Killer Instinct stopped working

CoolCraig3

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Turned on the KI cab today and have no DONG noise or video (although the monitor does turn on). I replaced the hard drive with the CF kit a few months ago and have barely used it.


Anyone care to chime in on this one?
 
I would suspect your power supply is at fault. do you have another one to test on there? if it's one of the original grey case Peter Chou screw terminal ones, that's MOST LIKELY the problem. it's just a failure of one of the resistors inside (as per what KenLayton has suggested) and it throws the PSU into overload protection.

if you have another PSU, try that one. no amount of adjusting the +5 or whatever will correct this if it is in fact the case -- I would know, I did the same thing in my KI cab. :)

try powering the cab off and turn it back on. do this every 30 seconds or so, MAYBE you'll get lucky and it'll turn over for you and work. it only seems to do it when you first power on. almost as if it has a correct load on it, the unit will work fine.

also won't hurt to check your +5 though. for KI I'd probably suggest 5.10-5.15V
 
it'll bong, even if the board's broken. (the infamous white line pattern)

sounds like no juice.
 
Same thing happens with my KI about once every 30 times I turn it on. It is the power supply and you can tell because the red power light will be off even though everything else in the cabinet is on. I just power it off, wait about 15 seconds and then power it back on again. Hasn't bothered me enough to swap out the power supply (a grey Peter Chou like mecha said).
 
Men.........


I installed a new power supply and the same thing was happening. Turned on again and POOF! JP12 C31 blew and started smoking.

Do my fellow gamers think it was the board all along or something else?

I checked the AC from the Isolation Trans and it measured 149V and the 5V DC was at 6.8V. AC from the wall is 140V. Weird.........

Also, who is the man to contact to fix the board?



Thanks in advance,

Craig
 
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If you have 140V from the wall you may have SERIOUS problems in your house. Measure the outlets in your other rooms. If they are 140V you could be cooking eveything plugged-in in your house.

I still think voltage has been the problem the whole time. Though, now you obviously have a new problem. Sort out the voltage thing first. Do you have pics of the damaged board area? Was the 6.8V with a load or without?

What kind of PS did you use? Are you sure you didn't reverse the 5v and 12v wires?
 
149V and 140V? 6.8V from the switcher? Yikes. You should have checked before plugging in the KI board. Find out if the high voltage exists only on that outlet or in your whole house. It sounds like the switcher was shutting down properly in this case.
 
All the wires are were they should be. After I disconnected the entire board, the PS LED went on and that is when i measured the 6.8 and dropped it to 5V were it should have been. The same thing (PS LED off) when the board was working 50% of the time. I have only owned the cabinet for 2 months and this started happening last week. I thought a new PS would help things, but it obviously wasn't the issue.


Now the question is who should I send it to? Who is the goto guy on these forums?

Any help is appreciated...
 
What about the wall outlet voltage? Is it still around 140V? You need to take care of that first.
 
if you shot 6.8V through the board components, consider it finished. the chips on it are nowhere to be found except on other dead game boards, and in most cases the knuckleheads ripped the CPUs off them trying to remove the heatsink for whatever reason.

channelmanic is the user that comes to mind though, since he can do surface mount work, but I don't hold out much hope for your board.

do you have any 230V AC lines in the place you're at? what's the likelihood there's a wire crossed with it to get you that 140V?
 
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