some of the LED suppliers have different #44 bulbs for different locations, such as the backbox, the GI, and the switching lights. Why is there a difference? I thought they were all the same, meaning #44(or #47) worked at all the light locations. Somebody please explain the differences to me.


Thanks

I was considering changing to all LED and adding colors to enhance my game
 
You have to be careful about WHAT lights the LED driver board fixes. Usually that keeps the insert lights from blinking, but you may also need to modify the GI circuit with a rectifier as well. What machine do you have that you are considering them for?

The different types of bulbs are all about the illumination pattern to them, but a 44/47 LED will fit into any bayonet socket. Same with the 555 LED's. They just shine the light differently. A 170 degree light will shine pretty much everywhere, while a 40 degree light is a narrow beam. Which one you choose depends on where on the playfield it is. Frosted ones are also wide area, but have a frosted covering that keeps you from staring at a bare pinpoint of light.... great when they are exposed and you can see the light when playing. 90 degree LED's shine in a smaller area, which is great for behind inserts because you can focus all the light emitted through the insert instead of it shining into the cabinet where you can't see it anyway.

Color choice though is CRITICAL to how they look. The wrong "white" can make the whole machine look terrible. If your game is predominantly red/yellow/orange/dark green artwork then you'll want the warm whites. If you're mostly white/blue/light green then get the cool white.

-Hans
 
I been trying to research this info as well. At the moment my plan is to LED the pop bumpers and lights under the plastics. I found info that said to use 40 for small inserts, 90 for medium, and 170 for large. I don't know which I have since I only have two sizes. At this point I don't plan to do the insert lights. What I couldn't find was what works best under the plastic when you can see the blub and need it to shine all around in general. Of course you have now answered that for me, which I appreciate. When I do get around to doing lights in the inserts, how do I tell what size inserts I have? Also I keep seeing the different angles of LED, but then I come across ones that are called High Power, Super bright, Ultra bright. Is there any point to having ones that are brighter then the standard LED?
 
Honestly, I rarely see a need for the extra brightness styles in applications like this. They are BRIGHT.... great for use as a flashlight, but not for an indicator. I'd try the regular styles first, and if you see a couple areas that you think should be brighter then replace it with a super-bright or whatever name they are using. One spot that I CAN see them being important is for pop bumpers that don't have transparent caps, which they make a few styles that brighten that up.

For the insert sizes, I'd skip even trying the 40 degree bulbs for inserts and go straight for the 90's as a minimum. This should be fine for most circles, triangles and other standard inserts. The longer lightning bolts I might go with the 170's, but I think that 90's should be fine for the vast majority of inserts. And ALWAYS get color matched for inserts if available.
 
That answers a lot of my questions as well. I might just get a few of the frosted ones and some 90s and place them around and see what they look like. If I dont get the new style lamp board, becuase mine works fine, I gather I need to get some of the noflix or something like that? Some are AC/DC so I would assume those work anywhere? Because they are not polarized? The backbox and GI lighting is basically on all the time, and I think it is AC? So, is there a problem with that circuit flickering? I know I just asked a bunch more questions, I just wanna be kinda confident before I spend the dollars.

Thanks
 
You've got a Paragon, correct?

I'll have to look at the schematics to see what the GI circuit runs. I'm not that familiar with how those are run, I've focused mainly on Williams since that's what I own.

-Hans

Edit: Yep, Paragon is running AC power for the GI circuit. If you use polarized LED's you may see some flickering if you really look for it, but the non-polarized shouldn't. Cointaker's are now non-polarized, and I believe that the ablaze ones sold by pinball life are too. If you do see some flickering, it's really cheap and easy to modify the circuit by adding a rectifier bridge before the lamps..... like $5 and 4 wire connections easy. This converts it over to DC, and the problem goes bye-bye.

The noflix PLUS led's are a great design, and theoretically would work anywhere with no conversion needed. But the LED's are pricey, and shipping to the USA is atrociously expensive (40 Euros)

-Hans
 
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Appreciate the info on that.....I might just order a couple and try them in a few spots to see if I like them. I am particularly interested in the frosted ones, because I have a few places where I can actually see the bulb, and I think a frosted one would look better.

The ones on Ebay dont seem to say if they are polarized or not, but looks like non polorized is what I need. Thanks again
 
I decided to just get regular bulbs, #47s in different colors. Pinball Life sells them.. I would like leds, but the cost just doesnt seem worth it, for as little as this game is on, I think the regular bulbs will last plenty long. Ill post pictures of a before, with all #47 regular lights, and the after, with #47 colors in different spots. I just thought it would be cool to highlight the different game playfield areas with colors, i.e. blue for the waterfall area, red for the Valley of Demons, Ect. It might look bad, who knows, but wont be too much of a money waste with regular bulbs if it is....Stay tuned, I should have the new bulbs maybe Monday....
 
update!!!

I got colored bulbs, #47s......and installed them in different locations. It took a little trial and error, but I love it now. It is obviously not as bright different places, but way way more colorful. Check out the pics and let me know what you think....maybe not ORIGINAL, but different, and I like it so thats what matters, right?
 

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Go here for LEDs. They have the largest selection and best prices. I bought a bunch from them at a show. I have many in my three machines.

No offense to PPL, I buy there on a reg basis, but their 44-47 is a single LED and not very bright. Coin Taker has better options.

http://www.cointaker.com/


To me, LEDs are not good for GI, their too distracting. I put all of mine under inserts or behind things, so things "pop" better. I still use incadesents for GI on my machines. Possibly warm white LED for GI, I've never tried that, but blue white for LED GI does ntot work for me.
 
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I'm in the process of outfitting my second machine with LED's from Cointaker. They have a excellent product. I also only use the LED's under inserts or for certain specific illumination needs. The GI has remained incandescent bulbs and always will.

Use Cointaker.. they are good people and have a good product
 
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