K7000 WG - I wonder what killed it?

SilverDuck

New member
Joined
May 27, 2009
Messages
2,389
Reaction score
18
Location
Minnesota
I have a Killer Instinct 2 machine that worked fine at home. I put it on it's back and hauled it 4 miles to setup on location to make some coins. Once I plugged it in, the screen was all black with one pink-purple glob of color. I turned it off, turned it back on, and it made a LOUD CRACK!!! (LOUD!!!!!), smoke, etc.

The monitor chassis is cooked. A trace on the bottom is blown totally off the board, a fuse is blown, and one of the caps is blown wide open. I tried to discharge the monitor, there was nothing at the anode hole. Nothing.

I shipped the board to Chad at ArcadeCup.

What caused this? Once I get the chassis back, is it safe to plug everything back in? What generally causes a monitor chassis to fry during transport?
 
A loose screw, coin, or some other piece of metal was rolling around in the cabinet and landed under the monitor chassis.

Did the neck of the tube get cracked from the machine laying on it's back?
 
Hmmm....I don't think the neck got damaged...

I mean...it has a cage around it so it wasn't resting on the neckboard or anything. Is this something I need to look at?
 
is it common to break a tube by laying a game down on it's back? Shouldn't the monitor cage and game cabinet pretty much protect the tube?
 
Depends on how the monitor is mounted. If it's sitting on a shelf like in a Defender cabinet and the mounting bolts are a little loose, the monitor might slide back far enough to break the neck, or at least crack the neck board. Another consideration is that grit/dust inside the tube might fall down into the neck and short a color gun out.
 
Should I do anything special before reconnecting the repaired chassis?

As far as the monitor moving, no chance. It was in there nice and tight. It is a Killer Instinct 2 machine and everything is nice and tight.
 
Check over everything on the chassis to make sure everything is connected properly, all fuses are good, and HOT is good and has an insulator.

Then, make sure the yoke is on PROPERLY and hook up the degauss connector before settling it in properly and bolting it down. Hook up the anode cup (discharge first if necessary), the ground wire to the neckboard, the neckboard, the video input connector, and the power connector, then turn it on and hope...
 
Back
Top Bottom