Unfortunately I don't think there is an official fix. The Neo Geo is supposed to be notorious for having this curl with a K7000 too. In fact I think mine did that when I had one.
K7000 Top Curl (partial) tough one!
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That's a major bummer to hear. 
I didn't cap this monitor yet. The picture is great except the top. It's literally exactly the same as the OP. His photos could be of my monitor. I tried adjusting the 50/60k pot, no help.
I read some about the Crit Safety Cap. Could that be the cause? Should I just cap this bad boy?
I didn't cap this monitor yet. The picture is great except the top. It's literally exactly the same as the OP. His photos could be of my monitor. I tried adjusting the 50/60k pot, no help.
I read some about the Crit Safety Cap. Could that be the cause? Should I just cap this bad boy?
OP
OP
FYI, I spent way too much time and I had to eventually just swap the monitor. I'm sure it could be used in another game and probably work just fine but in this one NG!
I noticed the curve actually gets a little teeny tiny bit better after the game has been on for awhile. I wonder if this is the caps on mine. Also, did you guys replace that crit safety cap?
I've never had to replace that cap on a K7000 myself, but I've been looking at possibly doing it. I have a few K7000's with very faint jail bars on the left side even after a cap kit. I was thinking of trying the 5 or so remaining caps, including that critical safety cap just to see if it helps at all.
mecha
Well-known member
on my blown K7000 I had to change the CSC and the jailbars on the left side prior to blowing up the chassis was just 1 line, now it's 3. of course I had to replace the traces that got nuked on the one half of C36, I'm wondering if that had something to do with it.
I never changed the filter cap, I have HUGE blooming issues with that monitor whenever I do Akuma's raging demon super where the whole screen turns white. in all fairness, I never bothered testing/adjusting the B+ on it either. I have to read up on how to do it on the K7000.
I've seen lots of Neo's do this out of the box BRAND NEW! At some point they started putting Kortek's in them and the curl went away.
Yeah, I have a Neo Geo on location and it also suffers from the same curl with a 49xx monitor too.
I fixed a dead chassis for a guy on the Neo forums. It worked perfectly in my cab but when he installed it on his tube in his cabinet it did the same thing. Tried a bunch of things to no avail. I think he might just have to live with it.
Hello, I am bringing this thread back up because I was just experiencing the same issue with a WG 25K7197 in my MK cab, but only after I installed Bob's cap kit and a new fly.
I did the cap kit because it had the jail bars on the left side, but the picture was fine besides that.
Did the surgery very carefully and fired it up. Much to my dismay, it had the dreaded curl at the top. I tried adjusting the pots for a good 30 minutes to no avail. Got on here, did a search for the issue and found this thread. And that even frustrated me! Thinking that if the monitor gurus on here can't find a definitive solution, I'm screwed!! But what really got my goat was that the curl issue only came after I did the cap kit/fly work.
So, basically as last resort, I started reseating stuff. Got to reseating the RGBG sync wires, no change. Then, pissed, I pulled the single snyc (vertical I think) off while machine was running, checked it, no pic obviously, but magically, after I plugged it back in, the bloody curl WAS GONE!!!!!!!!!!
Gone for good me thinks too, as I have powered it on and off a few times and it has now been running for around 3 hours.
Who knows if it will work for anyone else, but I figured I tell the story anyway; never know..
I have attached before and after pics. The picture is simply amazing now!
I did the cap kit because it had the jail bars on the left side, but the picture was fine besides that.
Did the surgery very carefully and fired it up. Much to my dismay, it had the dreaded curl at the top.
I tried adjusting the pots for a good 30 minutes to no avail. Got on here, did a search for the issue and found this thread. And that even frustrated me! Thinking that if the monitor gurus on here can't find a definitive solution, I'm screwed!! But what really got my goat was that the curl issue only came after I did the cap kit/fly work.So, basically as last resort, I started reseating stuff. Got to reseating the RGBG sync wires, no change. Then, pissed, I pulled the single snyc (vertical I think) off while machine was running, checked it, no pic obviously, but magically, after I plugged it back in, the bloody curl WAS GONE!!!!!!!!!!
Gone for good me thinks too, as I have powered it on and off a few times and it has now been running for around 3 hours.
Who knows if it will work for anyone else, but I figured I tell the story anyway; never know..
I have attached before and after pics. The picture is simply amazing now!
Attachments
OP
OP
So you saying that you just disconnected the sync but left the RBG and GND connected to the monitor chasis while the game was running?
Then once you reconnected the sync, the curl was gone?!?!
Did you reconnect the sync while the game was running or was the power off?
Jeff
Then once you reconnected the sync, the curl was gone?!?!
Did you reconnect the sync while the game was running or was the power off?
Jeff
Yea, I disconnected and reconnected the single sync wire while the machine was running and indeed, the curl was gone.
I figure that if it happens again, I will reflow the sync header. But I do not know if that is even an issue at this point.
OP
OP
That is very strange but congradulations anyway.....
I'll try it if it happenes to me again, hopefully never.
Jeff
I'll try it if it happenes to me again, hopefully never.
Jeff
Thanx, I do feel fortunate that this did the trick. Honestly I would've gone berzerk had I not been able to fix it because there was no curl before I capped it!
Thanx, I do feel fortunate that this did the trick. Honestly I would've gone berzerk had I not been able to fix it because there was no curl before I capped it!
So, is this permanently fixed? How did you pull the sync wire out? Mine are all on a molex together.
Still working so far, and I am going to put it up for sale soon, so I will test the crap out of the thing before I do.
It is a WG 25K7197 and the sync wire is in a seperate 4 pin molex connector, but it is the only wire in it. The RGBG wires are in a different connector.
