Large relpacement cap on chasis not a good fit

Dervacumen

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I have a chasis that I've not been able to identify exactly, though I believe it is a Kortek. The name on the PCB is JC-TRON. Anyway, I am recapping it and had to pull the really large capacitor in the lower right corner in the attached picture. I found a replacement with the same ratings, but the circumference is a little larger so it doesn't fit down all the way because of a resistor and also a screw on the side of the chasis.

The terminals do extend through the pcb and you can see them barely protruding on the back side, so I'm sure I can get them soldered in okay.

My question is, what should I put under the capacitor to insulate the exposed terminals in the gap between the pcb and capacitor, if anything? I also have a little concern that the edge of the capacitor overlaps one resistor ever so slightly and touches a screw. Will these cause problems?

The pic with the brown rectangle is a side view of the capacitor seated as far down as it will go.

If this isn't a good fit (literally) can I just use another cap with the same uf rating and higher voltage than the one I pulled out? I think i can get one of those with a smaller diameter.
 

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Yeh that's a Kortek monitor that has been rebranded.

That brown capacitor you got is way too big physically. I would have rejected it myself. Look for a different capacitor manufacturer since capacitors can be made in different physical sizes.

The common rule-of-thumb in regards to capacitors is the microfard value (a.k.a. "uf" or "mfd" ) needs to be the same, but you can sub a higher voltage rating. Keep in mind the higher the voltage rating of the capacitor, the bigger the physical size of it (varies by manufacturer).

There is a way you can use the cap you bought (that is assuming it is the same value as the old one). Mount it away and off the board. Solder a couple of short lengths of insulated wires to the capacitor terminals. Drill two holes in the side metal frame of the chassis above those screws in that fifth picture above where the capacitor is now. Slide a wire tie (or two if not long enough to reach around the cap) and tie it to the frame. The capacitor does not care what position it operates in so it can be mounted horizontally or vertically.
 
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Yeh that's a Kortek monitor that has been rebranded.

That brown capacitor you got is way too big physically. I would have rejected it myself. Look for a different capacitor manufacturer since capacitors can be made in different physical sizes.

The common rule-of-thumb in regards to capacitors is the microfard value (a.k.a. "uf" or "mfd" ) needs to be the same, but you can sub a higher voltage rating. Keep in mind the higher the voltage rating of the capacitor, the bigger the physical size of it (varies by manufacturer).

There is a way you can use the cap you bought (that is assuming it is the same value as the old one). Mount it away and off the board. Solder a couple of short lengths of insulated wires to the capacitor terminals. Drill two holes in the side metal frame of the chassis above those screws in that fifth picture above where the capacitor is now. Slide a wire tie (or two if not long enough to reach around the cap) and tie it to the frame. The capacitor does not care what position it operates in so it can be mounted horizontally or vertically.

sounds pretty intricate. may be better off just finding a different cap before you go drilling holes and attempting jumpers on a large filter cap. :p

good luck to you sir.
 
Thanks for the input. I live an hour from the capacitor place so I didn't want to go back if I didn't have to. As luck would (or not) have it my car broke down while I was there last week and I had it towed to a shop in the area. I'm picking up the car today. Guess I get to stop by the electronics store again.

Now that I have the original out it'll be easier. It only cost $2.00. I'll just skip my french fries next time I'm out.
 
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