K7000 recapped no power

That is the B+ voltage regulator. There are 4 voltage regulators that can be used in the chassis 3123, 3130, 30123 and 30130.

If it was not soldered, you need to make sure it was the correct one for that pcb configuration. There are some jumper links to change between the 4pin and 5 pin versions. There are jumpers on the schematic that show the correct jumper settings for each one.
all i know is it looks old so i will leave it un soldered
 
Um... it's not going to work with the VR un soldered. You're going to have to deal with that issue.
it was working without it some how before i recapped it, when i removed the board i noticed it was not soldered in and thought it was strange
 
it was working without it some how before i recapped it, when i removed the board i noticed it was not soldered in and thought it was strange

I can't comment on why it worked. Quite surprising actually.. All I can tell you is you need to verify that the regulator is the correct part, is working, and soldered in for the monitor to work properly.
 
Maybe it just happened to be touching the pads "sufficiently" to work previously and the process of moving it around broke contact? The VR absolutely needs to be in circuit and solidly soldered to the board!
 
I can't comment on why it worked. Quite surprising actually.. All I can tell you is you need to verify that the regulator is the correct part, is working, and soldered in for the monitor to work properly.
i have gone ahead and soldered it in but the pads looked like they had no solder on like ever, this could be original to the board
 
No cause if I do that I won't learn, anyway I think either the fly back or hot is bad since I am still not getting any neck glow
Your asking us?

Here is the picture you posted early on with it soldered in (Voltage Regulator highlighted in red).
View attachment 803613
i am past that now, is there a 3d printable k7000 neck guide? this one is currently missing
 
if the HOT was shorted the fuse would be blown. does it make any sound at all when you turn it on?
 
if the HOT was shorted the fuse would be blown. does it make any sound at all when you turn it on?
honestly its hard to tell with the sounds of all the other games in the arcade plus whatever gamee is installed in the cab
 
honestly its hard to tell with the sounds of all the other games in the arcade plus whatever gamee is installed in the cab
my job is aggravating with the noise. they put all the most annoying games in the place right outside the work room. if I have to test monitors forget it, I'm not hearing it.
 
No cause if I do that I won't learn, anyway I think either the fly back or hot is bad since I am still not getting any neck glow

i am past that now, is there a 3d printable k7000 neck guide? this one is currently missing
Thingiverse has one for the CR-23 (fat neck) that works with 25" tubes. If you need a CR-31 for a 19" I haven't seen one of those modeled. I was thinking at some point about either trying to scale the CR-23 one or remix it. I have printed and used the CR-23 version successfully.
 
Thingiverse has one for the CR-23 (fat neck) that works with 25" tubes. If you need a CR-31 for a 19" I haven't seen one of those modeled. I was thinking at some point about either trying to scale the CR-23 one or remix it. I have printed and used the CR-23 version successfully.
I only saw one for thin neck tube and not fat neck
 
The picture you posted of the solder side. At the bottom right corner there seems to be 2 holes that looked like something should be there???

I would reflow all the caps you installed and run jumpers to the once that don't ohm out right. If that doesn't help you need to stat troubleshooting. Do you have Randy's flow chart?

one trick I use to find broken joints, power up the monitor and use a nonconductive stick (wood or plastic) and press on the chassis at different spots to see if it jumps to life. If you find a spot, touch up all solder spots in the area.
 
The picture you posted of the solder side. At the bottom right corner there seems to be 2 holes that looked like something should be there???

I would reflow all the caps you installed and run jumpers to the once that don't ohm out right. If that doesn't help you need to stat troubleshooting. Do you have Randy's flow chart?

one trick I use to find broken joints, power up the monitor and use a nonconductive stick (wood or plastic) and press on the chassis at different spots to see if it jumps to life. If you find a spot, touch up all solder spots in the area.
Looking at images of other boards like mine they are missing something there as well, as for poking around cannot do that due to how the board is mounted once in the cab
 
Thingiverse has one for the CR-23 (fat neck) that works with 25" tubes. If you need a CR-31 for a 19" I haven't seen one of those modeled. I was thinking at some point about either trying to scale the CR-23 one or remix it. I have printed and used the CR-23 version successfully.
Here is how The one I am working on looks like
 

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Here is how The one I am working on looks like
It looks like the pin guide came off the tube and is stuck in the neck socket. Can you gently remove it? Maybe it's intact and it's just the sealant that was holding it to the tube that gave way. If not, then you'll want to find/make a new one.

Here is the one I printed from Thingiverse for a CR-23 (fat neck) next to a 19" K7000 with a CR-31 skinny neck. They look similar but the 3D printed one is absolutely too big for that tube neck. It will fit a 25" (what I printed it for) or a fat neck 19".

IMG_5087.jpeg
 
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