K7000 recapped no power

Standard multimeter to take measurements in circuit and check if they are within spec. If they are out of spec, remove them (or one end) and check again before replacing as reading may be affected by something in circuit.

Had a quick look at the solder side pic. PCB appears in pretty good shape overall. Someone has gone over it already and there are some bodge wires added to join some pads. Several solder joints look like they need addressing.
yeah some one before me seems to have replaced some caps in the past and lifted some pads which i have bodged with some wire even know they tested fine, i did look for any cracked solder joints and fixed any i found, most of the items on the bottom except for my bodges i have seen on other boards in pictures here on the forum so i am assuming most of those might be from the factory,

saturday i plan to fix some of the wiring in the cab as some of the wires are broken, one of which it seems someone cut and tried to solder it but didnt do a good job, a second ground wire on the right side was also cut down for some reason in the past and i plan to fix it and a wire came out of one of the connector in the same area when i was removing the board to bring home, ordered a crimp tool to fix that one properly
 
okay so i went and grabbed the whole board and brought it home to look over it and fixed a couple of caps that wasnt sitting flat, fixed a solder bridge and one broken pad, also does anyone know if the two pads in the blue square are supposed to be connected to each other?
extreme bottom edge of your picture, just right of center there is a trace with 5 solder pads in a row = the large sand resistor joint (with the big legs) has cold solder.
 
also does anyone know if the two pads in the blue square are supposed to be connected to each other?

The top of the PCB has the traces printed on them in green ink. You can use that to determine what is connected to what.

what tool would be good for that? a standard multimeter or something else?

As someone mentioned. A decent quality multi-meter is what you need. You don't need to break the bank but don't go totally low budget. When testing some of the resistors you'll need to un-solder or "lift" one leg to get an accurate measurement.
 
The top of the PCB has the traces printed on them in green ink. You can use that to determine what is connected to what.



As someone mentioned. A decent quality multi-meter is what you need. You don't need to break the bank but don't go totally low budget. When testing some of the resistors you'll need to un-solder or "lift" one leg to get an accurate measurement.
cant tell when i cant see the trace under the pad
 
Now your just being practical ;) Also assumes the person is good at reading and understanding schematics :unsure::confused2::dunno::help:. I think the manual also has an image of the pcb top side, so that could also be referenced.

This particular K7000 manual does not (just component placement) but my old memory says there is one out there that does just can't locate it.

WG 4900 manuals do show an image of the board layout but that's clearly not helpful here.
 
these are all not good. add solder, completely remove old solder, new solder. I employ a lot of dremel wire brush here to knock all that charcoal flux garbage off

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Remember this was working before a cap kit. Making it more reliable is one thing (and a good thing), but only since the cap kit is it dead.

There is clearly something amiss but not everything is that bad that it is going to stop it from still working.

Things like doing a light bulb test of B+ with hot removed come to mind.
 
Remember this was working before a cap kit. Making it more reliable is one thing (and a good thing), but only since the cap kit is it dead.

There is clearly something amiss but not everything is that bad that it is going to stop it from still working.

Things like doing a light bulb test of B+ with hot removed come to mind.
i have since but in some bodge wires for some lifted pads and fixed one solder bridge, the pads that are lifted are in bad shape, hopefully this and fixing the wireing in the cab will fix it and get it working but will probably let the owner know to keep an eye ouut for another chassis
 

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They are standard connectors and pins. Those ones you listed are not the correct ones, not sure if they would "work".

Those pins don't carry any current, so unless they are damaged, they should be ok. I will look up some part numbers but APAR and Digikey have them.
 
They are standard connectors and pins. Those ones you listed are not the correct ones, not sure if they would "work".

Those pins don't carry any current, so unless they are damaged, they should be ok. I will look up some part numbers but APAR and Digikey have them.
i added an edit on there saying i found the correct ones and that i have ordered tthem
.156 molex
yup i linked to some above
 
hey all i almost completely forgot, does anyone know what the part in the red square is? it was not soldered to the board and i couldnt tell if it was like that from the factory or iif someonee in the past did that
 

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That is the B+ voltage regulator. There are 4 voltage regulators that can be used in the chassis 3123, 3130, 30123 and 30130.

If it was not soldered, you need to make sure it was the correct one for that pcb configuration. There are some jumper links to change between the 4pin and 5 pin versions. There are jumpers on the schematic that show the correct jumper settings for each one.
 
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