MonsterBash
Well-known member
So I'm about stumped again on this k7000.
This monitor was in a World Class Bowling when I got it. It worked find when I pulled it about 6 months ago. I have a bad tube (no blue gun) in my area 51 so I was just gonna swap the monitors and be done. I hook up the area 51 and got a weird curvy thing going on at the top of the screen. I try for about an hour to adjust it out with no luck.
So in the process of ordering a cap kit my buddy dumps a couple monitors off my bench and they shatter...one was the k7000. I pick up a donor tube from a Zenith TV with a .5 difference in the H and dead nuts V yoke. The yoke was cracked in the fall.
I capped the monitor and install the donor tube... keep in mind I used the donor tube yoke...I still have the exact same problem before capping and the tube swap. I pulled the chassis again and spent a couple hours at work today touching up solders joint on both the main board and the neck board. I'm fairly confident I have them all but still have the problem. I double checked the correct caps and polarity
I went through the k7000 sticky and RF's flow chart..the closest I get from the flow chart it to replace IC2 'substitute' I ordered IC2 and 3 today which I'm waiting on. (what's the substitute?)
Also.. when the Press start 'icon' flashes off and on...the screen actually jump in unison with the free play flash. I've mess with the 50\60 hz pot also. This chassis does have the remote board for the POTs and does NOT have the 'other' board I've read about. It seems removing this 'other' board fixed almost this exact problem for another klover
When I adjust the width coil I get absolutely no response at the monitor..it does nothing. Strangely when I adjust the 'black' the 'fold' actually changes and will flip the other way..the same when adjusting the contrast. Hooking up the old monitor does not have this problem.
Any ideas if this could be related to the yoke? it just seems strange I would have the same problem before the tube swap..and the yoke would be responsible
ETA B+ is 130 and 145 at each end of the resister and this http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=225434&highlight=k7000 Very close to this issue except I don't have the pin cushion board to remove
This monitor was in a World Class Bowling when I got it. It worked find when I pulled it about 6 months ago. I have a bad tube (no blue gun) in my area 51 so I was just gonna swap the monitors and be done. I hook up the area 51 and got a weird curvy thing going on at the top of the screen. I try for about an hour to adjust it out with no luck.
So in the process of ordering a cap kit my buddy dumps a couple monitors off my bench and they shatter...one was the k7000. I pick up a donor tube from a Zenith TV with a .5 difference in the H and dead nuts V yoke. The yoke was cracked in the fall.
I capped the monitor and install the donor tube... keep in mind I used the donor tube yoke...I still have the exact same problem before capping and the tube swap. I pulled the chassis again and spent a couple hours at work today touching up solders joint on both the main board and the neck board. I'm fairly confident I have them all but still have the problem. I double checked the correct caps and polarity
I went through the k7000 sticky and RF's flow chart..the closest I get from the flow chart it to replace IC2 'substitute' I ordered IC2 and 3 today which I'm waiting on. (what's the substitute?)
Also.. when the Press start 'icon' flashes off and on...the screen actually jump in unison with the free play flash. I've mess with the 50\60 hz pot also. This chassis does have the remote board for the POTs and does NOT have the 'other' board I've read about. It seems removing this 'other' board fixed almost this exact problem for another klover
When I adjust the width coil I get absolutely no response at the monitor..it does nothing. Strangely when I adjust the 'black' the 'fold' actually changes and will flip the other way..the same when adjusting the contrast. Hooking up the old monitor does not have this problem.
Any ideas if this could be related to the yoke? it just seems strange I would have the same problem before the tube swap..and the yoke would be responsible
ETA B+ is 130 and 145 at each end of the resister and this http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=225434&highlight=k7000 Very close to this issue except I don't have the pin cushion board to remove
Attachments
Last edited:
