Kortec, Width coil, can it be adjusted?

telmnstr

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Looking at a Kortec chassis that has width issues.

Looking into the top of the width coil all I see is a grey/graphite/metal thing. No turn screw or anything. Is this an indication that there is no adjustment on this coil?

Are there width coils that have no adjustment?

Chassis has a N and W jumper, which sounds like Narrow and Wide. They don't get me where I need to go. Almost as if I see no difference.

I think the chassis is from a 25" and I'm running it on a 27". The yoke is of slightly different resistance. 1.1/5.2 was the original, 1.1/8.0 is ours.
 
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Okay, so the chassis is a SI 629DS-R (Sharp Image).

The width jumper comes off of the width coil, which by all means doesn't seem adjustable. Not unless the screw is on the bottom side, which would involve desoldering it to adjust. This chassis has a width pot, of course.

So the jumper has a N and a W setting.

The N jumper is a dead end, and leaves C417 (W-H682J, 6.8nF @ 1.8kvdc) in line at all times .

The W jumper added in parallel W-H272J 2.7nf @ 1.6kvdc(C416 I think)

I went to the local store and got the only thing I could, a .008mf (8nF) cap @ 650vdc. I swapped it for C417 just to test. It gets real hot and I think it's not passing enough juice to bring up all the colors. But it seems to look narrower. I can't correct the horizontal hold/width and get the picture stable.

I'm going to get my friend who actually owns the monitor to try to get a ~5, 7, 10 to 12nF @ 1.6kvdc caps to see if that can help narrow things down.

Actually, I just looked up behavior of capacitors in parallel. Apparently parallel will increase the capacitance, so perhaps the circuit will already come up with ~10nF due to the 2nd capacitor and jumper wire.

Grrr.
 
The N jumper is a dead end, and leaves C417 (W-H682J, 6.8nF @ 1.8kvdc) in line at all times .

The W jumper added in parallel W-H272J 2.7nf @ 1.6kvdc(C416 I think)

I went to the local store and got the only thing I could, a .008mf (8nF) cap @ 650vdc.

NEVER go lower on the voltage. NEVER NEVER NEVER. You're lucky it didn't instantly blow shorted and kill the deflection circuit outright, or worse, catch fire. That cap is very likely shot now, and you may have damaged other parts of the chassis in the process.
 
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