K7000 on k7400 tube = bloom problems?

Emby6201

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I thought that you could put a k7000 chassis on a k7400 tube, but maybe I am wrong?

I have a k7400 tube (Samsung) that I am using to test a k7000 chassis on. Then I thought about just leaving it, as the picture looks really great and I have no working k7400 spare k7400 chsssis right now.

Chassis had cracked fly and blown HOT so I replaced cap kit, flyback, HOT, and later power reg ic (str3130) when it was doing the below:

When I get bright flashes the pic shrinks for a split second and comes back.

Fir$t I figured replace reg ic, but no change.

Now I figure maybe tbis is because I have a k7400 tube?

I check the b+ and it stays Steady - maybe dips 1v when the bright flashes come up like In the neo geo splash screen etc. this is in a neo dedicated 2 slot, so I mostly notice when screen flashes white like the new geo logo or on the metal slug intro / title screen.

Do I just just match the tube, or is there something maybe wrong on thks chassis?

If it's a mismatch tube / chassis then someone want to trade rebuilt k7000 for a rebuilt k7400 :D
 
What are the yoke measuments on the k7400 tube? Usually picture size would be the only issue you would run into going from one tube to another.
 
In my experience, the K7000 blooms like crazy no matter what you do. It's just the design of the monitor, I believe.

In my Street Fighter cabinet, it would bloom when there was any type of brightness change. So I took out the K7000 and frame and put in a Hantarex Polo chassis/frame in there and now I can't notice any bloom at all on my monitor.
 
The k7000 is known to bloom but from what you posted it seemed to be excessive. If you can get ahold of a working k7000A chassis, they don't bloom.
 
The k7000 is known to bloom but from what you posted it seemed to be excessive. If you can get ahold of a working k7000A chassis, they don't bloom.


dude seriously? just no.

it's probably a filter cap issue. follow the schematic from that and see if anything else is out of tolerance.

I've only ever seen people mate a U2000 with a K7000 tube before, not the other way around. if there was a substantial yoke incompatibility your picture would probably never fill out right. I don't encourage doing this long term.

unfortunately I have no K7400s or otherwise to trade.
 
dude seriously? just no.

it's probably a filter cap issue. follow the schematic from that and see if anything else is out of tolerance.

I've only ever seen people mate a U2000 with a K7000 tube before, not the other way around. if there was a substantial yoke incompatibility your picture would probably never fill out right. I don't encourage doing this long term.

unfortunately I have no K7400s or otherwise to trade.
Thats why I asked what the yoke measuments were. I don't have a k7400 here right now to verify.
 
In my experience, the K7000 blooms like crazy no matter what you do. It's just the design of the monitor, I believe.

In my Street Fighter cabinet, it would bloom when there was any type of brightness change. So I took out the K7000 and frame and put in a Hantarex Polo chassis/frame in there and now I can't notice any bloom at all on my monitor.

Are you saying Hantarex Polo Chassis work with K7000 tubes?

The yoke has these way different connectors and whatnot, so I never wanted to mess with it.
 
Yeah. It worked just fine with mine. Now keep in mind that my K7000 was created from a chassis and a tube/yoke combo I got from an old 25" Television. The tube number in the TV actually matched 100% with a K7000 and with a Hantarex Polo. (A63ADT10X05).

The yoke connectors are different, but I was fortunate in that on my tube's yoke the connectors are actually detachable there. So I was able to take the yoke wires from my Polo chassis and plug them into the yoke on my tube. If your yoke's wires are not un-pluggable, you could snip off the connector that goes into the monitor chassis and splice in the connector from the Polo chassis. I think the only difference is that there is a ground/jumper wire in the Polo yoke connector on the PCB.
 
Okay got a replacement K7400 chassis from another KLOV member - and the bloom problem went away and picture is great. Was sold without knowledge of working, etc - but it works great and looks like it was recently recapped.

Still- i keep getting a "tick" noise every so often, and when it occurs, the picture kinda jumps a little.

The bloom during bright explosions and flashes is gone though.

Anyone know what could be causing the "tick" noise?
 
Double check your anode connection at the tube. If that's all good. Watch the chassis really close with the lights off, it's arching somewhere. Could be the neck board, could be the flyback.
 
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