KE 1315 Help (Monitor Adjustments?)

LordDavon

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I have a KE1315 board and have tried it in 4 different horizontal cabinets. 3 of the 4 cabinets are complete systems working perfectly where I pulled the JAMMA board and plugged in the KE1315 board. I am using the cabinets power supply for the monitor still and am only plugging in the KE1315 via JAMMA. When I fire up the 1315 board, the top of the screen is garbled and it looks like they are horizontally offset. I adjust the monitors and can get the menu close to decent but once I fire up a game, there is garbled graphics at the top of the screen.

These are all low-res monitors and all show the same issue. If someone is familiar with the KE1315 boards and can give some advice, it would be greatly appreciated and is in much need.

Thank you.

David
 
What models of low res monitors? There are some that act a little funny with some game boards...

G07 comes to mind. There's a mod for them and there are some resistors to replace that were incorrect from the factory.
 
What models of low res monitors? There are some that act a little funny with some game boards...

G07 comes to mind. There's a mod for them and there are some resistors to replace that were incorrect from the factory.

2 are Wells-Gardner monitors, One is a Neotech and one has no label. They are all 25" so none are the G07 (since I believe that is a 19"). One Wells-Gardner and and One Neotech have had recent Cap Kits done (and by someone who replaces the caps properly and doesn't use kits).

David
 
Was'nt there a post long time ago about the sync wires(on the monitor board rbg g + -) producing that top portion of the screen garbled effect ? I had a GT awhile back that had the same symtoms with 3 diff chassis's . Dont know if this is the case with the KE board but may be worth a try .
 
(and by someone who replaces the caps properly and doesn't use kits).

Not if they didn't replace all the common failure caps... ;) This could lead to image issues such as ones you are seeing.
 
agreed
i used to just use my cap tester and replace bad caps but after having to pull a chassis for the third time to replace yet another cap that failed later on
i have started just replacing every cap im shure its probaly overkill in most cases (where a cap kit from bob or elswhere would fix the problem just fine)but id rather be able to say hey i wont have to pull this sucker again for anything (unless i blow a fly lol)
 
Not if they didn't replace all the common failure caps... ;) This could lead to image issues such as ones you are seeing.

I know he was telling me that he uses different caps on the ones that commonly fail. In Florida, he is known as Atari Jim and is the end-all of monitor repair. I do not doubt his work at all. I am not saying that you guys are wrong but, 4 monitors having the same issue is leading me to believe that there is something else going on.

Anyway, if the caps failed, then shouldn't I have the same issue when I put the original JAMMA board back in. 1 is a Tekken Tag Tournament and once I remove the 1315 and put Tekken Tag back in, the monitor is beautiful again. Another is a Neo-Geo with a MVS2JAMMA converter and it works great as a Neo-Geo once the 1315 is removed. I do have to adjust the monitor back but they do work great.



David
 
Contact JROK and see if you can get a sync cleaner from him. It could be that the monitor just doesn't like the sync levels being sent from the game.
 
I have been having the exact same issue with my 1315 in 1 board. I have tried three different 25" K7000 standard resolution chassis and all have the same issue with some distortion at the top with the very top curving to the left. All three chassis were newly capped with kits from Bob Roberts. I attempted to adjust the 50/60 pot on the chassis, which improves the curve but does not resolve the issue.
 
I have been having the exact same issue with my 1315 in 1 board. I have tried three different 25" K7000 standard resolution chassis and all have the same issue with some distortion at the top with the very top curving to the left. All three chassis were newly capped with kits from Bob Roberts. I attempted to adjust the 50/60 pot on the chassis, which improves the curve but does not resolve the issue.

Oh thank goodness. I thought that I was the only person having this issue. Maybe now we can find a solution together.
 
Try fiddling with the contrast a bit (turning it down) and see what happens while fiddling with the 50/60Hz, while fiddling with the Horizontal video shift, etc.

I've seen regular JAMMA boards cause this on a couple K7000's. (World Rally comes to mind)
So it's not just the 1315 or whatever.
 
Try fiddling with the contrast a bit (turning it down) and see what happens while fiddling with the 50/60Hz, while fiddling with the Horizontal video shift, etc.

I've seen regular JAMMA boards cause this on a couple K7000's. (World Rally comes to mind)
So it's not just the 1315 or whatever.

What is the "50/60Hz"?
 
Little pot near rear edge of the pcb, flyback side.
(a seldom few versions do not have it though)
 

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Thank you. I will try that as soon as I can. I think it is currently in a cabinet with a WG7000 series so, let's hope. ;-)
 
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