K7000 or G07

Matt68061

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Hello...I have a Ms Pac cabaret I am just finishing... Have the option to pic up either a K7000 or GO7 monitor.. Both have been refurbished and look very nice... I have a GO7 in a Pac cabaret and it seems pretty solid.

The GO7 is a bit more in cost...not anything that would scare me away...

Just wondering if there is anything some of you more experienced folks know that I should be aware of when making my choice.

I will be running a Jamma multi until I acquire a dedicated PCB with the ultimate goal of adding Mikes 96-1.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Matt
 
original would be g07-FBO on the pac not the k7000. both are good monitors but the k7000 i think would give you a better image/color, etc. and be easier to work with a multi board.
 
Yes...

They are both 13's...

Thanks for the replys... Keep em coming.
 
Both are good monitors. However the K7000 will be the easier one to get parts for. The GO7's flyback for the 13" is obsolete. The 19" flyback will work. However I believe there are a few parts that will need to be changed to get the horizontal size correct.
 
K7000. TV tube drop in compatibility is very high if you want a burn free monitor. G07 not so much without a yoke swap and even then questionable.
 
Is there a list of the TV tubes that will work well with the K7000 chassis? That seems to be a major advantage as finding arcade monitor CRT tubes is very hard to do and if an old CRT TV can be used with the K7000 - that is a major advantage to me.
How difficult is it to do the TV swap with the K7000 chassis from a technical aspect?
 
19" and 25" are easy to find. 13" tubes are harder to find. Tube swaps are easy as long as the new deflection yoke is compatible with the chassis. If not, they can be quite difficult.
 
Thank you

This is exactly the kind of info I was wanting to find out. Appreciate all who responded.
 
I personally love the g07 but some consider it a pain in the ass to work on. I'm not very familiar with the 7000's but tube capabilities are huge.
 
19" and 25" are easy to find. 13" tubes are harder to find. Tube swaps are easy as long as the new deflection yoke is compatible with the chassis. If not, they can be quite difficult.

Maybe it's a regional thing, but any 1990s or later 13" TV I've cracked open has had a CR-31 tube & I've used them on 13" K7000s and K4800s. I've tried the 13" TV yokes a couple times, but gave up, none of them were any good & I got a much too narrow image. Swapping the original yoke over produces excellent results.

The 19" flyback works fine on the G07 and you don't have to change anything else out. The smaller monitor uses a different HOT, so make sure you have the correct part if you rebuild yours.

As for the original post, you should go with the G07 and sell me the K7000.
 
Maybe it's a regional thing, but any 1990s or later 13" TV I've cracked open has had a CR-31 tube & I've used them on 13" K7000s and K4800s. I've tried the 13" TV yokes a couple times, but gave up, none of them were any good & I got a much too narrow image. Swapping the original yoke over produces excellent results.

The 19" flyback works fine on the G07 and you don't have to change anything else out. The smaller monitor uses a different HOT, so make sure you have the correct part if you rebuild yours.

As for the original post, you should go with the G07 and sell me the K7000.

I don't think it's regional because that has been my experience here as well. I agree with everything else you said except that he should sell me the K7000.

I think if you ask your friends and family you'll find one or more people have a 13" TV stuck somewhere. I scored 3 just by mentioning it to one person casually.

I think G07's are easy to work on but as far as tube compatibility goes you'll struggle. If you'll never need to swap tubes then it doesn't really matter.
 
Maybe it's a regional thing, but any 1990s or later 13" TV I've cracked open has had a CR-31 tube & I've used them on 13" K7000s and K4800s. I've tried the 13" TV yokes a couple times, but gave up, none of them were any good & I got a much too narrow image. Swapping the original yoke over produces excellent results.

It maybe a regional thing because all I can find here are 19" and 25" tubes. !3" tubes around here seem to have gone the way of the dodo bird. I've looked at pawn shops, Goodwill and Salvation army. Maybe they are getting bought up before I get there. Thank goodness I don't need them. 99.9999% of the stuff I get in is either 19" or 25" monitors.
 
13" tubes are very hard to find here. 19" tubes are becoming more rare as well. I assume it is because they both fit in the trash cans.
25" and larger are readily available for free on craigslist anytime.
 
Do most standard 25" TV tubes work with the K7000 chassis? I imagine there needs to be some compatibility with certain aspects of the tube itself, but curious if there are any particular brands or models that work very well with the K7000 so if I happen to run into any that are throw away items I can save them for a possible tube replacement later. Thanks.
 
Do most standard 25" TV tubes work with the K7000 chassis? I imagine there needs to be some compatibility with certain aspects of the tube itself, but curious if there are any particular brands or models that work very well with the K7000 so if I happen to run into any that are throw away items I can save them for a possible tube replacement later. Thanks.

Every 90s+ 25" TV I've tried has been a direct swap (yoke compatible etc) with 25" K7000.
 
Wow; that's great. That really provides a lot of options for the K7000 chassis. So how difficult is it to do a tube swap with the K7000 and a TV tube? Direct swap meaning take the TV tube out of the TV case and simply swap out the K7000 chassis with the TV tube just like a regular arcade monitor? Or perhaps it is not that easy.
 
The majority of 25" tubes and yokes are what is called a direct drop in as mentioned before. What this means is you remove the old tube from the frame and install the new tube in the frame. You may have to replace the yoke connector. However most times you don't. Connect everything back up, power on and then enjoy your successful tube swap. It is that easy unless you have to do a yoke swap.

Ed
 
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