Kortek "K1-2-VO" (SAM 900901) Need help identifying for cap kit.

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Kortek "K1-2-VO" (SAM 900901) Need help identifying for cap kit.

Hey guys, I have a working Kortek K1-2-VO. I know that's not the right model number but I can't find any model number information on my particular board. It's blank where the normal model is located on the silk screen side of the board. Only identifying mark I can find is "SAM 900901" but I haven't had any luck looking for this as a model number. If anyone is familiar with this type, I want to do a cap replacement for it but I need to know what cap kit to look for if one is available. There appear to be 23 caps. I'd also be interested to know if the B+ on these is something I need to pay attention to and if anyone knows what the voltage is suppose to be at. I'm attaching photos of the board. Thanks.
 

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I saw that repair guide for the 1420a but the caps didn't match up with mine. Some of the values were different and the component numbers were a little different. I'll post in a few minutes a listing of my caps.
 
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Here is my list of electrolytic caps. On my board, there's a few more electrolytic caps than what's in the schematic. On the 1420A schematic these might be tantalum/ceramic caps? There are 3 of them. Also on my board C610 is a different value at 220uf. All the others look like they are spot on. So if I bought a 1420A cap kit, I'm guessing I'd need to buy these separately.

Edit: The Tekbilt schematic does look closer to what I have but still not completely accurate.

C151 - 10uf 50v OK
C204 - 1uf 50v Electrolytic missing on schematic
C207 - 1uf 50v Ok
C208 - 10uf 50v Ok
C209 - 220uf 16v Ok
C210 - 10uf 160v OK
C212 - 10uf 160v OK
C213 - 100uf 160v Ok
C303 - 1uf 50v Ok
C402 - 1uf 50v Ok
C407 - 33uf 16v OK
C409 - 10uf 50v OK
C502 - 10uf 250v OK
C503 - 33uf 100v Ok
C504 - 3.3uf 100v Ok
C505 - 470uf 25v Ok
C507 - 470uf 16v Ok
C509 - 470uf 25v Ok
C601 - 680uf 200v Filter cap - Ok
C606 - 100uf 16v Ok
C607 - 2.2 uf 250v Electrolytic missing on schematic
C609 - 100uf 160v Ok
C610 - 220uf 160v - Different value on cap than on schematic
C611 - 47uf 63v Ok
 
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Here is my list of electrolytic caps. On my board, there's a few more electrolytic caps than what's in the schematic. On the 1420A schematic these might be tantalum/ceramic caps? There are 3 of them. Also on my board C610 is a different value at 220uf. All the others look like they are spot on. So if I bought a 1420A cap kit, I'm guessing I'd need to buy these separately.

Edit: The Tekbilt schematic does look closer to what I have but still not completely accurate.

C151 - 10uf 50v OK
C204 - 1uf 50v Electrolytic missing on schematic
C207 - 1uf 50v Ok
C208 - 10uf 50v Ok
C209 - 220uf 16v Ok
C210 - 10uf 160v OK
C211 - 10uf 160v Electrolytic missing on schematic
C213 - 100uf 160v Ok
C303 - 1uf 50v Ok
C402 - 1uf 50v Ok
C407 - 33uf 16v OK
C409 - 10uf 50v OK
C502 - 10uf 250v OK
C503 - 33uf 100v Ok
C504 - 3.3uf 100v Ok
C505 - 470uf 25v Ok
C507 - 470uf 16v Ok
C509 - 470uf 25v Ok
C601 - 680uf 200v Filter cap - Ok
C606 - 100uf 16v Ok
C607 - 2.2 uf 50v Electrolytic missing on schematic
C609 - 100uf 160v Ok
C610 - 220uf 160v - Different value on cap than on schematic
C611 - 47uf 63v Ok


i think what the problem is that your chassis has been capped in years past and someone changed a couple cap values. i have seen about 6-8 of them with original caps and just worked on one last week and the blue caps are the wrong brand so i think the kit will work but i will check the couple on my chassis here and see if you are correct that maybe those had tantalums in there originally.
 
i think what the problem is that your chassis has been capped in years past and someone changed a couple cap values. i have seen about 6-8 of them with original caps and just worked on one last week and the blue caps are the wrong brand so i think the kit will work but i will check the couple on my chassis here and see if you are correct that maybe those had tantalums in there originally.

You actually might be right on the blue caps about them being changed. They are the only ones that are that brand. All the others are a different brand. Furthermore, I've not found any information about c610 being 220 on any other schematic.

Also, when looking at the Tekbilt schematic as opposed to the 1420A schematic, I do see where C204 and C607 are populated with electrolytics instead of tantalums and those two caps have the correct values like on my board. I double checked my board and the type of capacitor is printed on the board as a polarized electrolytic in all cases.

I'd love to be able to cap this thing to original spec. The problem is finding what exactly is original spec since there seem to be so many variations of this board.
 

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I did find a service sticker on this thing so something has been changed on it before I bet.
 

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It looks like P & L Games in the Los Angeles, California area worked on your chassis. They generally never do a full recap. They change obviously bad caps.
 
It looks like P & L Games in the Los Angeles, California area worked on your chassis. They generally never do a full recap. They change obviously bad caps.

I was looking at the solder joints and from what I can tell, the solder looks different on the blue higher voltage caps, R611 (which for some reason has 2 piggybacked 2k resistors even though both schematics call for 7.5k) and also the HOT transistor which looks like they had a little trouble getting out since the board is scratched pretty good around that area. R607 also looks like it was touched up or replaced as well.

I would say the big 220uf cap is probably wrong. I just don't know which schematic to follow for replacement. The Kortek one calls for a 100uf capacitor but the Tekbilt schematic calls for a 33uf capacitor. That's quite a difference.
 
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In general, this chassis might require you to check all the manuals for these monitors:

Penn-Ray KT510

Imperial (Betson)

Wico SUM 20

Kortek KT1420A

Tekbilt
 
In general, this chassis might require you to check all the manuals for these monitors:

Penn-Ray KT510

Imperial (Betson)

Wico SUM 20

Kortek KT1420A

Tekbilt

Happ also had a version similar to the Wico version but slightly different.
 

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In general, this chassis might require you to check all the manuals for these monitors:

Penn-Ray KT510

Imperial (Betson)

Wico SUM 20

Kortek KT1420A

Tekbilt

Thanks Ken. I checked all of those and the closest one was still the Tekbilt.

I think I have a full understanding of what's going on with my board now.

First off, I mistakenly thought C212 was C211. That one was actually correct and I have edited my previous posts for clarification.

Secondly, On C204 and C207, these numbers are listed as non-electrolytic caps on the 1420 schematic, however there are electrolytics nearby on that same schematic with different numbers (but same values). So I think they just changed the numbers on these two and not the capacitors themselves.

Lastly, I went looking through the manuals and found another Imperial manual that more closely matches my board here https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-monitors/Imperial.pdf. It actually more closely resembles the Tekbilt schematic. On this Imperial schematic, C607 is populated with an electrolytic like on my board. When looking at both this schematic and the Tekbilt schematic, C609/C610 are populated with 33uf and 100uf caps. These two caps lead to the same traces so they are sometimes swapped in the schematics. I think what I'm going to do is replace the 220uf that was put in my board with a 33uf since the other one is a 100uf.
 
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Ok, I got all my caps in and the picture quality overall looks a bit better. It's actually got a decent picture on it now. But I did find that now my v-hold pot is a little flaky at times. I have to tap it to straighten it out. Does anyone know if these potentiometers are still available? They are a verticle standing type with a side adjustment knob (not slot) and seem to have either a 5 or 6mm lead spacing. This particular one is a 5k.
 
Ok, I got all my caps in and the picture quality overall looks a bit better. It's actually got a decent picture on it now. But I did find that now my v-hold pot is a little flaky at times. I have to tap it to straighten it out. Does anyone know if these potentiometers are still available? They are a verticle standing type with a side adjustment knob (not slot) and seem to have either a 5 or 6mm lead spacing. This particular one is a 5k.

i should have them but there are only slot adjustments. let me know if you need help finding it.
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/product-category/components/trimmer-potentiometers-pots/
 
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