Konami Silent Scope failing to boot completely

I use original parts or same spec parts that cross reference exact as possible. RAM at 13D clearly says 66mhz on them. Not sure how much speed will cause any issues as the ones you referenced are not same from what I see.
Since you do not have spare RAM, if it were me I would swap it with say 9F to verify problem follows part before experimenting.
I used the 100mhz ram and it passed the check, not sure if it will have issues with game play yet. Now I have made it to the 11p error. I have a GQ 4x4 programmer to program the timekeeper sram but Digi key's lead time on the M48T58Y-70PC1 is expected to ship next march. Is there a cross compatible timekeeper with this one? I hear something about using an NVRAM too, what would the process of using NVRAM be?
 
Nearly impossible to get M48T58Y in DIP28. If you can find M48T58 in DIP28 these do work. Also the FM1608B will work on SS and SS2 just fine. But these are almost as hard to find as the OEM parts. I now use the M48T58Y SMD part with Snap Hat. Then I buy and adapter to mount it to DIP28. Works just fine.

No other parts will work that I know of and I am pretty much the main shop doing these now so I have done extensive investigation trying to find subs.

If you run in to too much trouble doing this, you can always send it in for repair. Email or call directly if needed. My website is my login name.
 
Nearly impossible to get M48T58Y in DIP28. If you can find M48T58 in DIP28 these do work. Also the FM1608B will work on SS and SS2 just fine. But these are almost as hard to find as the OEM parts. I now use the M48T58Y SMD part with Snap Hat. Then I buy and adapter to mount it to DIP28. Works just fine.
I may have linked this video before but it's identical to what Ken said on the M48T58Y SMD with Snap Hat. It's a very nice in depth tutorial.

 
Is there no programming involved? I thought I read that you had to write some file to the chip for it to function correctly?
 
I personally cut the battery out of the timekeepers and install a CR2032 battery holder. It's easy to do, and the timekeeper with a dead battery is garbage as-is, so there's nothing to lose. And the 2032 should last much longer than the BR1225 or BR1632 that was originally inside, and will be easily replaceable in the future.

DogP
 
I personally cut the battery out of the timekeepers and install a CR2032 battery holder. It's easy to do, and the timekeeper with a dead battery is garbage as-is, so there's nothing to lose. And the 2032 should last much longer than the BR1225 or BR1632 that was originally inside, and will be easily replaceable in the future.

DogP

What's the trick to this? 2 years back I had to replace the timekeeper in mine, and I was able to cut it down and expose where I needed to solder to, but for the life of me I could not get solder to hold on the exposed spots in the chip, and just decided to buy a new one and be done with it.
 
I personally cut the battery out of the timekeepers and install a CR2032 battery holder. It's easy to do, and the timekeeper with a dead battery is garbage as-is, so there's nothing to lose. And the 2032 should last much longer than the BR1225 or BR1632 that was originally inside, and will be easily replaceable in the future.

DogP
I've done this on PCs. so the programming in the timekeeper remains, it just needs a battery? cause that's literally what happened with this motherboard in the picture, with the dead battery inside it would get stuck on Time/Date Not Set. :)

this one took a bit of effort to grind into with the dremel, and the holder I used wasn't totally ideal, but that comp works again. do you have the pinout for the Konami timekeeper chips? I have a Police 911/2 with dead RTC that I could try this on.

348358267_982967879377070_1286015761871447428_n.jpg
 
What's the trick to this? 2 years back I had to replace the timekeeper in mine, and I was able to cut it down and expose where I needed to solder to, but for the life of me I could not get solder to hold on the exposed spots in the chip, and just decided to buy a new one and be done with it.
If the solder wouldn't "stick", you were probably soldering to the remains of the battery. At the ends of the chip are contacts for the crystal (pin 1 end) and battery (opposite end)

This image from my Multi Viper mod ( https://forums.arcade-museum.com/th...xing-konami-viper-switching-multi-mod.432261/ ) shows it clearly (though sharing 1 battery across 3 Timekeepers... of course you can do 1 battery per Timekeeper):
20180716_024523-jpg.359302


There are several different styles of Timekeeper CAPHATs... that specific style above is the easiest to remove (the top is basically attached by a couple small bridges of epoxy). On the solid blocks, I simply dremel the battery half out of the top, leaving the crystal half encapsulated in epoxy. Obviously you don't want to damage the crystal.

DogP
 
If the solder wouldn't "stick", you were probably soldering to the remains of the battery. At the ends of the chip are contacts for the crystal (pin 1 end) and battery (opposite end)

This image from my Multi Viper mod ( https://forums.arcade-museum.com/th...xing-konami-viper-switching-multi-mod.432261/ ) shows it clearly (though sharing 1 battery across 3 Timekeepers... of course you can do 1 battery per Timekeeper):
20180716_024523-jpg.359302


There are several different styles of Timekeeper CAPHATs... that specific style above is the easiest to remove (the top is basically attached by a couple small bridges of epoxy). On the solid blocks, I simply dremel the battery half out of the top, leaving the crystal half encapsulated in epoxy. Obviously you don't want to damage the crystal.

DogP
the + end of the battery looks like it goes to the side, but does the - just tap into ground?
 
There's actually two contacts on each end. On the one end are the two contacts for the xtal. On the battery end, I etched + and - into the top for reference. The - side of the battery connection is connected to the chip's GND pin, so you can see I only connected my coin cell to the - on the middle RAM, and the rest get GND through the chip pins.

BTW, here's a nice reference on Dallas NVRAM/Timekeepers: https://www.st.com/resource/en/appl...k-rtc-products-from-st-stmicroelectronics.pdf .

DogP
 
There's actually two contacts on each end. On the one end are the two contacts for the xtal. On the battery end, I etched + and - into the top for reference. The - side of the battery connection is connected to the chip's GND pin, so you can see I only connected my coin cell to the - on the middle RAM, and the rest get GND through the chip pins.

BTW, here's a nice reference on Dallas NVRAM/Timekeepers: https://www.st.com/resource/en/appl...k-rtc-products-from-st-stmicroelectronics.pdf .

DogP
I see the +/- now, it looks like the white wires are +, where's the - connections? on my PC timekeepers I tapped - of the 2032 into the chip ground as opposed to battery - pin so the holder runs kitty corner. I lock them down with cap legs so they don't flex or move this way.
 
The chip's '-' terminal is electrically connected to the chip GND pin, so I only connected the battery '-' to the '-' terminal on the middle chip (notice 2 white wires connected on that chip), which electrically connected to the rest of the chips' GND pins through the PCB. I physically supported the battery holder and crystals with a glob of hot glue.

DogP
 
So I made the adaptor for the smd timekeeper/battery, it worked fine then I left it off for 2 weeks, I power it on and 11p comes up so I reprogram again and it works fine for a couple of days. Then once again the game stays unplugged for a few weeks and the error has come back.
I tested the battery after being powered off for a week and it has 3.12 vdc which is in the range I believe.
Any ideas as to why its losing its data after being powered off for a while?
 
Also, the chip 13D I linked from ebay worked fine even with the mhz being different and I think there was some access time differences. No graphical glitches.
 
You should be using the M48T58Y SMD on the adapter pcb that can go into DIP socket on pcb. This part uses SnapHat battery/osc. If you are not doing this, highly likely its not going to work. I have been using them for a few months now with no issues.
 
You should be using the M48T58Y SMD on the adapter pcb that can go into DIP socket on pcb. This part uses SnapHat battery/osc. If you are not doing this, highly likely its not going to work. I have been using them for a few months now with no issues.
IMG_4383.jpegIMG_4384.jpeg
Is this correct? I have the battery off for the picture.
 
You mean you have the SnapHat off?? Or are you just connecting a battery to one end?? If it loses data with SnapHat, SnapHat is bad.
 
IMG_4385.jpeg
No, it was just for the picture, I've had the Snaphat on the whole time and it loses data after being powered off for longer than a week. 2 days and it's fine.

Now that I've been thinking about it, I did power it on briefly with it backwards but it worked fine after reinstalling, no smoke or anything. I played it a few days in a row with no errors.

Should I replace the battery or the actual chip… Or both?
 
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