K7000 static, but no neck glow after shorting.

msdstc

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Hey there. Having an issue with my k7000 25" monitor in my Simpsons. There was a transistor on the neck board that was loose. I was looking to resolder whatever was going on and was finagling with it a bit (stupidly). Unfortunately it shorted and the monitor turned off. Pulled the chassis, replaced the popped fuse and transistor and put everything back. Got static when I turned the monitor on, but no neck glow. Was checking the edge connector and wobbling that a bit. It sparked and the neck lit up pretty bright for a second but then turned off. Unplugged it and got the same thing again, static no neck glow. What are the things to run through diagnostics? Hoping the tube isn't blown.
 
Hey there. Having an issue with my k7000 25" monitor in my Simpsons. There was a transistor on the neck board that was loose. I was looking to resolder whatever was going on and was finagling with it a bit (stupidly). Unfortunately it shorted and the monitor turned off. Pulled the chassis, replaced the popped fuse and transistor and put everything back. Got static when I turned the monitor on, but no neck glow. Was checking the edge connector and wobbling that a bit. It sparked and the neck lit up pretty bright for a second but then turned off. Unplugged it and got the same thing again, static no neck glow. What are the things to run through diagnostics? Hoping the tube isn't blown.
I don't know what this means. you mean the JAMMA connection to the game board? what does that have to do with the heater in the tube?
 
I don't know what this means. you mean the JAMMA connection to the game board? what does that have to do with the heater in the tube?

Sorry, the edge where the board inputs video to the chassis. The white one specifically. When I wiggled this I think I might have shorted it to the metal underneath, the neck lit up quickly then went off.
 

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Wiggling the connector where it plugs into the pin header? Not sure how that would cause a short. I'd reflow the pin header on the chassis first and see if that fixes your problem.
 
Wiggling the connector where it plugs into the pin header? Not sure how that would cause a short. I'd reflow the pin header on the chassis first and see if that fixes your problem.

I think I flexed the board and it touched the metal below possibly? I'm not really sure. I pulled the chassis and checked for continuity on all the pins and it all looks good.
 
I'd still recommend reflowing the pin header. Checking for continuity is one thing but the solder joints do crack there, which will give you intermittent symptoms (like working when you wiggle the wires, etc).
 
I'll give it a shot. I'm worried I might've killed the tube with whatever happened there when the glow turned on brighter than usual for a split second. Any way to test it? I don't see anything noticeable just taking a peek at it.
 
I think I flexed the board and it touched the metal below possibly? I'm not really sure. I pulled the chassis and checked for continuity on all the pins and it all looks good.
it looks like you don't even have the deflection board screwed in. rookie mistake. ask me how I know. lol though I've never done it with a K7000 before.
 
it looks like you don't even have the deflection board screwed in. rookie mistake. ask me how I know. lol though I've never done it with a K7000 before.

I do this from time to time when testing. Would that make it not turn on? I don't remember that being an issue in the past.

Edit- oh whoops the picture you're looking at is from when I pulled the chassis I was taking photos to remember how everything was oriented. In this case I had the chassis on the screw holes so it wasn't metal on metal, although I think I might have flexed the that pin out enough to short it.
 
I do this from time to time when testing. Would that make it not turn on? I don't remember that being an issue in the past.

Edit- oh whoops the picture you're looking at is from when I pulled the chassis I was taking photos to remember how everything was oriented. In this case I had the chassis on the screw holes so it wasn't metal on metal, although I think I might have flexed the that pin out enough to short it.
you would have to apply Herculean pressure to get that to flex from that corner of the board
 
you would have to apply Herculean pressure to get that to flex from that corner of the board

Hmm idk I got no other ideas. What are some things I could check otherwise? Is the tube fried now? Which resistors on the neck board should I check since that's where this all started with the transistor.
 
Hmm idk I got no other ideas. What are some things I could check otherwise? Is the tube fried now? Which resistors on the neck board should I check since that's where this all started with the transistor.
R213 is where the heater voltage enters, then goes to ground. you can trace to the 2 heater pins of the neck socket and measure AC voltage at the pads.

resistor should be 1.2 ohm. I haven't seen it in a very long time but make sure the solder connections are good to it
 
R213 is where the heater voltage enters, then goes to ground. you can trace to the 2 heater pins of the neck socket and measure AC voltage at the pads.

resistor should be 1.2 ohm. I haven't seen it in a very long time but make sure the solder connections are good to it

Thanks a ton I'll try that now. I reflowed the other pins and no luck. Is there a way to test the tube itself?
 
Also am I blind? I read r213 elsewhere as well but I only have r212 and 214 on here.
 

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you only have 1 ground wire to the neckboard. there should be a wire from the ground strap of the tube and another that connects to the heatsink wall on the deflection board.
 
you only have 1 ground wire to the neckboard. there should be a wire from the ground strap of the tube and another that connects to the heatsink wall on the deflection board.

Yeah it just popped off I'm stripping and reconnecting now.
 
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