Killer Instinct restore + some questions

[mecha]

by hacked he's talking about the white-ish tape on the 2 wire connector by the flyback (it looks like someone soldered a new connector on at that point to match the dedicated wiring).

The cab definitely looks dedicated and your serial number stickers on the board match the frame for the monitor.

Many OP's would just pull the monitor chassis and replace it with whatever was on hand, that's how i had my white pot k7000 flyback replaced lol, tho i didn't know that the k7000 and polo were that easily swappable.

Does the serial sticker on the inside of one of the side walls say killer instinct and have a serial number that matches the board? if so it's 100% dedicated and fairly original.

Sounds and looks like you need a mech for the slot closest to the lock on the coin door, shouldn't be hard or expensive to find, you just have to figure out if the other one is quarters or tokens.


edit: btw you should be able to adjust the contrast/brightness via the monitors remote board, that should brighten it up (use the test menu to adjust the contrast tho as it will make it easier to see bleeding).

the yoke and rings are not that of the Polo variety. so it wasn't like it was a Polo that got replaced with a K7000 chassis lol.

KI came with an isolation transformer for a reason... it came with either a Polo or a K7000. that looks like a K7000. and it looks like it needs a bath, someday.

tube looks pretty dim, at least that's how it looks, the retrace lines are a bad sign in that case. hopefully it's just a bad picture, and you need to give the glass a good cleaning. there's a bracket underneath the control panel that you unscrew and slide out, and you lift the glass out of the wooden lip, bezel too. wash them on both sides, and wash the tube too.

 

[Broodwich]

yep, it's missing the cool lil sticker tho. I had upgraded my KI to a standard desktop IDE back in the day before CF kits were readily available, and just got a new kit from revisionx.com (thekillerinstinctproject.com).

Thread about it here:

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=192355

Always good to preserve the past, my original seagate drive is still good

as for being green at this collecting thing, i'm right there with you. Best way i've found to learn is being here on the forums and not being afraid to get your hands dirty (or soldering iron hot). i've been here 4 months and i've learned oodles, peeps are very helpful just be patient and open to criticism lol

Monitors still scare me still as they're in short supply and can be dangerous in the wrong hands.

 

[Broodwich]

the yoke and rings are not that of the Polo variety. so it wasn't like it was a Polo that got replaced with a K7000 chassis lol.

you liked that one didn't ya mecha

i figured it was a far fetch but i've seen ops do crazy stuff IMO (not that what they did was wrong just crazier than i am right now).

 

[knipple]

What do you mean by yokes and rings, are those the devices behind the warning label? I think youre referring to the monitor but im not sure..is there a way to identify what model it is, i know you said it might be a k7000?

Just and update, i changed the flycap settings and the lines are mostly gone, I also changed the setting on the monitor "board" underneath the controls, seems to look a lot better, thanks!

Ive been playing the last 2 days and sometimes the controls will stop working, i'll have to lift up the panel and check each connector, and then it seems to work, So i think I should def change the controls, I can see one of them looks to have mold! So this weekend might be some spring cleaning.

Thanks!

 

[treborlicec]

What do you mean by yokes and rings, are those the devices behind the warning label? I think youre referring to the monitor but im not sure..is there a way to identify what model it is, i know you said it might be a k7000?

Just and update, i changed the flycap settings and the lines are mostly gone, I also changed the setting on the monitor "board" underneath the controls, seems to look a lot better, thanks!

Ive been playing the last 2 days and sometimes the controls will stop working, i'll have to lift up the panel and check each connector, and then it seems to work, So i think I should def change the controls, I can see one of them looks to have mold! So this weekend might be some spring cleaning.

Thanks!

That sounds like a flaky ground in the ground loop. That is the black wire that daisy chains all the way around the controls.

 

[knipple]

Hey guys, one more question....

I am trying to change the joysticks, no problem with the wiring or anything like that. The problem is the new stick is "thicker" by the metal area than the current ring that is between the CPO and the control wooden board. The older controls look much thinner...

I been trying, but havent found a good way to remove the ring. It almost looks like I would have to remove the whole overlay, which looks like removing the glue and everything. Is there anyway around this? I was going to try and just make the hole slightly bigger by drilling, but the ring would constantly move so I wouldnt get a clean drill. Heres some pics so you can understand what I am talking about...

Im sure someone has encountered this, interested in how anyone solved it, i dont mind removing the whole overlay if I have too.. Thanks!

 

[treborlicec]

Hey guys, one more question....

I am trying to change the joysticks, no problem with the wiring or anything like that. The problem is the new stick is "thicker" by the metal area than the current ring that is between the CPO and the control wooden board. The older controls look much thinner...

I been trying, but havent found a good way to remove the ring. It almost looks like I would have to remove the whole overlay, which looks like removing the glue and everything. Is there anyway around this? I was going to try and just make the hole slightly bigger by drilling, but the ring would constantly move so I wouldnt get a clean drill. Heres some pics so you can understand what I am talking about...

Im sure someone has encountered this, interested in how anyone solved it, i dont mind removing the whole overlay if I have too.. Thanks!

The ring is between the metal panel and the wood panel in a recess. You have to separate the two to remove it and put the new ring in.

 

[knipple]

Thanks, is that part attached by glue? I can feel it slightly pulling apart but I dont want to force it, looks like ill have to remove all buttons as well, correct? Thanks

 

[Broodwich]

The ring is between the metal panel and the wood panel in a recess. You have to separate the two to remove it and put the new ring in.

most of the midway cp's i have weren't glued down just the buttons and the 10 screws that hold the plexi down, the sticks (kinda), and the 20 or so small nuts on the under side (hinge, overlay, and cp security clamps (on the sides)).

As Treborlicec said the ring is actually in a routed out area (and should move freely). The metal overlay is probably stuck on buy soda more than anything else lol, tho there is a chance someone glued the metal overlay down but it's doubtful.

 

[knipple]

Thanks, it is quite dirty, but it seemed to be on their realllly well. My guess is it might be a replacement and someone had glued it, and I imagine soda has been spilt plenty on there.

Looks like it will take some time as I'll have to remove all the buttons(which are quite stuck too btw) Thanks for your help brood and everyone!

 

[Broodwich]

large metal scraper will help a lot if it's glued on, but most likely it's just the soda.

 

[Mitsurugi-w]

Hey Joshua,

Glad you were able to get yourself a KI machine. I was able to trade the extra one I had for a KI2.

Anyway, If you ever need help with any machines you may get I can help. I can teach you cap kits and monitor repair down the road. I'm pretty good at working on those K7000 monitors now so you'd be in good hands. If the tube gets weak I have a rejuvinator also. Since most of my cabs are Midway I'm pretty familiar with them in general. In fact I completely broke down and fixed up a MK2 that I donated to charity. It had a K7000 monitor in it and I had to put some aluminum brackets on the bottom corners to conceal some damage and prevent further problems with it.

Let me know if you want any help in the future or want to come by and see the collection. Be sure to stop by one of my restaurants as well. Good to have some more collectors in the area now.

 

[CMAC]

Ah yes, definately my favorite cabinet. For sure you need to get all of that dust out of the insides of your cab. You definately need a fan blowing across the heatsink on a KI board and yours looks to be clogged with dust. For sure it's a dedicated cabinet which has had several parts replaced during it's life (like the plastic clip on the ferrite surrounding the hard drive cable). If you're picky like me take the time to tear it all down and clean everything - at least pull the glass off the front and clean it and the tube as others suggested. When you take the control panel apart either wash all the buttons or just replace them. Unless you are going to program other EPROMS for other games I wouldn't buy a programmer and eraser unless you can get them for cheap. You can purchase a KI boot EPROM for about the same cost a few EPROMS would cost anyway (or you may get one donated to you).

 

[Mitsurugi-w]

Oh yeah. I forgot to mention that I have a programmer and keep a stock of common eproms used in Midway and Capcom games.

 

[knipple]

thank you CMAC and Mits!

last weekend I took the CP completely off. Replaced the joysticks with new blue ones, cleaned the buttons, cleaned the overlay and plexiglass cover, put it back together and looks great!

I have made a CF drive, just waiting on the boot rom and I am going to replace that and clean everything off

Mits, I sent you a PM as well.

 

[Mitsurugi-w]

Pics of the CP?

 

[Broodwich]

thank you CMAC and Mits!

last weekend I took the CP completely off. Replaced the joysticks with new blue ones, cleaned the buttons, cleaned the overlay and plexiglass cover, put it back together and looks great!

was it soda?

 

[knipple]

Yes there was quite a bit of soda and gunk, took my awhile to scrub it off, also fixed the wiring for the light on the top panel, now the lights working I'll take some pics, im so happy I was able to fix all the controls, etc being a noob. Thanks for the help!

New sticks work great! Next ive ordered some t molding samples to replace it, most of it is knicked or half off.

 

[knipple]

new joysticks + lighted marquee

Heres the updates pics of the new joys and cleaning up, plus the marqee working!

 

[Broodwich]

looks great, keep us updated

Enjoy it!