That sucks I have boxes of stuff I've bought supposedly working that I haven't gotten around to trying yet disheartening for sure. I've had pretty good luck using a heat gun to get old paper off, not that that helps you now.
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Oh, it definitely improved. I just need to have patience to run through the steps a couple more times. The sanding really did get the scratches out, but now there are swirl marks everywhere. For some reason I didn't get a picture of the after yet.I have a choplifter I bought about an hour away from me. When I got it home the bezel was missing. I drove all the way back looking for it I found it only a few blocks from where I got the game it was by the side of the road. It's all scratched up so I just had a blank one cut from tap plastics. I still have it though if your process works I think I'll try it.
Some of my favorite NES games were Kung fu, Trojan and Section Z.Also kind of off topic and not to hijack this thread, but I learned recently that Trojan was a spiritual successor to Kung Fu Master.
It makes sense when you see the gameplay style of both games. I never put two and two together. Takashi Nishiyama who designed Moon Patrol (1982) and Kung Fu Master (1984) left Irem to work for Capcom and designed Trojan (1986). About that same time, both Kung Fu Master and Trojan were ported to NES/Famicom. He eventually went on to SNK to design the Fatal Fury/KOF series. Really prolific game designer.
Kung Fu (Master) was one of the first video games I ever played and Trojan was definitely one of the first arcade games I remember playing. Good memories. Hope you get the PCB fixed!


Gonna preface this with saying im not an expert at all.Checked the schematics. It looks like the chip at 2C takes care of that directional movement and if I'm reading this correctly, it's chip leg 17? I'm not a big schematic guy. But I checked that whole area. I guess what can I do? Run a jumper wire from this leg to the test point on the edge connector?
Yeah, my previous post states they are not socketed so I'd have to desolder both of those little chips. I guess I can try to steal one of these from another board and piggyback it.Gonna preface this with saying im not an expert at all.
it does look like you have the correct chip. There are a couple of components in between it and the edge connector. A resistor and something else, just keep that in mind
If 2C is indeed socketed, you can try swapping it with 1C. The label says its the same type of chip (244 - confirm this) but for player 2.
Ah, damn I misread sorry. A logic probe would be handy in this.Yeah, my previous post states they are not socketed so I'd have to desolder both of those little chips. I guess I can try to steal one of these from another board and piggyback it.
In test mode, yes.Ah, damn I misread sorry. A logic probe would be handy in this.
Does player 2 directions work ok?
Ok. Piggybacking isn't always a reliable test, but if you can get one from a different board, its worth a shot. If it still doesn't work, I wouldn't necessarily still rule out 2C as being good.In test mode, yes.

