K7000 turns on if I push on flyback.

Ericthegreat

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So did a cap kit, resoldered r101, nothing helped, finally ness with the flyback, got a little shock and the monitor came on, I now notice if I push on the flyback the monitor comes on, do you guys think it's a bad flyback, or just bad joints?
 
Eric the Great needs to be Eric the Careful, or he'll be Eric the Deceased.

It sounds like a cold solder joint but it could be a bad flyback. Reflow it and the headers while you have it out, inspect it for any other cold joints.
 
Eric the Great needs to be Eric the Careful, or he'll be Eric the Deceased.

It sounds like a cold solder joint but it could be a bad flyback. Reflow it and the headers while you have it out, inspect it for any other cold joints.

Reflowed anything that looked bad in anyway, might just replace it. It has actully been on for a bit now, will it damage anything if I leave it like this for now? Also it makes a ticking noise.
 
even though flybacks don't move I've seen it enough times where the solder joints go dry on the flyback pins. if you know how to identify bad solder it will stick out to you. I always remove the old solder and lay down new when I go through any monitor.

in accordance with the K7000 flowchart, you should see what the B+ is as the very first step if you have a monitor that doesn't power up. if it's 160V or 0V will make a big difference. the flowchart will explain this to you.

if you do have a 0V condition I would say the flyback is probably bad. you should inspect for cracks. your approach to making the monitor turn on comes off very strange to me, I've never done that before and know nobody else that has either. so it certainly sounds bad.

if that's over your head though then I don't know, maybe the monitor thing isn't for you. the K7000 is a very ideal model to learn on, I mentioned somewhere recently I think that's how I learned how to read schematics.
 
even though flybacks don't move I've seen it enough times where the solder joints go dry on the flyback pins. if you know how to identify bad solder it will stick out to you. I always remove the old solder and lay down new when I go through any monitor.

in accordance with the K7000 flowchart, you should see what the B+ is as the very first step if you have a monitor that doesn't power up. if it's 160V or 0V will make a big difference. the flowchart will explain this to you.

if you do have a 0V condition I would say the flyback is probably bad. you should inspect for cracks. your approach to making the monitor turn on comes off very strange to me, I've never done that before and know nobody else that has either. so it certainly sounds bad.

if that's over your head though then I don't know, maybe the monitor thing isn't for you. the K7000 is a very ideal model to learn on, I mentioned somewhere recently I think that's how I learned how to read schematics.

B+ is 164(why I went through everything else first), I put a little new solder on the flyback as it looked bad, I might just remove all the old crud and resolder it. I'm guessing it must be an issue with the flyback though, don't you think?
 
B+ is 164(why I went through everything else first), I put a little new solder on the flyback as it looked bad, I might just remove all the old crud and resolder it. I'm guessing it must be an issue with the flyback though, don't you think?

NEVER add solder. you MUST remove old solder and apply new solder when reflowing solder otherwise you can create new problems. watch the video on reflowing solder correctly.

https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/tech-help/videos/
 
lol, I said that. :) my Hakko doesn't like sucking old solder, have to add new solder first.

the idea I guess is mixing multiple kinds of solder will do more harm than good.

that too but also mixing all the surface contaminants into the solder
 
that too but also mixing all the surface contaminants into the solder

that's why I often wash those in the sink. or in the very least clean the surface area first. when it's got a bunch of dust fur on it, yeah, not good.

there's a method to my madness, and how I do it works because they don't break after I'm done. you may have heard the statistic that 80% of all video game failures are monitors. probably so back in the old days where you PNL repaired stuff, but not now.
 
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