kspiff's Battlezone repair log

kspiff

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I'm going to use this post to keep my thoughts collected as I (futilely) attempt to repair the BZ I got from Mod.

Work done so far:

Scraped solder off analog vector generator PCB's edge contacts. May replace the contacts but for now it will conduct.
Repaired edge connector w/ epoxy and replaced bad +5V split pin.
Replaced faulty VR3 (+15V 1A voltage regulator) w/ NTE cross-reference match.

Known:
Red light comes on on the aux board, analog vector generator, and G05 chassis.
Good voltages from ARII.
Good voltages on analog vector generator PCB transistor outputs for VR1, VR2, VR3, Q4, Q5, Q6.
Fluorescents are dead.

Known to-do list:

Replace 2 leg levelers on bottom of cabinet (including mounts).
Replace G05 fuses F600 and F700 (2A 250V fast blow).
Replace components of lights fixtures (new bulbs, starters, ballasts, possibly new sockets).
Replace left handle + button plug, right handle's button bezel (parts in transit).
Replace start button/cone (cone in transit).
Replace coin door parts (some parts in transit).

Sooner or later:

Monitor get well kit.
Switching PSU for common voltages (maybe).
Reproduce step.
Reproduce back door.
General cabinet touch-ups (repaint black areas, touch up edges, maybe new molding).

Parts wanted:

Archer repro CPO.
Brasington high score save kit.
Volume pot + mounting bracket.
Metal bracket that helps secure periscope at top of cabinet (identical to the metal bracket that secures the periscope by the CP).
Warning sticker that goes underneath the step.
Original manual / schematics in Fine-Mint condition.

EDIT: Well I had a stupid question here, but I figured out my mistake. Since I can't delete the post I decided to turn it into a sort of BZ repair log.
 
OK, looking for some opinions:

If I were to laminate the cardboard bezel, would the blacklight glare/flare off of the laminate? Or would the translucent mirror mask this effect even if it did?

Maybe I could tape the bezel face-down to some large pieces of posterboard, have it laminated together, cut away the excess posterboard, and effectively get a 1-sided lamination?

My bezel has a couple rips and is fairly brittle so in the very least it needs some touch-ups and a lot of repair/shipping tape on the back.
 
Done:
Repaired blacklit bezel.
Repaired fluorescent fixtures.

Parts needed:
Black hex/hex security bolts for periscope.
Set of leg leveler mounting plates.
 
Laminating the bezel to preserve it shouldn't have an affect it at all, but don't use a real glossy laminate either. The mirror is dark enough to buffer any kind of shine. I'm just finishing one of these machines and found the joysticks to be a pain in the ass and expensive too. Good luck and keep an open wallet on this one.
 
I just went ahead and strapped the bezel with some shipping tape (on the back of the bezel of course) and closed up the gashes w/ some wood glue. I stapled it back in place and I'm back in business as far as the top half of the game is concerned. Looks nice w/ the lighting on, can't wait to see it in action.

[plug]I managed to get the remainder of the missing parts I needed from Mylstar actually, he had some nice used stuff and gave me a good deal.[/plug] It's on the way now, only stuff I will need to complete the unit after it gets here will be a volume pot + mounting bracket, front step, back door, and a retainer bar for the top of the periscope piece.
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If I can manage to repair the boards myself this project will have been very cheap since I just traded a bunch of parts I didn't have much use for. That seems unlikely, though, as after I replace the non-working xsistors and caps on the game PCBs, verify the EPROMs, and install a get well kit on the monitor, I may have little else I can try due to lack of knowledge. I may try to figure out how to use a logic probe for this project so as to be able to troubleshoot ICs and CPUs and all that more effectively though.
 
If you have the retainer bar from the bottom of the periscope shroud to use as a template,they are the same. In a pinch you could easily make one if you can't find it.
 
I'm more than likely going to do just that, may as well since I'll have to get a sheet of the same gauge of steel to make a volume control mounting bracket. I don't want to if I can avoid it though since I only have tin snips for doing metal work and it's bound to look kind of ugly. As long as it's going on top nobody will ever see it anyways though.

Oh... and a question: does anybody know what value/type the BZ volume control is? It isn't one of those damn 100ohm Angstrom rheostats is it? Those darn things are like $20 each.
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I'll get it for you tonight. Been busy working late, and every time I get home and think about it, I'm worn out. I'm pretty sure it's just a regular volume pot. I'll take my meter home and measure it....
 
Yeah, please let me know. I work out by a Fry's Electronics so if I can get confirmation by morning I'll just stop by there on the way home from work since I need some QDs anyways.
 
I'll be PMing those photo's you wanted shortly....

The volume pot has the value written on it. It says:

"Model E 50 ohm 0.5A"
 
YodainMN: Thanks again. Looks like I found my missing retainer bracket guys LOL.
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And I'm not sure what you guys are talking about, the link I made in my post indicates that I can get a match (an exact match to boot) for the volume knob. It's just that it will cost me $26 which sort of sucks.

Really sucks that I could use 2 of them since my Assault volume control cuts out on the left channel.
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Many thanks to Mylstar for the hookup on parts, very nice stuff btw. Once I get the 2nd retainer bracket from YodainMN and a rheostat I'll have everything except the back door and front step.
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Now... wtf is wrong with this beautiful thing?
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