Kortek KT-2938 vs. KT-2914F? (Can't find the manual for the 2938)

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Kortek KT-2938 vs. KT-2914F? (Can't find the manual for the 2938)

Hello,

I have a KT-2938 that I am trying to troubleshoot (does not power on...but did a few days ago and worked great!), but can only find the schematics. Does anyone have the manual for this game?

Thanks!
 
Dead

No relay click at plugin?

then you no secondary voltages.

replace the caps in the power supply

replace c123,C131...

If still no secondary voltages then replace Ic106


I recommend all the caps in the 100 block of the

power supply..be replaced for best results from the

power supply..There should be cap kit for this model....

Then look for the schematic...No parts for this model

thru casino tech..Good Luck!
 
Thanks for the great info! There is no click or any sound coming from the monitor when it is first plugged in (no hissing, buzzing, clicking, chirping, etc.)

I will start replacing those caps.

This is a KT-2182 chassis by the way.

Thanks!
 
Last edited:
I wasn't trying to confuse you, I noticed that the sticker on my monitor board says 2938, but my chassis board says 2182...so I updated the post for future users that may run into the same issue.

Thanks
 
KT2938DF also not coming on

very new to this and so far i only know it is getting 120v at the white/green/black plug into board and that the little fuse is good dont know where to test from there, see no caps that "appear" bad but i know appearences dont mean all,,,,any help appreciated,,,i did watch 1 video that showed how to discharge board but kinda clueless in what to try
 
not trying to hijack this thread- but ive got a kortek 27" via resolution that clicks on start up -- hot and flyback? or hot and capkit? any specific caps to change before I do them all? thanks!
 
not trying to hijack this thread- but ive got a kortek 27" via resolution that clicks on start up -- hot and flyback? or hot and capkit? any specific caps to change before I do them all? thanks!
...But, you did.
 
very new to this and so far i only know it is getting 120v at the white/green/black plug into board and that the little fuse is good dont know where to test from there, see no caps that "appear" bad but i know appearences dont mean all,,,,any help appreciated,,,i did watch 1 video that showed how to discharge board but kinda clueless in what to try


Ok, Thinking about the KT2938 chassis

This is a good one to send out, Or Get ready for level 3 troubleshooting it
out of the game. and extend the signal cable to work beside the game
on the bench. Level 3 means you can replace parts without damaging it or the board
and can recognize a diode or transistor etc. And have a volt meter!


If degausser does click or keep clicking

No need to test the secondary voltages 12 and 5

if the relay clicks, it must have the 12 to work at all

that is two of the secondary voltages needed first besides

The primary voltages and a clue you have some secondary voltages.

And can also mean the shutdown circuit is not allowing complete startup

meaning there's a short some where in or beyond the secondary's

like H.O.T scan circuit,

Need to address the parts I mention first

for voltage or a short on a supply line.


All secondary voltages need to be check for the over all

evaluation no you don't need a manual

to post what the voltages are? On the band side of the diodes

in the 100 Block only on the secondary side of SMPS

Most TPs will be positive voltages found yes will need the location

of test points. as a reference.


For no degausser relay Click.

See Primary voltage first!!

chassis with Micro/Eprom/degasser relay is used.

when Power up Micro energizes the degausser and then shut it off

by default, Once the reset line for digital circuit pass, then it should stop

clicking. If RELAY is annoying just remove it,, while TS the chassis

Its not the issue here!




Once AC in power supply Is converted DC then

It always goes to the filter cap, And easy to find on any chassis

and using the Filter cap ground, you always know the HOT Ground is

to test Primary Voltages. To Test DC like PWM IC and Mosfet dc at drain

Test point.

Cold ground like ground for neck board major heatsinks like The HOT

is good if common to all other grounds to crt ground.

to test dc on secondary voltages from the SMPS


Post the board so all parts can be seen

in the photo and in focus, I don't have a schematic as well

Its some where. Need to see the Power supply clearly to post test points

you should make while waiting on the schematic.

I don't guess mostly.. I look for facts leading to the defective parts

I would need more details before I would suspect the HOT Or Flyback.

Research your model here for common bad parts found and tips


Ready to try Or Just send Out for repair?

LUK
 
Would I be sending the whole crt? Or just control board and neck board?


All the chassis boards

Very common to send out chassis only, for monitor repairs

if you find a company that works on it.

Need to check around, I would assume, theres going to be a long

downtime for repairs, in the months to come.

I wouldn't just replace the caps Blindly, But power supply EL cap's

are need after many years. This is not a easy chassis to troubleshoot

from my experience with it. It does have more then just caps

go bad with the model and complex to troubleshoot

because of the board connection and Parts NLA

but all depends on what bad now.

Search your model here for any Tip's

on your chassis as well.
 
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