K7000 Problem - Flyback and general question

Wiz

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Hello, I am having problems with the image on a 25" K7000 periodically going out, leaving the game playing blind. Sometimes the image will come back after a period of time, but not always. I figured the monitor could use a cap kit regardless, so I started with that. I swapped them all out, and turned it back on, and the game came on with the colors looking good. It played for a bit and then, what do you know, the image went out again. A friend told me that it could be the flyback based on the symptom, so I attempted to change that tonight (first time for me). I took the old one out and noticed that it was slightly different than my replacement. In particular, the old flyback had a retaining screw through a metal frame of sorts holding it in place. This screw went into the top of the flyback if you were looking at the Focus and Screen knobs. My new flyback has the threads for that same type of retaining screw facing the same direction as the Focus and Screen knobs, so I basically can't screw the retaining screw into it to help keep it in place. It also says TFL09-04 3X10 on the front, which seems a little odd.

o.k- so here are my questions:

1) Will this flyback work on a 25" K7000? I was told it was for this particular monitor and the part number is 053X0528-001, although it has the funky "TLF09-04 3X10" on the front of it. Does it matter if the retaining screw threads are facing a different way?

2) Is this type of problem typically due to a faulty flyback?

Thanks for any help you can provide, I just don't want to put the wrong flyback in there given where the retaining screw placement is on the new flyback.
 
1) If your new flyback also has the 053X0528-001 label on it, then it is the proper replacement. The new ones don't usually have the screw hole like the old ones did, so don't worry about it. If your new flyback doesn't have the proper label #, where did you get it from?

2) It's possible that your problem MIGHT be flyback related, especially if the original had white knobs (which should always be replaced during a rebuild to save later headaches). But that problem can also be caused by cold solder joints, or heat-related failures that cause HV shutdown...
 
Thanks for the reply. I purchased it from a guy on ebay as a flyback for a 25" k7000 and part number 053X0528-001. It appears to be the right flyback and now that I am looking at it again there is a partial label on another side that was covered in funk and it looks like it has the correct part number on it, or at least most of it due to the label not being complete. The old one also has black knobs, so perhaps it is cold solder joints. What is the best way to test for them or are there certain solder joints that would most likely be the culprit if that is the source of the problem?
 
Use your well calibrated eyeball to look for solder joints that have "rings" in them. Those rings are cracks.
 
or do what I did on my K7000 that would shut off -- just hit them all. lol

you might even have the same problem I had in my Street Fighter, the resistor in the heater circuit might have cold solder. I seriously just reflowed every joint on the neckboard and it's worked fine, my neckboard actually has a partial crack in it too, right along the neck socket, so it's kind of a pain in the ass to work with.
 
Use your well calibrated eyeball to look for solder joints that have "rings" in them. Those rings are cracks.

Thanks, I will definitely look for cracks, I was not sure if "cold" meant that they looked fine but weren't passing current.

or do what I did on my K7000 that would shut off -- just hit them all. lol

you might even have the same problem I had in my Street Fighter, the resistor in the heater circuit might have cold solder. I seriously just reflowed every joint on the neckboard and it's worked fine, my neckboard actually has a partial crack in it too, right along the neck socket, so it's kind of a pain in the ass to work with.

It is funny you mention that, as mine has a crack in virtually the same place. I will reflow them all as well. I actually have two of these monitors and they both are doing the same thing - ugh! Hopefully reflowing them will fix it. Since I already pulled the old flyback and added the correct tip to the red wire, I will put the new one in. Hopefully this will make it last for a long time to come.

Thanks for the tips guys!
 
I kinda tried desoldering stuff hoping I could maybe straighten the cracked part out, but it wouldn't budge. now I just don't mess with it, cause it works. lol

focus especially on the neck socket, and there's a resistor that's inline with a couple neck pins (the heater circuit)

if by any chance when it turns off, and you have no neck glow, and you can tap the metal frame and it comes back on, it's definitely a solder joint issue. I just globbed the hell out of the solder on the socket pins, cause the cracks enlarged the holes. there's actually one pin that's only half-full of solder, it's funny. I think I had a couple pads lift there too, I'm still not entirely sure how I pulled it off, but I did.
 
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