I just got one of those TEC monitors working for my Night Driver. When I got the game there was Neck glow but no image or High voltage. Then I noticed it had a 15A fuse instead of a 2A and a 20A fuse in place of the 1/2A which is never a good sign. One capacitor was blown exactly like that and I've read that specific capacitor does fail like that. Recapped the whole chassis, found a small transistor that was bent and had a couple leads touching, a burned up resistor, and replaced a couple diodes. Also washed the chassis. Thankfully it works. Still need a tweak the image but as old as these are it looks good.
I would definitely try to salvage that monitor. Go through and recap the whole chassis including the Polly caps. As the others mentioned above you can try to repair that HV lead. (Maybe replace that HV diode in case it went bad and caused that to go out). There is definitely hope. This isn't an uncommon repair and many of the BW vector monitor HV units hav had repairs like this. Often soldering in the HV diode then sealing it. The earlier -801 ones more so. Worst case keep an eye out for a spare TEC chassis.
If you have access to a CRT tester definitely check the tube. Mine did need a clean and light rejuvenation.
A good thread with reference on the TEC-623 with updated parts list is here:
Good luck.
I would definitely try to salvage that monitor. Go through and recap the whole chassis including the Polly caps. As the others mentioned above you can try to repair that HV lead. (Maybe replace that HV diode in case it went bad and caused that to go out). There is definitely hope. This isn't an uncommon repair and many of the BW vector monitor HV units hav had repairs like this. Often soldering in the HV diode then sealing it. The earlier -801 ones more so. Worst case keep an eye out for a spare TEC chassis.
If you have access to a CRT tester definitely check the tube. Mine did need a clean and light rejuvenation.
A good thread with reference on the TEC-623 with updated parts list is here:
TEC TM-623 B&W monitor repair and caps
R408 is a '2B68KJ'. My guess is its a 4.7K, 2 Watt. It's certainly not 1/2 watt. Have you tested the value with it pulled from the chassis? Your readings will be high if its still connected. EDIT: I was corrected below, it's 6.8K, not 4.7 R417 is labeled '2BJ 1.8k o R' which should be a...
forums.arcade-museum.com
Good luck.




