K7000 Verticle Collapse Question

dieseldogpi

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OK. I've searched and have posted a while back. I'm bringing back the issue as now I have tuime to mess around. I did the cap kit, replaced the IC3, still just a horizontal line across the screen. I desoldered R101 and I have 2 questions. It looks like whatever was there has been burnt up, there is no sign of anything under the solder. How do I rebuild this? I got a crappy pic with my cell phone as my regular digital camera sucks. You can see the brown hole in basically the center of the pic. That is the area in questions. Note the small section of wire. Is that the previous owners attempt at rebuilding the trace? Second question is I checked the resistor itself. I'm getting a reading of 6.2 ohms. The list in the manual says 6.8ohms. Is this enough of a discrepancy to warrant replacing the resistor? What is an acceptable range? Thanks for all the help guys.

Board.jpg
 
It will change over time, and as youve found the resistance actually lowers over time, causing it to run hotter and hotter.

FOr now for testing, its ok but if you plan to keep this long term just replace it.
DO you not have any other k7000s to look at?

Besically youll want to scrape back the green mask on whats left of the traces, then rebuild the traces using cap lead or wire, etc. My personal favorite thing to rebuild traces is desoldering braid. Its nice and fat and works well.

OK. I've searched and have posted a while back. I'm bringing back the issue as now I have tuime to mess around. I did the cap kit, replaced the IC3, still just a horizontal line across the screen. I desoldered R101 and I have 2 questions. It looks like whatever was there has been burnt up, there is no sign of anything under the solder. How do I rebuild this? I got a crappy pic with my cell phone as my regular digital camera sucks. You can see the brown hole in basically the center of the pic. That is the area in questions. Note the small section of wire. Is that the previous owners attempt at rebuilding the trace? Second question is I checked the resistor itself. I'm getting a reading of 6.2 ohms. The list in the manual says 6.8ohms. Is this enough of a discrepancy to warrant replacing the resistor? What is an acceptable range? Thanks for all the help guys.

Board.jpg
 
I don't have any other K7000 to look at. So that wire that is angled slightly down from the picture, that was connected to the old hole. that was an attempt at rebuilding the trace? How much do I scrape away. Is there a quick video I can see on rebuilding the trace? I have a whole roll of de-soldering braid, do I tin the braid at all, or just solder the braid in place. And to be clear, the braid will go from the old missing trace, to the other post where the wire is soldered to? Thanks again for all the info. I'm doing the best I can to muddle through this stuff.

Also, should I do the same for the "fix" to the left of the problem? Thats the other post of the R101 resistor. It seems like part of the green plastic is peeling away from the board. Hoping this is the problem.

On a final note, is there anything that can be done about the deteriorating R101? If I replace it, it will just run hot and burn up again, no? Anything that can be done to stop the problem?
 
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If it get time tonight i will pull a k7000 chassis and take a pic, highlight it so show you what all should be hooked to each other if that makes sence..

do me a favor and pm me just as a reminder so i dont forget.
 
Here we go. I did a little redneck windows paint highlighting.. big dots are where you really need to check the solder connections well. red is just following thr trace to better help you see where stuff should be connecting.

As you can see this was one of my early repair failures lol this is a junk donor chassis so be easy on my soldering skills.. im much better now i promise..

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NO! theres old used desoldering braid under there.. You have to use desoldering braid, wire, or cap lead , something besided just solder to really reinforce those traces.
 
Not yet...I plan on messing with it tonight, been too busy with work and stuff. I have a feeling this area is not issue, but we will see. I will keep you posted.
 
OK, before I throw this thing in the trash, I'm gonna give it another go at fixing it. Somebody else mentioned that the it could be broken solder points on the yoke plug. Checking it out, there doesn't seem to be a problem there. Another thing I noticed, there is an old remote board attached to this thing, with black level, vert position, vert size, and horizontal position. On the main board itself there are adjustments forHoriz Hold, Vert Size, Vert Hold, Bright, contrast, and that little screw driver adjusted one. Why the hell are there two vert size pots? I'm guessing this wouldn't be the problem though now would it. What the hell else could it be.

Also, there is a very small board that has been by-passed or something. See the picture below:

IMG_1874.jpg

Of course my camera sucks, but the board is a P609 board on the right side of the pic. It looks like wires were soldered into three spots (P1, P2, and P3) at some point, but were cut now. Nothing is conected to this board. Is this an issue?

If i can't fix it, I think i need to smash it with a hammer....it's too personal at this point just to let this thing slide. I do appreciate everyone's help so far...
 
If i can't fix it, I think i need to smash it with a hammer....it's too personal at this point just to let this thing slide. I do appreciate everyone's help so far...

There's plenty of folks you could send it to if need be.

I wouldn't worry about that little P609 board. They were some sort of pincushion compensation thingy if I recall. (most K7000's do not have them anyways)
 
I know I can send it out, but I don't even know if the tube is ok. and I would be pretty annoyed if i spent money on the chassis, and it turned out a bunch of other crap was bad. Also, could the flyback cause this? NOw that I am looking at this I do notice a crack in it.
What abot the double vert size pots? would that cause any problems?
 
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