K7000 Yoke Problem?

zenomorp

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Ok. Step 1...


Known good chassis on known good tube...


SAM_2175.jpg



Step 2...


Remove chassis and install on donor tube...


SAM_2173.jpg



SAM_2171.jpg



SAM_2169.jpg



Step 3...


Witness problem and try to adjust Vertical Size...





Step 4...


Measure yoke...


Vertical...


SAM_2179.jpg



Horizontal...


SAM_2181.jpg



Step 5...


Any ideas? I got the tube from "bulldawg" here on the forums and he said it was working and compatible with a K7000. Just want to make sure I am not doing something obviously wrong here. I need a burn free tube and this one is great, but I have this issue. The reason I think it's a yoke issue is due to the fact that the chassis works perfectly on another tube/yoke.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
looks like it should work the readings for the yoke you are getting on your meter are in acceptable ranges for a K7000.

retest the chassis again on the known good tube and see.

also make sure all the connectors from the chassis to the neck board are making a good connection and vice versa.

check the yoke wires and make sure they are not half broken where they connect to the yoke windings on the doner tube.

Peace
Buffett
 
You're not trying to swap the chassis between different size tubes, by chance?

If the vertical yoke measurements are different by as little as 3 ohms, in can cause slight size differences like this...
 
You're not trying to swap the chassis between different size tubes, by chance?

If the vertical yoke measurements are different by as little as 3 ohms, in can cause slight size differences like this...

No. Both Philips 25"
 
how does the donor tubes yoke readings compare to the known good tube.....???
 
how does the donor tubes yoke readings compare to the known good tube.....???

The reading on the coils are within .1 - .2 of each other.

Anyone have an extra K7000 yoke they wanna sell? I contacted bulldawg and he reminded me that when he sold me the tube, he informed me that there was a yoke problem. Turns out I had forgotten that info, so looks like I need another yoke. SOrry to have wasted all your time.
 
Ok, so in the process of swapping these chassis' around from tube to tube, I have blown up the voltage regualtor on one of them. It has a 4-pin molex instead of a 3-pin. The #4 pin hole is empty but you still have the option of plugging the cab's connector into the monitor's connector correctly. Here are some pics to clear it all up...


This is how it is supposed to be hooked up...


SAM_2237.jpg



And here is what I did...


SAM_2239.jpg



Basically, I sent 115vac up the ground. The chassis is completely dead. The fuse is NOT blown, so I assume it's the voltage regulator. Easy enough to change if I can just fins one. I have a thread in the wanted section is anyone can part with some. Thanks for following along with my stupidity.

Also, if anyone has any other suggestions besides a VR, let me know!
 
i have them what is the part# on the VR it will be either a 30130 or 3130.

you may have blown more up than the regulator. possibly some power rectifying diodes and the tall resister R103 and your filter cap.

or

if you want it repaired send it to me.

the first pic is what you want.

the second pic is wrong.

Peace
Buffett
 
i have them what is the part# on the VR it will be either a 30130 or 3130.

you may have blown more up than the regulator. possibly some power rectifying diodes and the tall resister R103 and your filter cap.

or

if you want it repaired send it to me.

the first pic is what you want.

the second pic is wrong.

Peace
Buffett


I know the second pic is wrong. I can replace whatever components that test bad myself. I am just going to start with the VR. It says STR30130
 
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