Ken's Payphone Thread

I remember hacking the payphones for free local calls outside my high school probably around the late 80's/early 90's. We would use only an opened paperclip and insert one end into the center hole of the handset mouthpiece while touching the other end into the coin box keyhole.
Not sure why, but it seemed to work nearly every single time.....at least on 2 of the 3 phones mounted out there. I knew it worked because we would prank call the office secretary on a daily basis. (the office was only about 15 feet away from the phones) I think shortly after word spread and the quarters dried up the phones were replaced with newer models. I honestly can't remember actively trying it on any other payphones.

I know Wargames showed something similar to hack payphones. Unscrewing the mouthpiece cover and making a connection. I know most payphones had sealed handsets tho. So is there a technical reason why this hack could have possibly worked or was it just a fluke with those particular payphones?
 
That would have been on Western Electric "dumb" phones owned by the local Bell Telephone company. The microphone was wired through the keypad. Shorting the microphone to ground was like making the pulse contacts of a rotary dial thus making calls.

Smart (privately owned) payphones have the microphone wired through the smart circuit board not the keypad. The smart board can detect this type of fraud. Depending on how the phone owner configures the smart board security options, the phone can immediately call it's owner or dial 911 and report the fraud attempt or it can simply log the time, date, & duration of the fraud attempts. Then when the phone owner's computer calls the payphone for it's daily (or weekly) polling, the phone will report the fraud attempts. At no time will a smart phone ever allow dialing of calls through shorting out the microphone. Smart boards also have burglar alarm functions built-in since they are already hard wired to a phone line. Many smart payphone models have alarm switches on the locks so they can tell if someone has broken in. If someone crowbarred open a payphone coin vault door, the alarm switch will trip and the phone immediately dials the local 911 center and announces in a recorded voice "break-in, coin vault, payphone number (area code, then phone number)". Many 911 call dispatch centers have lists of payphones showing the payphone number, it's location, and who owns the payphone. The police are immediately dispatched to that phone

The Bell Telephone company's wised up to this type of fraud, too, and revised their dumb circuit boards and keypads to stop this fraud.
 
So lets say, for example, that I could get an AT&T dumb phone with keys book and a mounting plate for $25. I would then need to buy the $50 board linked above and the. Have Someone help me build a controller box for it to accept coins.

Is that a good price? Less than $100 total?
 
If you got a complete "dumb" payphone, you'd only need the payphone controller to make it work with coins in a home use.
 
Ken, by any chance do you know how to remove a payphone enclosure from a pedestal once the phone is removed? I assume it's bolted somewhere behind where the phone is.
 
The "enclosure" has a couple of 1/8" Allen tamperproof security screws holding it to the pedestal. Usually the screws are accessible after the payphone has been removed from the enclosure. I've seen a few cheapo enclosures where the bolts are located behind the marquee light fixture (you take out the lighted "phone" sign first).

The enclosure general hangs on the pedestal.
 
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Okay, i picked up the payphone.. it came with a manual that was left in a plastic bag in the rain.. i can still flip through most of it. it is an "AT&T Private Payphone Plus".. the pics of the inside look different than the others that were listed and/or linked.. i didnt realize how heavy they were.. i definitely need a pedestal, as i dont know if it want to throw that weight on my wall.

all in all not bad.. had to get up early and travel a bit but with the keys, manual, phone and mounting plate, it only cost me $25.
 
sorry, it was only one. i brought the manual inside to try to figure out more about it. i am wondering if this is just plug and play.. has dipswitches and all.. it was my first CL experience done 99% via text. i called and left a message, he texted me pics and i texted him when i arrived. it was a 3hr round trip and i had to be back home at 9:30 am for my sons soccer game.
 
We used operate about a dozen of the AT&T Private Payphones (NOT the Plus model). The standard ones were junk, but I'm not sure about the PLUS model. I heard that AT&T made significant design changes from the standard private payphone when they came out with the PLUS model. I know the standard AT&T Private operated from a low voltage AC power transformer. Don't know if the PLUS uses a transformer or not.

We had so many problems with the standard model that my boss had me gut them out and convert them into ELCOTEL series 3 payphones. The Elcotel's ran very well.

Pity though, I used to have complete manuals and schematics to the AT&T Private Payphone and the Wiltelco 5000 payphones. I threw those manuals away about 15 years ago. Boy I wish I would have saved them now.
 
thanks for the info Ken. Hopefully, the Plus will be a good model at home.

I did find out this morning that there is a transformer (part 405-172-099) that I do not have. i am going to get back to the seller to see if he has it. but do you know where i may be able to find more info on it? since i cannot find anything online about these, i just spent a good while blowdrying the we user/installation manual.. i would love to travel back in time and stop you from throwing out your manuals. :)
 
It's been ages since I worked on the AT&T Private, but I think the transformer was 24 volts AC center tapped. I seem to remember three wires from the transformer to the payphone's power supply board.
 
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in looking through the dry manual, they reference a 24V transformer. I am still trying to locate the actual plug-in transformer, but if i cannot find it, i guess i will put one in a junction box.
 
In looking through the dry manual, they reference a 24V wall transformer. I am still trying to locate the actual plug-in transformer, but if I cannot find it, I guess I will put one in a junction box.

I did some poking around on Google. The wall wart transformer AT&T part number 405172099 (also listed as 405-172-099) is 24 volt AC center tapped capable of 830 ma (20VA) output.
 
I did some poking around on Google. The wall wart transformer AT&T part number 405172099 (also listed as 405-172-099) is 24 volt AC center tapped capable of 830 ma (20VA) output.

i guess the key item to note is "center tapped" with regard to finding a compatible transformer. I have found a few wall transformers with 24vac adn 830ma, but they only have two wire connectors - not 3 like the AT&T one.

i did find a possible source, but the guy needs to check with his tech to see how many they have left and to see if they can sell me one (they are holding them back for 'regular' customers) :rolleyes: Anyway, his price is like $55-60 for it. I am not sure if i want to pay that much for a phone I am not 100% sure works.
 
If you have to, just buy a regular 24 volt AC center tapped power transformer instead of the wall wart style. Naturally you'd have to mount it in a ventilated metal box.
 
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