Leaf adjustment specifications??

sohchx

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I would like to check and adjust if necessary the leafs on all of my pins but have no idea which leafs have to be set to what if they are out of spec. Is there some sort of guide that specifies what the leafs should be set to for certain components,or a particular machine?? I am having an issue with a machine and think that this may be my problem. Thanks
 
I assume you are talking about an EM machine where the switches drive the logic, and not just scoring switches?

I think the generally accepted principal among those of us who haven't been doing this our whole lives is - if it ain't broke, don't touch it. Randomly re-gapping a bunch of switches in order to "improve" a machine almost always results in something else not working. A few people are skilled enough to take this approach - I'd say most of us aren't.

If you want to share a specific problem, maybe someone can lead you to *specific* switches to check.

If it's just a scoring switch on a more modern machine, I just eyeball the gap and test the switch with my fingers, a rolled ball, etc. etc. Adjust as necessary and try again.
 
Yes an EM machine, I apologise for not being specific. I have no plans on randomly adjusting leafs,I just want to verify visually that all of mine are in spec. I plan to post my seperate issue in another thread.
 
I honestly don't know if there is a "spec". I'm sure there is, but I doubt too many are measuring the gap with a micrometer.

As a first step, I work the plates on the relays to visually verify the make/break operation works as intended. Beyond that, I just kind of eyeball them for twisted, mangled leafs, etc. If a problem and a schematic leads me to a particular switch, then I'll clean and adjust it. But I do it by feel I guess, and not so much by a 1/16th measurement or whatever.

So ya, I realize I'm being no help here. Whatever you do, make sure and tighten those screws on the switch stacks before you adjust.
 
I adjust mine on EM's so they're about 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch out(by eye). EMs play slower, so I find hitting a sling etc with a switch that's well out from that often has me not scoring at all with a softer hit...that is still very much a hit.

Adjust the outer blade, leaving the inner blade nice and straight, along with it's damping blade(if there is one).
I use a pair of needle nose pliers to ever so slightly bend the blade near the switch stack, it doesn't take much movement at all, so be VERY gentle.

If you're cleaning contacts, be gentle too...use nothing coarser than 400 grit(I haven't EVER heard of this "Flexstone" spoken of, and people look at me funny when I have asked for it). Clean the contacts evenly too, keeping them straight and hold them not too firmly together when you do.

WHen it comes down to it though, if they're working and you aren't 100% comfortable cleaning/adjusting...leave em alone!
 
I honestly don't know if there is a "spec". I'm sure there is, but I doubt too many are measuring the gap with a micrometer.

As a first step, I work the plates on the relays to visually verify the make/break operation works as intended. Beyond that, I just kind of eyeball them for twisted, mangled leafs, etc. If a problem and a schematic leads me to a particular switch, then I'll clean and adjust it. But I do it by feel I guess, and not so much by a 1/16th measurement or whatever.

So ya, I realize I'm being no help here. Whatever you do, make sure and tighten those screws on the switch stacks before you adjust.

This is what I do too. And, as someone else mentioned, don't adjust if it's working!!! Generally an EM problem arises when one switch out of the dozens and dozens isn't opening or closing properly. Adjusting all of them for the heck of it WILL cause more problems where there were none before.

As for cleaning, I would suggest cleaning the flipper switches--BOTH the flipper button switches AND the eos switches. Why? Because the high-voltage current that drives the power stroke goes through these contacts directly. (Unlike modern flippers that are opto switched or electronically activated using a low-V switch signal.) Often, weak flippers are caused by poor electrical connection through these contacts.

Best way to clean these contacts (if necessary--they sometimes pit or become misaligned) is to first align the contact surfaces by eye to be parallel and gap them (maybe 1/16" apart or so). Then fold a piece of very fine emery paper between them and squeeze the contacts together while you pull the emery paper between them. This will help flatten the contacts so they meet flush when closed. (Also gap and clean the pop bumper switches this way, for the same reasons.)

For other switches, I use a fresh dollar bill or non-glossy business card dragged between the contacts while pinching them together to clean without abrading or leaving residue.
 
I wouldn't use anything that abrasive, except maybe on the flipper button/eos/pop bumper contacts.

It's the same file that most pinball parts retailers sell. I also use one and it works great.
Glennon
 
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