K7000 P447 is this veritical collapse?

[boy141]

19" K7000

Initially the tube was not displaying anything. Saw a few busted caps. Did a capkit.

Tiny cracks on the front of the flyback for it's age. No arcing. Put the game back into the arcade.

3 days later this mess. On the verge of Vertical Collapse? Switchout IC3?

 

[alggamer]

It's trying to collapse. Try looking for bad solder joints first. Eliminate the easy stuff first.

 

[mecha]

check V. Hold pot also, it's probably a faint break and the sound could be vibrating it in and out

 

[tstone]

I like it as it is.

Polybius II?

 

[mecha]

I like it as it is.

Polybius II?

it's funny I discovered the Outrun at work monitor has never been graced with my magic touch

 

[boy141]

Update
Reflowed Yoke connectors and headers. Replaced D18 cause it looked terrible.

NO NECKGLOW.

Fuse isn't blown.
B+ from the blue wire side is 170V.
B+ is measuring 200 ohms

 

[mecha]

that's shutdown.

what else did you do?

 

[boy141]

Hey Mecha. Looking back at my notes -
Reflowed yoke connectors
Reflowed header pins
Reflowed vPos pot
changed out D18. D18 black band is facing away from the metal heatsink.

D19, D20, D21, D22, D23, D24 not open. Reads between 46. and .52 in diode mode.
C38 isn't open.
Critical safety cap in diode mode reads .46 in diode mode.
Regulator at pins 1 and 4 reads 198 ohms
B+ (without load runs) 198 ohms
HOT is at .46 in diode mode
R101 is not open
r102 is 47.5k ohms
r98 is .5 ohms
r99 is .5 ohms

r97 is 271 ohms

r89 is 3.9 ohms
r104 is 15 ohms
r103 is 3 ohms

 

[mecha]

Hey Mecha. Looking back at my notes -
Reflowed yoke connectors
Reflowed header pins
Reflowed vPos pot
changed out D18. D18 black band is facing away from the metal heatsink.

D19, D20, D21, D22, D23, D24 not open. Reads between 46. and .52 in diode mode.
C38 isn't open.
Critical safety cap in diode mode reads .46 in diode mode.
Regulator at pins 1 and 4 reads 198 ohms
B+ (without load runs) 198 ohms
HOT is at .46 in diode mode
R101 is not open
r102 is 47.5k ohms
r98 is .5 ohms
r99 is .5 ohms

r97 is 271 ohms

r89 is 3.9 ohms
r104 is 15 ohms
r103 is 3 ohms

in my past experience of mucking with K7000s and suddenly they don't work again, it's a bad connection on R101, which is usually on the C23/IC2 side. it's why I sand open the traces and fold the + legs of C57 and C23 into them and wrap around the legs of R101 to prevent that from happening again.

 

[boy141]

FYI D13 is reading .44 in diode mode and not open.

 

[PinFixin]

Check caps around vertical IC. You have a bad connection somewhere. This is not vertical collapse, and monitors don't "try to collapse". It's possible it could be the yoke also, or yoke connector. However you've said you have reflowed and looked at that area.

 

[boy141]

Check caps around vertical IC. You have a bad connection somewhere. This is not vertical collapse, and monitors don't "try to collapse". It's possible it could be the yoke also, or yoke connector. However you've said you have reflowed and looked at that area.

but now I don't have neckglow after switching out D18. I'm going to do the lightbulb test today to see if I have good power. See if the issue is the power side or the horizontal output side.

Be a good video for @zenomorp on his Youtube saying "This chassis had some work done to it. It's been capped and D18 changed out. Has the right fuse. Diodes, regulator, and resistors checked out. Still has the original flyback with a tiny crack on the face. Even did my R101 mod. But won't power on. We'll going to diagnose the entire horizonal output side and see why it won't boot up." Followed by "Glorious!" when he fixed the chassis after his diagnosis.

 

[mecha]

but now I don't have neckglow after switching out D18. I'm going to do the lightbulb test today to see if I have good power. See if the issue is the power side or the horizontal output side.

Be a good video for @zenomorp on his Youtube saying "This chassis had some work done to it. It's been capped and D18 changed out. Has the right fuse. Diodes, regulator, and resistors checked out. Still has the original flyback with a tiny crack on the face. Even did my R101 mod. But won't power on. We'll going to diagnose the entire horizonal output side and see why it won't boot up." Followed by "Glorious!" when he fixed the chassis after his diagnosis.

I said V. Hold pot. not V. Pos

 

[zenomorp]

but now I don't have neckglow after switching out D18. I'm going to do the lightbulb test today to see if I have good power. See if the issue is the power side or the horizontal output side.

Be a good video for @zenomorp on his Youtube saying "This chassis had some work done to it. It's been capped and D18 changed out. Has the right fuse. Diodes, regulator, and resistors checked out. Still has the original flyback with a tiny crack on the face. Even did my R101 mod. But won't power on. We'll going to diagnose the entire horizonal output side and see why it won't boot up." Followed by "Glorious!" when he fixed the chassis after his diagnosis.

Make sure your horizontal yoke header pin pad(s) aren't broken and have continuity to the traces to and from them. Simply reflowing D18 won't cause it to go from working to no heater voltage.

 

[PinFixin]

I wonder if it's a flyback issue the secondary side of the flyback provides the voltage for the heater do you have any high voltage at all even for a split second when you turn the game on

 

[boy141]

I wonder if it's a flyback issue the secondary side of the flyback provides the voltage for the heater do you have any high voltage at all even for a split second when you turn the game on

I wonder that myself. I just wish there was a way to test these flybacks without sacrificing HOTs. But when i power on the device, no static. The B+ is way too high.

 

[gutz]

Make sure your horizontal yoke header pin pad(s) aren't broken and have continuity to the traces to and from them. Simply reflowing D18 won't cause it to go from working to no heater voltage.

This. You vaporized the header traces when you reflowed and replaced d18. The traces get easily get damaged when the yoke connector gets resistance and heats up, burning the housing/connectors/pins/traces. I've seen it several times.

 

[PinFixin]

If you take a clear high resolution photo of the front and the back of the board we can take a look and see if there is any areas that need reflowing

 

[boy141]

Flyback

 

[boy141]

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