Keeping Power Supplies Original (or not)

D_Harris

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I've read about the technical reasons for keeping the original power supplies in games like Robotron and Tron, even when it entails rebuilding, but it seems as though the advice swings in the opposite direction with some games(ie: Konami/Stern).

Can someone come up with a general list of recommended keepers, along with a companion list of games where it is recommended to use a modern switcher as opposed to repairing the original power supply?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
I'd like to add on: voltage regulators and power supplies that are built on them are still available for reasonable prices. Why isn't there more of a movement for NEW homebrew or retail VR-based power supplies in machines known to have problems with switchers (like Tron)? Is it just easier to rebuild the original PS with new caps and chips?
 
I've never rebuilt a linear power supply before, I've mostly seen instances where switchers made the games unreliable, and it was just more plausible to rebuild the original board instead. I guess the biggest knock on the power supply boards is that when they fail, they can shoot improper voltages to places they don't belong. but I'm thinking that's only if they have original components on them... if you rebuild them right, it shouldn't be a problem for a looooooong time.

some games like Pac-Man or Galaga operate on very strange voltages, I'm thinking if you switched them to switchers that there's a lot of work involved with building adapters and shit.

my Defender has a switcher with an adapter plug, and I had to jack the +5 on the unit itself just to get the game to boot. I bought a PS board on ebay on the cheap that's probably going to need to be rebuilt, but I'm not ready for that project just yet.

I like keeping things original, personally. gobs of rebuild kits for these old games exist, particularly at Bob's, so why not unless they're cooked beyond repair?
 
Taito games junk the stock and put in the switcher from arcadeshop.....

Zoo Keeper
Qix
Kram
Electric Yo Yo
Jungle King
Elevator Action

etc,etc,etc..........

-Barry
 
I've read about the technical reasons for keeping the original power supplies in games like Robotron and Tron, even when it entails rebuilding, but it seems as though the advice swings in the opposite direction with some games(ie: Konami/Stern).

Can someone come up with a general list of recommended keepers, along with a companion list of games where it is recommended to use a modern switcher as opposed to repairing the original power supply?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

What I've learned so far:

Early '80s Williams games -- rebuild the original linear power supplies (except Moon Patrol, which can run on a switcher just fine if you want)
Early '80s Taito games -- replace with new switchers with Taito adapters (Arcade Shop carries them)
Early '80s Atari games -- rebuild the A/R boards and edge connectors
Early '80s Gottlieb games -- replace with new switchers with Gottlieb adapters (Arcade Shop carries them)
Early '80s Bally/Midway MCR games -- rebuild original power supplies; switchers work but often cause a loud hum that can't be adjusted out
Early '80s Nintendo games -- run original power supplies to failure, then rebuild them
Early '80s Konami and Stern -- I have no experience with original power supplies but switchers seem to work great

I have Golden Era tunnel vision when it comes to this hobby, so I can't help with early- to mid-'70s or late-'80s and newer.
 
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I've seen some mentions of the Stern (Berzerk) p/s, but very little. I saw some references to there being mods or upgrades, but searching RGVAC archives, I find nothing.

My plan is to rebuild my original Berzerk p/s with new caps and new molex headers, then re-pin the connectors on the harness side. Can anyone recommend any upgrades? It's a simple looking p/s and I like how everything is labeled on the PCB.
 
I might be in the minority here, but in my experience, the only time I have random reset, failure to boot, or other sporadic behavior from my games is when using switching PS's.
Once I switch out the switchers to rebuilt original PS's, with rare exception, everything works as they should.
Keep them original.
 
What I've learned so far:

Early '80s Williams games -- rebuild the original linear power supplies (except Moon Patrol, which can run on a switcher just fine if you want)
Early '80s Taito games -- replace with new switchers with Taito adapters (Arcade Shop carries them)
Early '80s Atari games -- rebuild the A/R boards and edge connectors
Early '80s Gottlieb games -- replace with new switchers with Gottlieb adapters (Arcade Shop carries them)
Early '80s Bally/Midway MCR games -- rebuild original power supplies; switchers work but often cause a loud hum that can't be adjusted out
Early '80s Nintendo games -- run original power supplies to failure, then rebuild them
Early '80s Konami and Stern -- I have no experience with original power supplies but switchers seem to work great

I have Golden Era tunnel vision when it comes to this hobby, so I can't help with early- to mid-'70s or late-'80s and newer.

Thanks.

What you wrote mirrors what I've been reading. I have no Gottlieb games but I do have one Taito which is Elevator Action, so I'll have to do some research on that.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
My Galaga came from the op with a switcher. The original is still in the cabinet, but the switcher works perfectly and no weird hum.
 
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