Kortek Monitors Tips,Tricks and Cap Kits

[psychopat]

Ended up buying a 2nd chassis (2914F) on eBay to use as spare. I plugged it today, first I get a rounded distorted white image which stays solid. I imagine it might be the geometry settings etc.
Then I get the usual Windows loading screen (colors are looking ok) but the image goes to black and come back non stop (clicking sound each time).

Would you suspect the HOT? Im a bit confused since I get an image which looks ok. Usually when the HOT was bad from my previous experience I get either a black screen or horizontal line in the middle with clicking sound.

UPDATE:
I disconnected the VGA video source to make sure it wasnt a resolution sync issue and such.
Now I get the No signal screen, first shows solid and theres a bit of warping in the middle. After some time it also starts clicking and going to black. (See video below)

Im thinking more and more could be related to the HOT in the process of failing etc.

I believe those models use the 2SC5584, however Arcadeparts and repair mention its safe to use the FJL6920 (I still have a bunch in stock I purchased from them). I also have full cap kits as well.
Thinking of possibly doing a full cap kit and replacing the HOT with the FJL6920.

Any other ideas on what to check before starting the surgery? Im fairly new to the chassis stuff, only recapped about half a dozen so far. thanks!

Quick update regarding this 2914F monitor. Ended up doing a full cap kit last night and installed a new HOT FJL6920. I powered it up this morning and it looked really promising, adjusted focus on the flyback and tweaked the picture using the OSD to the proper scale. I quickly noticed:

1) I am unable to fully adjust the scale of the height, even with ZOOM enabled and scaled at 100% it wont reach the top and bottom of the monitor (see photo).


2) The picture was fine (no clicking to black screen) until I ran the diagnostic mode and monitor test screens. When showing a fully solid white screen, it then started clicking and showing the black screen again. When going to red, blue, or green then everything seems ok. This was my 2nd try and now theres some distortion on the screen as well. (see video below)

3) After restarting then when the screen is brighter (windows loading screen) then the clicking and black screen happen again. (see video below)

I went through the thread and saw someone having issues with resizing the width but couldnt find anything about the height.
Also the clicking problem appears to be when more voltage is used (outputting bright screen). I was wondering if anyone familiar with those 2914F and what I should be checking next.

Thanks

 

[in99flames]

Quick update regarding this 2914F monitor. Ended up doing a full cap kit last night and installed a new HOT FJL6920. I powered it up this morning and it looked really promising, adjusted focus on the flyback and tweaked the picture using the OSD to the proper scale. I quickly noticed:

1) I am unable to fully adjust the scale of the height, even with ZOOM enabled and scaled at 100% it wont reach the top and bottom of the monitor (see photo).
View attachment 734369

2) The picture was fine (no clicking to black screen) until I ran the diagnostic mode and monitor test screens. When showing a fully solid white screen, it then started clicking and showing the black screen again. When going to red, blue, or green then everything seems ok. This was my 2nd try and now theres some distortion on the screen as well. (see video below)

3) After restarting then when the screen is brighter (windows loading screen) then the clicking and black screen happen again. (see video below)

I went through the thread and saw someone having issues with resizing the width but couldnt find anything about the height.
Also the clicking problem appears to be when more voltage is used (outputting bright screen). I was wondering if anyone familiar with those 2914F and what I should be checking next.

Thanks

Hey! A bit late to the party. In the vertical circuit, check the resistors around the vertical IC to make sure they are in spec. You did a complete cap kit? So make sure none are reverse polarity. Also check out the poly caps near the vertical and horizontal area. I have worked on 2 of these chassis that had 1 or 2 bad poly caps. Remember the tolerance rsting for the resistors in this area. I believe they are pretty strict requirements if im not mistaken.

Im also having trouble again with a 2914.....ill post when i have more info

 

[in99flames]

Ok @Ohmerone . So i am continuing the chassis from months ago. Im really at a loss why this is shorting out Scan Hots at Q712. I am using the J6820 as the Scan Hot. The chassis will produce an image which looks fine. Now, i can get the image for sometimes hours, sometimes 15 minutes. It always ends with the image starting to wave horizontally slowly...then rapidly...then Scan hot is shorted. The scan hot is shorted EVERY way. I took to a thermal camera. The Scan Hot gets to about 306 degrees fahrenheit before failing. Thats too damn hot. This board has some burning on the board too.

-Voltages are good from PS.
-EVERY electrolytic cap has been changed including filter cap.
-ive scraped off 90 percent of the white glue.
***See this picture(i removed and tested all these components. GREEN were fine. Purple were out of spec and replaced with same part)

I'm still trying to find what could be causing this issue. Trying some more testing.

 

[in99flames]

UPDATE from previous post! I have fixed the monitor chassis. No more scan hot pops. As I was afraid of it was the scan transformer stressing out the scan hot. I also believe I found some sort of specifications to help determine if the scan transformer is good or not. Youll need an LCR meter to do the test though. Ill be making a thread and post the link.

 

[gamefixer]

I dont know if this has been covered or not.

I've got a 2914DF with no OSD. IC502 has been swapped, IC 501 has been swapped, a known good neck boards has been swapped in, a known good remote board has been swapped in, I have +5 at pin 21 on 502 and it changes as it should according to the troubleshooting in the Kortek manual. ele caps in the area have been changed.

No OSD...

I did try the factory reset but that didn't work either.

 

[in99flames]

Hows your 14v line?

 

[gamefixer]

12v is good.

 

[in99flames]

At this point id start checking the traces and make sure everything is connected still. Its probably something silly.

 

[gamefixer]

already did all that. I know its got to be something stupid though. The OSD did pop up for about 3 seconds ONE TIME. After that its no show AND it doesn't actually work.

I've had D9200's do something similar but even though the OSD isn't there the base functions still work as they should. On this Kortek the only "function" that works is degause.

 

[gamefixer]

I wonder if this problem has been seen by anyone else?

I've given up on that 2914 not displaying the OSD.

I moved onto another one that worked but had factory caps so I thought I'd cap it really quick. Well, that went wrong!

When powered up it "looks" like its vertical deflection is pushed WAY off the face of the screen to the lower part of the bell housing. You can see shadows of the image as it changes. But, when powered down the image pops into view for a split second.

I'm thinking I've missed something in the vertical deflection section. What do you think?