Knockoff multi vs. Arcadeshop multi

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I have been investigating multi boards and I notice that some retailers claim their product is superior to the "knock off" pcb's. Is there really a difference in fail rate or quality between an Arcadeshop pcb and one I may buy off the boards here?
 
Since the memory-reset issue of the 39-in-1's, I haven't had a single issue with the 48/60-in-1's in regards to quality or longevity. Only the oft-commented aspect of failing to save initials, some minor sound discrepancies versus original, etc.
 
Given the sudden increase in cut-rate pricing on the Arcade Shop (Clay's) board from multiple sellers, I have been wondering if they've finally been copied, just like the 48/60's were. Is that what you're asking -- are their boot's of the AS, or are you just comparing the other multi's against the AS?
 
Since the memory-reset issue of the 39-in-1's, I haven't had a single issue with the 48/60-in-1's in regards to quality or longevity. Only the oft-commented aspect of failing to save initials, some minor sound discrepancies versus original, etc.

I hate the fact that only 1943 has continue. Would be nice to have that on gunsmoke and arkanoid without having to disable all the other games.
 
What do you mean "knockoffs"? The 60/1's? Or is there something more to it?

Jammaboards.com claims to have the original 60-1 and mentions the cheaper knockoffs having a high failure rate due to weak components. Arcadeshop has their 19-1 and then you can also buy a cheap knockoff version.

My questions is there really a difference besides price?
 
Jammaboards.com claims to have the original 60-1 and mentions the cheaper knockoffs having a high failure rate due to weak components. Arcadeshop has their 19-1 and then you can also buy a cheap knockoff version.

My questions is there really a difference besides price?

Not really. The are currently two versions of the 60-in-1, an A and a B version. The processors look different, and some of the components may have different manufacturers, but they are basically the exact same. Operation-wise, you can't tell except for the menu title.

I've had problems in reliability between the A or B of the 48-in-1's over the years.

I've found most people talk about "reliability issues" when they want you to spend more for their stuff than other stuff....
 
If I'm not mistaken, the knockoffs and reliability issues are pretty much history at this point. I have a 48-in-1 and havent had any problems other than lousy sound in a few games. I made a 2-parter in my YouTube Channel (linked below) all about the Multicade PCB's. Dont know if it will answer any of your questions but hey, its there.
 
ive run several 39 in ones, 48 in ones, and 60 in ones... both the eventual buyers and myself have had no complaints about them
mine came from wu and or chris25810... bot guys are great guys to deal with..

i will warn you on some games like bombjack the sound isnt quite perfect but for the most part nobody but you will notice(if you even do)

Dude... this post reminds me its about that time to build another multi..

man i need a jrok multiwilliams board bad lol..


if you want a cheap multi, get the cheap board man. I just dont see the difference bieng with the extra cost...

"this is cadillacman and i approved this message." :D
 
there is no difference now with the 60 in 1's both now have the 2 trackball connectors starting this week:)
 
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